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Old 09-01-2015, 01:10 AM   #1
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<p>Deezums catch can method, with a little more documentation.</p><p>Order is as follows:</p><p>Intake mani&nbsp;-&gt; 3/8 Hose -&gt; Check valve -&gt; hose -&gt; oil seperator -&gt; hose -&gt; pcv valve -&gt; valve cover</p><p>Start by modifying the oil separator. Basically what you do is take out the bottom drain with a 5/16 allen, and then stick a spring between the plunger and the thing that screws on. I had to cut one to size, you want it strong enough to hold it closed when you try and blow through it, but light enough that you can turn the handle to open the drain.</p><p><img src="http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-144636_deezums_cheap_1_6_tries_go_fast_k79yfbx_6ce 8d2fe59941bfa8b9ea051cd0a164985371d30.jpg" title="" />&nbsp;</p><p>After you modify it you mount it. I made a simple bracket like this:</p><p><a href="http://imgur.com/cO8kgjq" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=148404&amp;dateline=14 41080373" /></a></p><p>Then you route the 3/8 hose. I'm using a straight 1/4 npt to 3/8 hose barb on one side and a 90 degree on the other. Make sure you point the check valve the right way. You want to stop air from moving from the intake manifold to the oil separator. Also make sure you have the in/out ports correct on the separator.</p><p>I'm going to clean this up with some zipties and hose clamps but then were good to go.</p><p><a href="http://imgur.com/57yeJFS" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=148405&amp;dateline=14 41080373" /></a><br /><a href="http://imgur.com/D8q5wip" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=148406&amp;dateline=14 41080373" /></a><br /><a href="http://imgur.com/BchSf3X" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=148407&amp;dateline=14 41080373" /></a></p><p>And here it is doing catch can stuff</p><p><img src="http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-145035_deezums_cheap_1_6_tries_go_fast_4tvjfgy_772 3d1b45ed9d6f5f04b3d56dab139a56a39f4f1.jpg" title="" /><br /><br />Parts:</p><p>Pack of Two 2 3 8" Viton Kynar Standard Check Valves Barb to Barb | eBay</p><p>Husky 1/4 in. Air Compressor Filter-HDA70403AV - The Home Depot</p><p>JEGS Performance Products 15973, JEGS NPT to Hose Fittings & Hose | JEGS Performance Products</p>
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Old 09-01-2015, 02:45 AM   #2
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:15 AM   #3
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Nice use of the compressor oil seperator, I may do the same on my build, does it fill up quickly?

Last edited by sparkybean; 09-01-2015 at 03:16 AM. Reason: Edit: reading comprehension fail
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:19 AM   #4
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Because in my experience pcv valves make sucky check valves.
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:20 AM   #5
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Wrong thread Aiden, though I'd like to make it known I dispute your use of check valve as PCV valve. The Vatozone one is great, if you still pop the dipstick you need to look at opening the valve cover.

I fill it halfway in around 1K miles.

I don't remember if I uploaded this, but it was right near 1K.

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Old 09-01-2015, 11:44 AM   #6
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I just did this myself a month or two ago following a diy catch can article I found online. I also added some copper scrub pad material in the air compressor filter housing to help collect oil. Didnt add check valves and I'm on the factory pcv valve (2001). So check valves are a better idea than the 323 pcv?
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Old 09-01-2015, 04:57 PM   #7
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A check valve is not necessary, the PCV valve is the check valve. This separator works by "slinging" the oil out of the air with centrifugal force. The copper you shoved in there is likely hurting it's performance, certainly limits it's capacity, not something I'd recommend doing.

If you still pop the dipstick with a PCV valve that passes the mouth test you need to look at increasing the flow through the valve cover.

See this thread, lots of good things here.
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...re-test-80353/
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Because in my experience pcv valves make sucky check valves.
You caught my ninja edit...

Would using the check valve and not fitting the PCV valve be a worthwhile option? Tap a brass barb into the valve cover kinda thing
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:25 PM   #9
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<p>Whats the flow on these seperators.</p><p>Thinking about the future. I could easily grab one with 1/2npt ports, stick some 8an hoses on there and vent the **** out of my valve cover.</p>
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:26 PM   #10
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<p>Agree to disagree.</p><p>I got a new PCV valve. dipstick went poppy.</p><p>Added check valve. Dipstick no poppy.</p><p>My pcv valve might have been a shitty one.</p><p>But check valve was like $3</p>
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:33 PM   #11
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Call me convinced.

Intake mani -> 3/8 Hose -> Check valve -> hose -> oil seperator -> hose -> valve cover
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:43 PM   #12
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The flow on these separators is probably measured in CFM, at like 120 PSI, so more than enough for anyone but Aiden

Opening the valve cover should be done no matter what. Just because the dipstick quits popping doesn't mean the block isn't under pressure in high load conditions. Have an extra boost gauge, do some measuring like the videos above.

Did you check the PCV with your mouth, Aiden? If it seals completely how is it causing your dipstick to pop?

A check valve will (likely) have a much higher cracking pressure than a PCV, it won't open as much with the same vaccum. That's the point of a PCV system, the spring and weight of a PCV valve are specifically matched.
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:45 PM   #13
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Whoa whoa wait a second. Are you running a vent from the opposite side of the valve cover? This setup on its own will do bugger all under boost...
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:49 PM   #14
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Yes, a breather on the exhaust side valve cover. There is absolutely nothing that can be done in boost, unless you like burning oil in the exhaust or running an electric vac pump.

If you pop the dipstick in boost and your PCV passes the mouth test you need to enlarge the exhaust side valve cover ports so the blowby has somewhere to go other than your dipstick.

If your PCV is passing pressure to the crank you don't fix it by adding more PCV valves, you replace the defective one.
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:56 PM   #15
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<p>Other side is open to a little filter.</p><p>Check valve = pcv.</p><p>Check valve $</p><p>PCV $$$</p>
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:10 PM   #16
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This is how a normal PCV valve works, the plunger and two springs. This is how the OEM one works, except for some stupid reason OEM decided to stamp embossed letters on the sealing face of the plunger. Fine for a NA car, only time it ever has positive manifold pressure is a backfire, not so much for turbo. As you can see, though, there is more going on here than a simple check valve.

Almost all the aftermarket PCV valves I found still have letters stamped into the sealing face, this is bad, they all fail miserably at the mouth test.

This valve here does not fail the test, as it doesn't have letters in the face of the plunger. It is not $$$, it is $2.50 something and you can buy locally and check it before purchasing to make sure it works.

This is true Deezums catch can, and it will work

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Old 09-01-2015, 06:12 PM   #17
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<p>How is that different than a check valve. let air by one way and not the other? It even looks just like my check valve.</p>
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:13 PM   #18
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Because this one is set with a perfectly balanced cracking pressure by the use of a weighted plunger and two springs. You have no idea if the check valve on your setup is even opening, right? Is the can picking up oil?
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:15 PM   #19
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<p>Haven't run it yet. But when I pulled the check valve out both sides had a nice coating of oil</p><p>It opens at .5psi. That is not much vacuum at all.</p>
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:16 PM   #20
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<p>As long as the check valve opens easier than the PCV valve it wont interfere with PCV operations.</p><p>On vacuum PCV+Check valve opens</p><p>On boost check valve closes, who cares what PCV does.</p>
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