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i dont recall having to use a Tach Out jumper. I just used this "Route 4 (yellow/blue) to 5 (black/white) (connects ECU directly to tachometer at gauge cluster)" at the old ignitor connector.
I just put together a build with a VVT in a '90-'93 using a pnppro. I jumped the wires per this thread, and I had to put a jumper in the ms to get tach signal.
Don't go installing jumpers ***** nilly. Thats how you blow stuff up. I'm guessing the jumper is for a tach pullup. Some setups may need it others may not.
This wiring setup works. I got my tune working, and my starting issues are gone.
OK, so shame on me for giving poor advice. I wired the igniter per the instructions in this thread, with the black/white wire (5) to the blue/yellow wire (4). When I first started the car, I got no rpm signal in the dash. I then added the jumper for tach out on pin 4I, and it gave me RPM signal in the dash.
The MS instructions state:" J5: Tach Out on Connector J3, Pin 4I (1995.5+ Miata Only)
When this jumper is installed, the signal TACHOUT will be transmitted on pin 4I on the main ECU connector (J3). This should only be used on 95.5 1.8L Miatas."
So I did that. I am sending TACHOUT though the black/white wire (ECU pin 2I) to the blue/yellow wire.
many questions:
1) Is this jacked & wrong?
2) Why did I get no RPM signal without the jumper, but did get RPM signal with the jumper?
3) Could this be the culprit driving my intermittent no-start issue?
4) If I've fried something, where should I start looking?
Last edited by wackbards; 07-06-2017 at 12:09 PM.
Reason: Updates post tuning
That's correct. I'm using a 9093 PNPPRO in a 9093 car. I swapped in a VVT motor and GM D585 coils. I got no RPM signal without the jumper, and do get RPM signal with the jumper in place.
Hey guys, I'm neck deep in a 04 VVT swap into my 90 NA. There's a few things I'm looking for help with or want clarity on for where I am with it right now.
1) I have a 94-97 alternator, what pulley and belt combo do I run? Ive got the 01-05 pulleys on it now and am not running power steering or A/C
2) I have a 90-93 fuel pressure regulator with a modified 99-00 fuel rail. Am I better off to go with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?
3) I purchased VVTuner and assoc. wiring from DIYPNP to run with my original 1.6 ECU. Can anyone tell me what exactly I need to keep from the 1.6 for this? Just CAS and TPS? I didnt seem to see a lot of info about VVTuner while skimming through the thread
4) I dont have the VVT coils and and wires. What should I do? It says the 1.6 coils capable as per flyinmiata instructions..? Will I need to reroute VVT oil feed to do so?
Would the Fab9 COP be a good investment? https://fab9tuning.com/fab9tuning-pl...onversion-kit/
5) Can I get more info on the VVT oil feed that runs from the back of the engine interfering with the coils?
6) VTCS system butterflys on the intake manifold. Chop and JB weld over them?
1- Use the stock belt for that. should work just fine. so long as everything is matched up as multirib belts.
2- stock fpr will be fine. if you are boosting the engine, then why not get an adjustable
3- i believe you need to run the VVT cam and crank sensor to the VVT controller? Does it not give you any info in the install instructions?
4-Fab 9 is NEVER a good investment
5- Leave it alone
6- getting rid of them seems to be a good idea. im sure there is a solid writeup on it somewhere.
I apologize for how much of a layman I am a bout to be, but I have read over so many forums and threads attempting to gather info to get going on s vvt swap and am still super confused.
I'm looking to swap an 04 engine into my 95, something that I really have not seen many people do (it seems that everyone is swapping into a 1.6, obd2 1.8, or an nb1). In addition I have seen so many conflicting points on pretty much all aspects of the swap regarding wiring, namely the route of engine management. my most pertinent concern is oem ecu vs pnp. I am aware that this thread was created under the assumption that you are employing a pnp, but I also have not seen any mention of the VVTuner and how that plays into things. Other threads on other forums have lead me to believe that my stock 95 ecu will suffice for the swap, and even diyautotune has told me that the VVTuner will work with a stock ecu if a place the NA CAS on the exahust cam. The issue is I don't have enough funds to comfortably pick up all the hardware to drop in a pnp, nor do I have the time to have my car down for an extended period of time (I'm leaving off for college in 3 and a half months). I want to do this swap properly so that I have a good reliable car that will run without having to tinker constantly. I am not going to be tracking the car, just a weekend cruise sort of thing, so I really do not want or need that extra power and efficiency that the pnp offers, I'm really trying to avoid that if I can.
I apologize for how much of a layman I am about to be, but I have read over so many forums and threads attempting to gather info to get going on s vvt swap and am still super confused.
I'm looking to swap an 04 engine into my 95, something that I really have not seen many people do (it seems that everyone is swapping into a 1.6, obd2 1.8, or an nb1). In addition I have seen so many conflicting points on pretty much all aspects of the swap regarding wiring, namely the route of engine management. My most pertinent concern is oem ecu vs pnp. I am aware that this thread was created under the assumption that you are running a pnp, but I also have not seen any mention of the VVTuner and how that plays into things. Other threads on other forums have lead me to believe that my stock 95 ecu will suffice for the swap, and even diyautotune has told me that the VVTuner will work with a stock ecu if I place the NA CAS on the exahust cam. The issue is I don't have enough funds to comfortably pick up all the hardware to drop in a pnp, nor do I have the time to have my car down for an extended period of time (I'm leaving off for college in 3 and a half months). I want to do this swap properly so that I have a good reliable car that will run without having to tinker constantly. I am not going to be tracking the car, just a weekend cruise sort of thing, so I really do not want or need that extra power and efficiency that the pnp offers, I'm really trying to avoid that if I can.
Your OEM ECU will not run a VVT motor properly. not even with a VVTuner. VVTuner is for MS2 users or 99-00 guys who want a VVT head. You are neither of those.
If you want to continue discussion, please do it in another thread - this thread is specifically for standalone users swapping VVT motors into NA chassis.
That is the exact reason I asked; if the standalone is something that is required to make the swap proper then I would prefer not to do the swap. Rather, save up until I could be in a position where I could do the swap completely. I was under the impression that the swap could be done with the 95 ecu, so I wanted to verify before I was neck deep in a project that would not work to the level I thought it would. I appreciate the feedback and I'll be back when I have the required materials in hand.
Hey fellas. Got a 90 car, with a straitified MSPNP (came with the car). Their PNP is basically a microsquirt. I just finished swapping the car and harness, and I'm not getting crank/cam signal. However, in their ECU, I only see 99-00 and 4G63 nothing for 01+. So just to clarify, I need to get the VVT Tuner? And once I do that, which trigger settings do I select?
Hmm strange. One other thing I was not able to do was the actual crank sensor wiring. The reason being is on my VVT harness, the connector was busted. I have the connector on the sensor side, but not the other end. I just jammed pins into it.
So from the crank sensor, I have Red/Blue/Black. Red has the W/R, Black has the Black/Blue, and Blue has the signal wire. I checked all of that, and it should be right, don't understand why I don't have anything in my trigger logs whatsoever.
This may or may not help your situation, but I swapped a 99 engine into my 93 initially using the 93 computer, using the old CAS. I later switched to a diypnp (microsquirt), but still kept the CAS (4G63). When I later swapped to a VVT motor, I kept the CAS to keep things simple, and used a an extra output to trigger the VVT on/off, like VTEC. I eventually added the Vvtuner, and ran the cam and crank sensor solely to the vvtuner and kept the CAS connected to the diypnp. I've had issues with the cam sensor heat soaking in traffic which made the vvt go crazy at idle, so for reliability purposes, I plan on keeping the CAS in place to run the engine, and use the hall sensors just for vvt control so if I do have an issue, I can just unplug the vvt solenoid and the car will still run ok and won't leave me stranded.
I've been test driving my VVT(from a british 2003 wreck) swapped 91 and I came across the famous engine stall issue. After doing quite some searching on various forums.
This is what I've been doing:
- driving for about 15 minutes or so. Then I got on a long road where I was cruising at 70km/h. Suddenly the engine dies.
- towed it home
- replaced crank position sensor.
- Went driving again
- same thing happened
- pushed it home ( luckely it was on the way home :P)
- replaced cam position sensor
- and as of yesterday the same god damn thing happened again.
My tach isn't working aswell :P
I'm running a megasquirt PNPPRO for the 90-93 miata from DIYautotune with the 01-05 basemap.
Any ideas what might be causing these problems?
06-06-2017, 12:00 PM
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