If you have a standalone you probably have it wired so the ecu drives the tach even on the 94.

That's what we're finding on our MSM swapped '92. In order to have a tach with '01+ coils, you need to have a tach output pin on the ECU to go to the cluster.

FYI: For those of you running Gen1 MSPNPs, DIYautotune will do the mod for a tach output pin for $75 once you ship it to them. I believe the schematic for a DIY circuit is floating around here somewhere.

I'm fairly certain Gen2 MSPNPs already have a tach output pin.

Note: this thread is meant for standalone ECU replacements, such as MS and AEM.

For those of you wanting to use a stock ECU, please keep the discussion in this thread:

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...athread-80666/

But to sum up: stock ECU won't see a tach signal with '01+ coils, and it'll kill itself within a few seconds.

Remember, DON'T discuss those issues here.

Only 90-93 Gen1 MSPNPs do not have a built in tach output. The Gen 1 94-95 and 96-97 already have it built in, as do all models Gen2 and Pro PNPs.

Example tach circuit for 90-93 Gen 1 is shown here:
MS1/Extra Hardware Manual

In most cases, I'd recommend purchasing an aftermarket tach adapter before sending an ECU in to be modified. Cost would be about the same or less and would eliminate down time.

In the event that you plan to keep your 94-95 block and simply update to the VVT head, is it still recommended that I update to the crank trigger setup instead of the CAS that is on the original head? I certainly understand that new ignition (in my case I will upgrade to COPS) and VVT actuation will need to be wired in. The throttle body update is suggested, but not a have to. I'm starting to add up the wiring harness needed for the pigtails along with all the sensors and the difference in cost from just getting an entire 01+ engine gets smaller and smaller. Again, this is all assuming the use of MS EM.

No way to control VVT without the crank sensor, so why keep the CAS?

And you'll basically need to replace the oil pump in order to get the crank trigger on a 94-95. IIRC the boss is there so if you're a fucking judo master with a hand drill you could drill and tap it maybe.

So I might as well just get a complete VVT engine and stop trying to gather the parts to make it work with my 95 block. I'm still educating myself on the differences required to work with VVT. Thanks for the assistance.

You also get an extra point of compression. Lots of good reasons to just source a full longblock.

Updated the OP to include the answer to your question.

1999-2000 coils:
+12v: Black/white

trigger cyl 1/4: Brown/Yellow

trigger cyl 2/3: Brown

ground: Black

Now, do we have to put capacitor as NB2 OEM harness ?

99-00 coils are garbage, you're much better off retaining your stock 1.6/1.8 coils if you are doing a BP4W swap. I specifically left 99-00 coil info off the OP for that reason. :)

Or you can just go with the Fab9 COP's.

Or you can use the perfectly adequate stock ignition system, vs. upgrading to a system with no benefits.

What I did. They just look purty. Stock bottom end and they're fine, but testing DIYauto has done shows they're not ideal for big boost.

They fit in the hole. Every double meaning intended.

Stock coils fit in the hole too...

I thought the VVT vc had smaller holes for the wires?

It does, and the stock VVT coils fit into the VVT holes. The 99-00 has the same holes as the 90-97, so you would just use stock 90-97 coils instead of the 99-00 coils. If you're going to go aftermarket, skip the fab 9 parts and go straight to an LS2 Truck coil setup.

• If you are swapping a BP4W into a 90-97, use stock 90-97 coils and wires (preferably the 94-97 coils)
• If you are swapping a BP6D (VVT) into a 90-97, use VVT coils and wires and wire them per the original post's instructions

A 3rd party has tested the coils; we have not. The 3rd party test was not flattering. I have no horse in the race, other than the vendor was blaming my ECU for the troubles with his product.

Ben,
My 92 is the one curly mentioned, would you happen to have a link to an aftermarket tach adapter that would work for such an application?