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Old 08-11-2010, 11:39 PM   #1
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Default Dialing in ID 1000's dead time correction and everything else

Ok so 1st of all, I posted this in engine section cause this section gets a ton more traffic and the Adaptronic section has been pretty much dead lately. Secondly, its not exactly just adaptronic related, but more of a "my stupid little questions now that I'm ready to start tuning the car on the ID1000's"



Anyways,

1) what fuel pressure should I be at with an 00 NB equipped with a Walbro255 HP? I'm assuming stock is 43.5psi (read that somewhere) but can someone confirm? Searched for a solid half hour and can't find anything anywhere with OEM nb fuel pressure figures. I also saw someone post that with the 255 HP its more like 50psi due to the pump overwhelming the regulator? Any truth to this?

2) Here is the chart that came with the injectors:


Here is my "dead time" screen:



Ive attempted to plug the values in, but it gives only the 8,10/12/14 so do I just "smooth it out" in between?



Please help.
I'm SOOOO close to driving this thing.

Lastly, I'm running it on pump gas right now til I can get it running solid enough to be able to make it to an e85 station and have a semi-decent map to throw in after I fill up with the corn.


Baby steps
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:05 PM   #2
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holy ****. seriously?

NO ONE?
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:52 PM   #3
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I believe the NB has a fuel pressure of 60psi as noted in this thread: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=330723

So I'd use the 60psi row and interpolate as you've done. However, I don't claim to be an expert.
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:00 PM   #4
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Thank you for that info man. At least 1 of my questions is answered.
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:03 PM   #5
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Stock regulator? Either way, I'd run a pressure gauge given what your goals are.

Beyond that, I know nothing of dead time. Can Travis help you out, did you try him?
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:04 PM   #6
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Seems like it's all been answered, what else are you wanting to know?
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL View Post
Seems like it's all been answered, what else are you wanting to know?
I guess. Except my car runs like absolute dog ****.
I'll change the values to the "60psi" region and keep tweaking with it.

Did you smooth yours out like I did or does the hydra only need the setpoints listed in the graph? such as 8/10/12/14 and nothing in between.
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:33 PM   #8
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I had to smooth it out as well between cells. Just like any injector change, there's still tuning that will need to be done. You can get close using the math if your old injector size was similar, but it still requires some tuning. Think of this as an opportunity to start over and use all the knowledge you've learned over the past few years to get it dialed in.
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:45 PM   #9
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You also want to find out at what PSI the ID1000s are most happy. I seem to remember the Honda guys found they atomizied best at 75psi base, but I could be wrong.
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Old 08-13-2010, 01:54 AM   #10
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Thanx. Going to tweak with it now
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Old 08-13-2010, 02:19 AM   #11
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I spoke with the guys at ID/T1 a while ago, they said the injector likes to be run at 90psi at full chat. I run ~70psi of base pressure. They also said 130psi is the max they want to run, if you need the capacity.

At 70psi base pressure, I can get them to idle stable in the low 13:1 range at ~1000rpm.

Compare this to RC which says 65-70psi max - fail.
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Old 08-13-2010, 02:38 AM   #12
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Ok, after putting in the 60psi values, the car is MUCH better.


YAY PROGRESS


One thing that is kinda bothering me: the car is pulling 16kpa in idle. Isn't that a little too low? Shouldn't it be somewhere in the 19kpa range?
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Old 08-17-2010, 03:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
Ok, after putting in the 60psi values, the car is MUCH better.


YAY PROGRESS


One thing that is kinda bothering me: the car is pulling 16kpa in idle. Isn't that a little too low? Shouldn't it be somewhere in the 19kpa range?

I know you have some other issues now with your idle, like trying to run your car on a corn but

idle vaccuum is affected by a bunch of things- vacuum leaks, timing, timing trims, physical dimensions of yer cylinders, ports etc etc.

16 is kinda low- my stock 03 1.8 pulled 23kpa in idle even after being boost whored for 30k miles. but, my new motor does something like 16kpa like yours, when it's actually run.. who knows though, i went to new maps and a new hydra version so the ecu could definetly be the cause. compression tests out just fine for my motor so i say ecu fuggityness.
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Old 08-17-2010, 09:22 AM   #14
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All the dead time correction curve does is increase or decrease the amount of fuel injected based on the battery's voltage. If the car is running like ***, it's not the dead time curve, it's your tune/settings. Car should pretty much be sitting at 14v while running therefore the dead time curve isn't even in play, only really when you turn on things like a/c and headlights will the voltage drop and the fuel requirements change, if anything you'll notice it'll just get richer at idle.
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:23 AM   #15
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So the idle isn't any longer an issue. Its healthy now.
Dead times aren't much of an issue anymore either, got that figured out.


BUT I'm still struggling with cold start and other issues.

Brain, if you have a minute check out my thread about it in the Adaptronic section. I'm struggling to get this bitch up and running and its giving me a hard time lol
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:31 AM   #16
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i know jack **** about the adaptronic, all I know is the software is confusing as hell.
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:03 PM   #17
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18, have you tried skyrocketing your cranking settings? Try doubling or tripling the cranking enrichment?
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:06 PM   #18
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Yup. Tried everything from 50-210.

I actually somehow think that I'm overdoing it and making it TOO rich. Cause when I'm cranking its dumping so much I can smell it. Smells like a LOT of unburnt fuel. And when it finally fires its super rich. But then when I back it down it makes absolutely no difference at all.




One thing I did notice is it starts a bit quicker when I advance cranking timing. When I changed it from 10* BTDC to 40* BTDC it decreased the time it takes to fire a bit.
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:59 PM   #19
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Maybe the flame front is too slow when things are cold? It would have to be really slow...

I still vote for push button ether injection...
http://www.warehouseautoparts.com/Sp...ton_system.htm
or instead of push button, add a relay and have your ecu run it for 2 seconds on cranking
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Old 08-17-2010, 01:05 PM   #20
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iirc I had to decrease cold idle enrich % with the E85.
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