Do I need a new crankshaft?
Just took off my crank pulley because it was wobbling.
Can I still use this crank or is it time for a new one? I'm guessing the crankshaft bolt wasn't properly torqued since I had to remove it a bunch of times recently. I have a good pulley boss/pulley/woodruff key. But does the crank need to be replaced as well? You can click pics for 3000x2000 res. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1340761244 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1340761244 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1340761244 |
The damage to the crank nose doesn't look all that horrible. I'd certainly attempt the repair first. Worst-case scenario is you wind up having to replace the crank anyway. Best-case is it lasts for another half light-second or more.
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i'd wait for someone else to chime in; take my opinion with a grain of salt...
but the crank looks fine. a new pulley boss looks to be in order. |
Yeah I have a new everything except the crank. I even have a crank that I gave away to a friend.
I figure the same way - worst case scenario it starts wobbling again I'll just put in another crank. |
1 Attachment(s)
Reinstalled everything using my old 1.6 pulley boss. Once the thinner boss arrives (cause I need it for toothed wheel) I'll redo it. For now, no wobble.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1340766880 |
Crank is fine....I'd loctite it and be done. I recently did this and my crank was much worse than this and have had no problems since
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With loctite fix you basically loctite crank + key + timing belt sprocket into 1 solid piece, correct?
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Originally Posted by soviet
(Post 895850)
With loctite fix you basically loctite crank + key + timing belt sprocket into 1 solid piece, correct?
I also used regular blue Loctite on the crank bolt..torque to a little over 90ftlbs |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 895789)
The damage to the crank nose doesn't look all that horrible. I'd certainly attempt the Loctite 660 Quick-Metal repair first. Worst-case scenario is you wind up having to replace the crank anyway. Best-case is it lasts for another half light-second or more.
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I posted in the other thread: crank good, pulley shot. JB Weld or the Loctite fix if you think the key is too loose. Otherwise, go for it.
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Originally Posted by fooger03
(Post 895955)
I'd think he could get a full light-second out of it, the keyway might be a little loose at the end, but the keyway doesn't appear displaced at all, as shown in the m.net locticte repair how-to. A new pulley is definitely in order though.
I mean, it is fast. We all know that. Faster than a leopard, for instance, or a lotto vendor on welfare-check day. But it's not incomprehensibly fast. My own car has traveled just over 1.149 light-seconds in only 22 years, which easily falls into the range of "things that I can actually wrap my head around," especially since it was parked for the majority of that time. |
Damn, my chassis is right around 1 light second. The crank... was in 4 different cars at this point.
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I have two cranks you could have.
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My keyway is worse than yours with most of the damage toward the last 1/4 of the outter portion of the nose. I have over 100k on it with multiple teardowns and no Locktite, just torqued to factory specs, and it looks no worse now than it did 100k miles ago.
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 896263)
I have two cranks you could have.
Originally Posted by jcnormar
(Post 896488)
My keyway is worse than yours with most of the damage toward the last 1/4 of the outter portion of the nose. I have over 100k on it with multiple teardowns and no Locktite, just torqued to factory specs, and it looks no worse now than it did 100k miles ago.
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Non turbo. Built 1.9L, lightened crank, 11:1 compression. Lots of autocrossing/high rpm before and after the re-build (100+ events). The last 30k+ the engine has seen numerous trips to 8000 rpm.
When I bought the engine, the damage had already been done. I bought a new pulley boss and key. The key fits snugly in the keyway. |
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