are my spark plugs ok
#1
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are my spark plugs ok
I am somewhat new to tuning and working on cars. I'm rebuilding a wrecked 92 Miata.
I was reading about detonation tonight and it mentioned hearing rattles. I occasionally have rattles up front that possibly sound engine related that I can't seem to find. It then mentioned checking plugs for flecks of carbon and aluminum.
I haven't checked the plugs since I got the car so I thought I better take a look. I took out one and it was a little moist on the bottom half with silver colored liquid. I took some pictures, see below.
Is this detonation, something else, or normal?
I was reading about detonation tonight and it mentioned hearing rattles. I occasionally have rattles up front that possibly sound engine related that I can't seem to find. It then mentioned checking plugs for flecks of carbon and aluminum.
I haven't checked the plugs since I got the car so I thought I better take a look. I took out one and it was a little moist on the bottom half with silver colored liquid. I took some pictures, see below.
Is this detonation, something else, or normal?
#5
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"Rattles" is a bit vague, but the early Miatas are notorious for having extremely loud hydraulic lash adjuster (valve lifters.) They're loudest when the oil is cold, quiet down a bit as the engine gets warm, and then get loud again as the oil becomes very hot. The noise can range from a slight tapping sound to something resembling an anti-aircraft gun being fired at a cement-mixer filled with hammers being dragged down a field of boulders by a diesel truck.
Your plug looks fine to me, by the way. I can't really see the "silver-colored liquid" of which you speak. Could it be anti-seize compound? It's silver, a liquid, and is commonly found on the lower portion of spark plugs.
Your plug looks fine to me, by the way. I can't really see the "silver-colored liquid" of which you speak. Could it be anti-seize compound? It's silver, a liquid, and is commonly found on the lower portion of spark plugs.
#6
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I guess the sound is more like a metallic buzzing. I have a video. Actually more audio than video. You can hear it a few times throughout the clip, but I think it is most noticeable in the last few seconds.
Normally it happens in 2nd or 3rd, 2500-4000rpm. If I change throttle pressure up or down it usually goes away.
Normally it happens in 2nd or 3rd, 2500-4000rpm. If I change throttle pressure up or down it usually goes away.
#8
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2 things:
1: I have never seen anybody upload a youtube video that was only sound. Ray Charles would approve.
2: You mentioned metallic rattle. Are you thinking you may be experiencing detonation or a misfire because of your plugs? Personally, I don't think they look bad enough to cause that kind of problem. Replace them since you have em out, or wire brush them and then check the gaps.
What plugs are they, and what gap were you running?
1: I have never seen anybody upload a youtube video that was only sound. Ray Charles would approve.
2: You mentioned metallic rattle. Are you thinking you may be experiencing detonation or a misfire because of your plugs? Personally, I don't think they look bad enough to cause that kind of problem. Replace them since you have em out, or wire brush them and then check the gaps.
What plugs are they, and what gap were you running?
#11
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I'm probably just paranoid. I don't know that there are any misfires or detonation, but I don't know enough to confirm.
The plugs are NGK BKRE6S 11. No idea on the gap since they came with the car and I haven't checked.
The plugs are NGK BKRE6S 11. No idea on the gap since they came with the car and I haven't checked.
#14
Absolutely nothing wrong with those plugs.
Heavy detonation results in damaged (chipped) ceramics -- sometimes even a broken electrode.
The thing you are thinking about is pre-ignition due to overheated plugs. When that happens, the result on power is dramatic (like 50% less, runs like #$%@). Also, the appearance of the plugs is unique, they will be completely clean as if they just came out of the box and the ceramic will have little black dots in it. Both of these are the result of overheating.
Relax. Have you tracked down your loose exhaust shield yet?
Heavy detonation results in damaged (chipped) ceramics -- sometimes even a broken electrode.
The thing you are thinking about is pre-ignition due to overheated plugs. When that happens, the result on power is dramatic (like 50% less, runs like #$%@). Also, the appearance of the plugs is unique, they will be completely clean as if they just came out of the box and the ceramic will have little black dots in it. Both of these are the result of overheating.
Relax. Have you tracked down your loose exhaust shield yet?
#16
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Thanks for your help guys.
I went searching for the rattle/buzzing today, and I found a few things....
Can't get to bolt "A" on the bottom of the exhaust. Transmission and dipstick and a couple other things in the way. Coolant leak, "B", but I can't trace it to either side. Could the hose itself be cracked behind the steel?
I removed the heat shields, ignore the ungrounded cable. It looks like these two bolts, "C" and "D", might actually be broken?
Another loose bolt "E" near the exhaust.
Picture of bolts "E" and "A".
I went searching for the rattle/buzzing today, and I found a few things....
Can't get to bolt "A" on the bottom of the exhaust. Transmission and dipstick and a couple other things in the way. Coolant leak, "B", but I can't trace it to either side. Could the hose itself be cracked behind the steel?
I removed the heat shields, ignore the ungrounded cable. It looks like these two bolts, "C" and "D", might actually be broken?
Another loose bolt "E" near the exhaust.
Picture of bolts "E" and "A".
#19
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I replaced the two studs on the back of the manifold/turbo. I had an exhaust leak there that I wasn't aware of until I removed the heat shields and felt the air blowing yesterday.
After adding two new studs the leak if pretty much, if not completely, gone.
I was able to tighten the turbo support bolt labeled "E" in a picture in a previous post.
I was not able to tighten bolt "A" on the bottom-right of the downpipe. The other three bolts are solid tight.
The original rattles are gone. There is a new one now. I think it might be the heat shields around the turbo.
After adding two new studs the leak if pretty much, if not completely, gone.
I was able to tighten the turbo support bolt labeled "E" in a picture in a previous post.
I was not able to tighten bolt "A" on the bottom-right of the downpipe. The other three bolts are solid tight.
The original rattles are gone. There is a new one now. I think it might be the heat shields around the turbo.
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