TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

So I'll be pulling the motor in my '99 soon. I searched for an hour and can't find any hints on the easiest way of doing this. I'd like to believe separating the motor from the trans and then pulling the motor would be easiest. Mostly just so that I don't dump all the trans oil out the back. I'll do the obvious like take off all manifolds, pull out the radiator, then pull the long block.

I ask this because doing the stoker swap in my Jeep I learned a few ways of making it way easier or limit the headaches. I haven't pulled a motor on a Miata yet, so i figure you guys probably have a few ideas/tricks. To be honest it looks to be pretty strait forward job.

I have a pretty decently stocked tool box, engine hoist, trans jack, and several jack stand. Plus a garage.

Edit so searchers don't have to read whole thread:
Pull motor and trans together---either drain trans or plug it w/ 1.6 hacked up driveshaft
Yank off manifolds or don't and do it when the engine is out and easier to get around.
Pull radiator to eliminate whacking it and royally getting pissed off
If funds allow do while motor is easy to get around->Coolant reroute, motor mounts, ...
I'll update as needed.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

I've done it both ways and it's easier to pull both together.

It's so easy to pull both together that now many are pulling both instead of just dropping the trans to swap in a clutch. Putting in a trans with the engine in place was a PITA to me. Never again.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Actually, I think today I could have everything unhooked and the motor/trans on a picker ready to come out before someone could unbolt the exhaust and trans with both in the car.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

I can do both together I guess. The trans just got fresh fluids and I have this odd thing with not reusing anything that comes out if I can avoid it. Oh well, new fluid is cheap. Is it easier to put the motor back in attached to the trans as well?

IcantDo55

iTrader: (11)

Just pulled my 2000 motor/trans yesterday, much easier in one big chunk. Drain trany fluid than zip lock a plastic bag over the tailshaft...no mess. 45 minutes its out.

aaronc7

iTrader: (8)

I'd do both together. Done it twice now and it's really not bad at all, very straight forward really. I don't know what clutch you're running, or if you might need to upgrade it in prep for built motor, but perfect time to do that as well taking them both out together

Miater

Would you leave the shifter in when pulling both?

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

um at the risk of making you look dumb no. The shifter will have to be removed, and you willl probly have to wiggle the tail shaft down abit to clear the last bit of firewall. Other than that it is stupid easy and effecient to pull both toghter. Also OP leave the intake manifold etc on its not gonna be in your way just disconect the fuel and ps, and or AC units and put them aside. The radiator can stay in place as well but you would obviusly need to drain it.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

I'm going to pull the radiator to avoid wacking it on accident. Plus need to adjust/redo my ducting a bit. It has an ACT from the previous owner. Still debating if I want another ACT or FM's level 2. The peddle effort on the ACT is a bit stiffer than I like. I have FM's level 1 in the other car and like it. Just need to find out how much stiffer the level 2 is. The wife will drive it once in a while. Car has PS but no A/C. I might depower the PS while I'm waiting on the motor. New motor mounts and maybe AWR sway mounts to after looking at the other thread. Need to figure what I can delete in the engine bay and how. Charcoal can and stuff. Yeah for no smog requirments for once in my life.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Pulling the radiator is required if you're pulling the engine/tranny together.

Pull them together and zip-tie the drive shaft into the transmission, that'll keep the fluids in. Obviously you need a lot of room in front of the car to get that assembly length out. Alternatively you can source a 1.6 drive shaft from any of the many people who are upgrading to a 1.8 diff and cut off the yoke. That'll give you an easy plug to zip tie on.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I got my cut driveshaft from Steve at Panic Motorsports. It is an amazing tool.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Anyone got a block and tackle in their garage for pulling motor?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Last time I pulled my motor I had my turbo and intake attached to motor.

Engine leveler ftw

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

^that's a killer tool. I might look into that. However, I think I'll drain it and change all the seals on the trans. It has a new rear at least. Might look into finding a 6sp while it's out. Just don't want a 6sp and my 4.3rear together. Wonder if I swap my 4.1 from the '97 in if it would be livable. Damn you limited budget.

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

Altogether is the best way

flounder

crap. link no worky....

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Depends on your radiator I guess. I never removed the stock radiator when pulling engines. Just put a towel over it to not bang stuff around.

aaronc7

iTrader: (8)

I always removed it, you're draining the coolant and such anyways, only a few extra mins of work to pull the actual radiator. ive never tried it without, but little extra space/clearance is always nice, especially putting it back in.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

Still, you have to drain the coolant to pull the motor anyway. It's 2 nuts to remove the brackets on top of the radiator, and 2-4 hose clamps to loosen up, and 2 fan plugs to unplugs to remove the radiator. 5-10min worth of work to pull the rad, set it somewhere safe, and if it's out of the way. I'd have to do something really stupid to whack it with the engine at that point. 10min worth of work to not whack the rad or not 10min of work, whack the rad, and be pissed off and possibly f--- my new crossflow/fans. Almost the same idea as jacking the car 4ft into the air to pull it out motor/trans together and being to belligerent to undo the 4 bolts and removing the stick shift rod. Sometime 5min of work in one spot saves hours of frustration later.

Trust me: If you undo the motor from the trans on a 4.0 Wrangler get 6ft of extensions and a impact driver + a friend. The upper trans bolts are made of sex lube and butter. Still have no idea why Jeep decided to use standard, metric, and male/female torx for different things.

curly

iTrader: (25)

All with the transmission attached? I'm pretty sure I had to move the engine forward into the radiator's space in order to get it out, never tried with it still in I suppose.