Easiest way to pull engine
03-26-2012, 09:31 AM
#41
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What are the tricks for getting the engine back in with the transmission attached? I had the hardest time lining up the motor mount bolts with the tiny holes in the subframe. I kept smashing the turbo into the side of the engine bay, and the VVT oil supply line into the firewall, and the motor mounts into the subframe. Took like an hour and a half of just wrestling that last inch or two to get the driver's side bolt into the hole. I ended up taking off the passenger side mount, seating the driver's side and putting the nut on loosely, then re-attaching the passenger mount and seating that in. It was brutal.
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03-26-2012, 10:35 AM
#44
And yes, the engine mounts are properly oriented.
The mounts are as high on the passenger's side slot as it can physically go, which is why it's crooked. I can't seem to get the damn mount to go down.
What are the tricks for getting the engine back in with the transmission attached? I had the hardest time lining up the motor mount bolts with the tiny holes in the subframe. I kept smashing the turbo into the side of the engine bay, and the VVT oil supply line into the firewall, and the motor mounts into the subframe. Took like an hour and a half of just wrestling that last inch or two to get the driver's side bolt into the hole. I ended up taking off the passenger side mount, seating the driver's side and putting the nut on loosely, then re-attaching the passenger mount and seating that in. It was brutal.
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03-26-2012, 10:41 AM
#45
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You could always just drop the whole subframe out from under the car will everything attached. Thats what i did, just make sure to line your steering wheel up before you lower the car back onto the subframe. Altho if you dont have a lift at your disposal i suppose this is the hardest way.
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03-26-2012, 11:24 AM
#46
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I've always removed the engine with both mounts attached and installed it with one or two mounts removed. Out of my 5 engine installs, I've tried it with both installed twice, and both times ended up removing one or both. Is it possible? Obviously, since it came out with both. But it's not worth my time.
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03-26-2012, 11:32 AM
#47
I've always removed the engine with both mounts attached and installed it with one or two mounts removed. Out of my 5 engine installs, I've tried it with both installed twice, and both times ended up removing one or both. Is it possible? Obviously, since it came out with both. But it's not worth my time.
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03-26-2012, 11:34 AM
#48
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03-26-2012, 11:45 AM
#49
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I tried getting it off for like an hour the first time without the proper tool, and it wasn't happening. If you aren't reusing it, you could just take a cutoff wheel to it or something.
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03-26-2012, 11:50 AM
#51
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I would put a bolt loosely on the drivers side mount so it doesn't pop out, use the engine hoist to lift it up slightly, and stick a crow bar to try and move the engine a little. That's what I had to do with mine.
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03-26-2012, 12:02 PM
#53
What are the tricks for getting the engine back in with the transmission attached? I had the hardest time lining up the motor mount bolts with the tiny holes in the subframe. I kept smashing the turbo into the side of the engine bay, and the VVT oil supply line into the firewall, and the motor mounts into the subframe. Took like an hour and a half of just wrestling that last inch or two to get the driver's side bolt into the hole. I ended up taking off the passenger side mount, seating the driver's side and putting the nut on loosely, then re-attaching the passenger mount and seating that in. It was brutal.
Just don't forget the metal "bucket" things that go between engine mounts and subrframe. Ask me how I know
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03-26-2012, 12:17 PM
#56
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What happens if you forget them? I put them in, but I have no idea why they exist.
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03-26-2012, 12:31 PM
#57
I'd rather not go with the crow bar untill I've exhausted all other options - it's just too easy to tear something up without meaning to when you force things into place.
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03-26-2012, 12:43 PM
#58
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Ah, that's right. At work ATM, working from memory. Maybe those holes are there to help get it oriented correctly? I could be totally wrong about that... lol. If you were to move it up one hole on the drivers side, would that straighten it out?
Even the mazdaspeed motor mounts are pretty flexible. With the metal cup attached, I was able to caress the mount enough with the crow bar in between the subframe and the mount to get it in the hole without tearing things up.
Pictures?
Pictures?
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