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Thank You your post just helpedme
I just picked up my engine from the machine shop on Saturday. (Vortec 350, nothing fancy) had a family emergency and the parts had to sit in the back of my truck for a couple days. They got just a little bit of surface rust. It mostly wipes off. But what do I need to do to re-prep the surfaces for assembly? Scotchbrite pad with some wd-40 then brake clean to remove the oils?
Emilio, how about those thick/thin oils ? I wanted to run 0W40 from Mobil1 which is really not all that thin as weight number might suggest ... It have pretty high VI one of the highest I saw on motor oils = 185. It is still just 13.5cSt at 100°C compared to about 17-18cSt at 100°C for 5w50 oils which I run in past. How do you feel about running this particular 0W40, king XP bearings with clearances about 002" if I remember my clearance correct? I dont like to point out that its used on some modern high performance cars as lubricant from manufacturer as that might see funny, but still true, but I read about how great this oil is in book from Graham Bell, which is pretty informative.
What matters is the viscosity at the temps your engine actually sees. Conventional oil breaks down quickly when over heated. Even cheap synthetics hold up pretty well. We're rarely building for max power so we tend to lean towards race oils; high zinc, narrower viscosity rating. In southern California we don't care how well the oil works in freezing temps. So a 10w40 or 20w50 is fine here. Top Spec Miata teams run 0W and 0w10 a quart and half low..looking for drag reductions that free up a few hp, longevity be damned. And that's without an oil cooler so they're seeing 280-310° which means maybe 30psi at redline. In contrast, we would set up a turbo race car with 20w50 and big oil cooler so it stats between 220-240° with 5-10psi more oil pressure than the OEM pump.
A question about connecting rods Emilio.
There is a factory BPD turbo engine (known as the GTX) that came with a few extra goodies including much beefier conrods than the usual normally aspirated Miata BP.
These may even have been used on the Miata SE turbo engine, I really do not know.
Do you have any experience or an opinion on these ?
A question about connecting rods Emilio.
There is a factory BPD turbo engine (known as the GTX) that came with a few extra goodies including much beefier conrods than the usual normally aspirated Miata BP.
These may even have been used on the Miata SE turbo engine, I really do not know.
Do you have any experience or an opinion on these ?
Theres just no reason to use them when the $250 eBay forged rods are a proven solution. The BPT rods might seem beefier but they’re still just a cast rod.
O/k thanks Mr Monkeyman.
They are already in the engine, so I was just seeking a second opinion.
Probably o/k for highly compressive loads such as high boost forced induction, but not for high tensile loads such as very high rpm normally aspirated.
I fully appreciate that this thread is about high performance N/A engines and my question is a off topic, but there is a lot of experience here I hoped to very briefly tap into.
Warpspeed, are you saying you have an SE (ie the Australian MSM)? And you want to know if the rods are stronger than the regular NB? They're not, they have the same limitations, and plenty of SEs/MSMs bend rods with just a bit of extra boost without proper tuning to back it up.
No not SE, its from a front wheel drive factory turbo engine bottom end I plan to put into a '99 NB.
The GTX and GTR use these rods, the GTR has well over 200 reliable factory HP, used in limited production four wheel drive rally cars. Its a serious engine with no obvious weaknesses.
Plan to combine a low compression GTX bottom end, with my existing BP4W cylinder head, and forced induction.
This has been done before, nothing new here, but just wondering about the rods.
Don't want to derail this thread any further.
No one with information that might be useful will open up this thread to answer your question. That's why it's always better to just to start a new thread with a very clear and concise title. Remember, this is a community, you have to contribute as well as request.
These are some great write ups. As far as eliminating or modifying the cooling system with regard to heater core delete, coolant lines to the throttle body, and the coolant line that goes down by the oil filter. Any documentation on these processes? I have found some information on the heater core delete. Seems like a looped line is the easiest. Wondering about kink preventing coils on the outside of the hose?
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