alangbaker

My 1990 is in pieces awaiting the reinstallation of a new bottom end and a refreshed head on top of it.

But while it's out of the car, and knowing that I plan on adding FI later...

...is there anything I should take care of while I've got the chance?

Ideas specific to the fact that it's going to get what will probably be a turbo setup are most welcome, but any thoughts at all on things useful to be doing while the engine (and transmission) aren't in the car would be of help.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Clean the hell out of all painted surfaces in the bay.

alangbaker

That one is pretty much done!

Multiple sessions with degreaser and a pressure washer.

Just as soon as we get it in the air, we're doing the same to the bottom.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Reroute. Now!

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

spend $10 dollars to replace your oil galley plugs so that you don't spend 3 months tracking an oil leak and spending tens of hundreds of dollars thinking it's the brand new pump or a multitude of seals.

alangbaker

Already have the kit...

The bottom end was prepared for racing before I got it, so it's probably done, but I'll make sure to check.

sharkythesharkdogg

Perhaps now is the time to get into the transmission tunnel around the foot-wells and line it with heat resistant material. If you're worried about heat.

Now is the time to add bungs to the oil pan, if you haven't already. I second the coolant reroute.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Put forged rods in the engine.
New engine mounts
replace slave cylinder and install 949 clutch line
install the clutch you want for boost

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

If you plan to add instruments (i.e., oil temp, water temp, whatever), good time to figure out sender mounting which might involve drilling and tapping.

If you plan to add an oil cooler, good time to get the sandwich plate mounted.

Also, good time to get rid of all the small water lines that run all over the engine and block off unneeded water and/or vacuum outlets with pipe-thread plugs instead of rubber plugs. Plug the water elbow outlet on the front of the head with a freeze plug and retention plate as part of the reroute.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Tap the oil pan and cap it till your ready for a turbo. Might as well avoid all risk of metal shavings. Also be sure to tap it towards the front drivers side where it wont hit the sub frame

alangbaker

This thread is getting full of good advice.

Thanks everyone.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

How'd you guys all miss the obvious one? While the engine is out, get a 1.8 to replace it with.

alangbaker

That might still happen...

Currently the plan is:

1. Get it back together and drive it naturally aspirated. (Doing those things that make sense)
2. Get a Megasquirt and learn to tune it before installing the turbo (probably kit).
3. Have an engine built to take turbo power (doing the engine things mentioned here to THAT one including a stronger clutch)
4. Install that engine.
5. Install turbo.

Given that you can buy a used engine for so little, there's no reason for me to have the car off the road when I want to use it as a daily driver.

Thoughts?

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

the 1.6 is still good just need to add vtps

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

This place would be a lot more boring if every noob could read and comprehend as well as you! Don't spoil this for me, tell me more about how you think an EBAY kit with an FMU should be fine and we don't know what we're talking about.

alangbaker

OK, that's a new one: what is a "VTPS"?

My personal motto is: do it once, so do it right.

If you're going end up buying all this stuff anyhow, then why not accept that, and figure out the best order in which to buy and install it?

glade

iTrader: (2)

Variable Throttle Position Sensor

alangbaker

Cool. So the stock TPS is just on/off (presumably closed/not closed)?

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Yea so was mine....

sharkythesharkdogg

'90-'93 Manual trans cars came with a three way sensor. Idle, WOT, and everything in between. The automatics had a true VTPS. One sensor reading for for everything between idle and WOT is no good for tuning.