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-   -   The engine is out: what should I do? (https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/engine-out-what-should-i-do-80095/)

alangbaker 07-21-2014 09:11 PM

The engine is out: what should I do?
 
My 1990 is in pieces awaiting the reinstallation of a new bottom end and a refreshed head on top of it.

But while it's out of the car, and knowing that I plan on adding FI later...

...is there anything I should take care of while I've got the chance?

Ideas specific to the fact that it's going to get what will probably be a turbo setup are most welcome, but any thoughts at all on things useful to be doing while the engine (and transmission) aren't in the car would be of help.

rleete 07-21-2014 09:12 PM

Clean the hell out of all painted surfaces in the bay.

alangbaker 07-21-2014 09:17 PM


Originally Posted by rleete (Post 1150077)
Clean the hell out of all painted surfaces in the bay.

That one is pretty much done!

Multiple sessions with degreaser and a pressure washer.

Just as soon as we get it in the air, we're doing the same to the bottom.

:)

hornetball 07-21-2014 11:50 PM

Reroute. Now!

psyber_0ptix 07-22-2014 12:35 AM

spend $10 dollars to replace your oil galley plugs so that you don't spend 3 months tracking an oil leak and spending tens of hundreds of dollars thinking it's the brand new pump or a multitude of seals.

alangbaker 07-22-2014 12:53 AM


Originally Posted by hornetball (Post 1150110)
Reroute. Now!

Already have the kit...


Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix (Post 1150118)
spend $10 dollars to replace your oil galley plugs so that you don't spend 3 months tracking an oil leak and spending tens of hundreds of dollars thinking it's the brand new pump or a multitude of seals.

The bottom end was prepared for racing before I got it, so it's probably done, but I'll make sure to check.

sharkythesharkdogg 07-22-2014 08:11 AM

Perhaps now is the time to get into the transmission tunnel around the foot-wells and line it with heat resistant material. If you're worried about heat.

Now is the time to add bungs to the oil pan, if you haven't already. I second the coolant reroute.

Leafy 07-22-2014 08:30 AM

Put forged rods in the engine.
New engine mounts
replace slave cylinder and install 949 clutch line
install the clutch you want for boost

hornetball 07-22-2014 11:36 AM

If you plan to add instruments (i.e., oil temp, water temp, whatever), good time to figure out sender mounting which might involve drilling and tapping.

If you plan to add an oil cooler, good time to get the sandwich plate mounted.

Also, good time to get rid of all the small water lines that run all over the engine and block off unneeded water and/or vacuum outlets with pipe-thread plugs instead of rubber plugs. Plug the water elbow outlet on the front of the head with a freeze plug and retention plate as part of the reroute.

ScottyP3821 07-22-2014 12:21 PM

Tap the oil pan and cap it till your ready for a turbo. Might as well avoid all risk of metal shavings. Also be sure to tap it towards the front drivers side where it wont hit the sub frame

alangbaker 07-22-2014 01:43 PM

This thread is getting full of good advice.

Thanks everyone.

thenuge26 07-22-2014 02:18 PM

How'd you guys all miss the obvious one? While the engine is out, get a 1.8 to replace it with.

alangbaker 07-22-2014 02:25 PM

That might still happen...

Currently the plan is:

1. Get it back together and drive it naturally aspirated. (Doing those things that make sense)
2. Get a Megasquirt and learn to tune it before installing the turbo (probably kit).
3. Have an engine built to take turbo power (doing the engine things mentioned here to THAT one including a stronger clutch)
4. Install that engine.
5. Install turbo.

Given that you can buy a used engine for so little, there's no reason for me to have the car off the road when I want to use it as a daily driver.

Thoughts?

ScottyP3821 07-22-2014 02:26 PM

the 1.6 is still good just need to add vtps

thenuge26 07-22-2014 02:38 PM


Originally Posted by alangbaker (Post 1150290)
That might still happen...

Currently the plan is:

1. Get it back together and drive it naturally aspirated. (Doing those things that make sense)
2. Get a Megasquirt and learn to tune it before installing the turbo (probably kit).
3. Have an engine built to take turbo power (doing the engine things mentioned here to THAT one including a stronger clutch)
4. Install that engine.
5. Install turbo.

Given that you can buy a used engine for so little, there's no reason for me to have the car off the road when I want to use it as a daily driver.

Thoughts?

This place would be a lot more boring if every noob could read and comprehend as well as you! Don't spoil this for me, tell me more about how you think an EBAY kit with an FMU should be fine and we don't know what we're talking about. :party:

alangbaker 07-22-2014 02:42 PM


Originally Posted by ScottyP3821 (Post 1150291)
the 1.6 is still good just need to add vtps

OK, that's a new one: what is a "VTPS"?


Originally Posted by thenuge26 (Post 1150292)
This place would be a lot more boring if every noob could read and comprehend as well as you! Don't spoil this for me, tell me more about how you think an EBAY kit with an FMU should be fine and we don't know what we're talking about. :party:

My personal motto is: do it once, so do it right.

If you're going end up buying all this stuff anyhow, then why not accept that, and figure out the best order in which to buy and install it? ;)

glade 07-22-2014 02:50 PM


Originally Posted by alangbaker (Post 1150295)
OK, that's a new one: what is a "VTPS ;)


Variable Throttle Position Sensor

alangbaker 07-22-2014 03:59 PM


Originally Posted by glade (Post 1150298)
Variable Throttle Position Sensor

Cool. So the stock TPS is just on/off (presumably closed/not closed)?

psyber_0ptix 07-22-2014 05:00 PM


Originally Posted by alangbaker (Post 1150119)


The bottom end was prepared for racing before I got it, so it's probably done, but I'll make sure to check.


Yea so was mine....

sharkythesharkdogg 07-22-2014 08:26 PM


Originally Posted by alangbaker (Post 1150325)
Cool. So the stock TPS is just on/off (presumably closed/not closed)?

'90-'93 Manual trans cars came with a three way sensor. Idle, WOT, and everything in between. The automatics had a true VTPS. One sensor reading for for everything between idle and WOT is no good for tuning.


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