Engine won't start after 99-00 head swap
 

so before the other thread gets anymore off topic.

engine turns over, have spark, fuel in lines, cant get the timing gun to light just off the turn over.

i got the 2000 head and manifold on. used the 99-00 fuel rail with my 97 harness and 97 coilpack and harness.

Attachment 210403

the FPR off the 97 is turned upside down, the vaccum line would otherwise hit the new head.

Attachment 210404
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Attachment 210406

got hoses all over the damn place, had to rig the new fuel lines.

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heres the 97 harness and 97 coilpack

Attachment 210409

got the egr tube hooked up fine

Attachment 210410


my questions, is there suppose to be a vaccum line off the VICS solenoid, is so where does it go to?
you can see it in this pic, right to the left of the TB
Attachment 210411

the 99-00 manifold's throttle cable bracket is about 1/2in to 3/4in shorter, had to thread the clip up to the top holder, still pretty lose tho :(
Attachment 210412




any advice?

Your fuel rail won't work like that. Where does fuel go in and come out?

If everything is plugged in...which t-body are you using?

The fuel goes one direction through the regulator...did you change that?

fuel goes thru this line, into the fpr
Attachment 210402

fuel goes out on the 99-00 rail, which cant be seen in my pictures. i can take off the TB and snap a pic if need be. the thing about the 99-00 fuelrail is that 99-00 cars dont have a fpr on the rail, its in the fuel tank. i called flyin' miata about it and they said to put my 97 fpr onto the 99-00 fuel rail. the vacuum line on the fpr doesnt have a hose on it atm, does that matter?

im using the 97 throttle body, the cable is on, just a bit lose.

The return line hooks to the fuel pressure regulator. So fuel goes out the regulator, not into it.

if its squirting fuel, then its probably squirting too much fuel...not sure if it will be too much to start but probably considering the way this thread is going.





p.s. why didn't you use the 99 t-body?

some good news, motor wasnt TDC. bad assumptions in that case. got the timing fixed, checked the knotch on the crank. took off the pulleys and didnt have any thread-lock for one of the alternator pulleys.

its not squirting fuel, got my lines mixed up when i posted earlier. the line shown with the red circle is going into lower fuel line(return i assume) and the other fuel line is hooked up on the 99-00 fuel rail to the taller line, the one closer to the front of the car.

i suppose i could of found a 99-00 TB but didnt think much of it other than if my 97 would mate up. after i figured that out i just dropped it off the list of things to get. i got the cable tighter now and theres not much slop in the throttle as i thought there would be.

got a local club member with a 99 helping so i can use his car as a reference for all the vacuum lines. should be able to finish it up tomorrow morning, wish me luck!

thread lock for one of the alternator pulleys? HUH? how many alternator pulleys do you have and why do you need thread lock on them?

short bolts that hold the pulley, was told by a mechanic friend of mine to use thread-lock on them.

Nothing wrong with using thread locker on threaded assemblies from a reliability standpoint.

using blue, so itll still be able to come off. my club member with pictures fell thru, looking for a 99-00 pdf manual or some sort of diagram for the vacuum lines.

Search Stealth97 under user names. He recently started a thread on vaccuum diagrams for vics in a 97 miata w/ a 99 head swap. :)

well after a long day of work, finally got it running thanks to some friends.

havnt hooked up my rpm switch, so VICS wont be working properly. wondering if i could drive it just around town until i get the rpm switch hooked up.

and question, y do the butterflies open up so late? 5250 rpm? figured it was made for midrange.

I am glad you got it running.
It will be fine to drive around some people never hook up the VICS they just wire it open. But the RPM switch will give you more torque so keep after it.

got a fuel leak, i think one or several o-rings on the injectors are bad :(

Except there are no short bolts on the alternator pulley, it's held in place by 1 larger central bolt. That's why i questioned it. You are referring to the water pump pulley apparently.

yes, sry, i was trying to refer to the waterpump pulley. was just a lil frustrated and was thinking straight, but whats new? lol

have to put new seals on the injectors, and hook up the rpm switch. unfortnately have to run the rpm indicator wire through the firewall, through the interior to the ecu behind the passenger seat. after i get that done it'll be good to go..... hopefully

i appreciate everyone's help and dealing with my nubness, big thx to Stealth97 for answering all my random pm's on cr.net

And +1 on using thread locker on the W/P pulley. Didn't do that (and didn't tighten the bolts enough obviously) and had the pulley get loose after ~200 miles. Strange vibration, followed by an alternator light and a rising temp gauge... It damaged the plastic timing belt covers too.