Fitting ATI Damper
 

need to fit an ATI damper but i dont have and probably wont be able to get a special tool here in the uk to install it. so.... how are ppl doing it? plenty if lube + threaded bar and nut?

yep you got it!


*edit* Pile up 4-5 thick washers between the balancer and the nut, this way the washers will not distort into balancer hole.

Hit with hammer. Seriously, hit with rubber mallet to seat it on.




BogusSVO, do you mean put washers under the crank bolt that secures the damper to the crank?

no, get an extra long bolt or all thread that will screw into the crank snout, then slide the balancer on, then a pile of washers, then a nut
lock the crank up in a safe fashion.

Then use the nut to push the balancer on.

Everyone I have talked to (including ATI) says the crank needs to be honed for the pulley. I bought a used built engine not too long ago that had an ATI damper on it... It has been sitting with the puller on it for several days on a very high tension... it won't come off. My mechanic says it is at the point where it will be broken if removed... The conclusion my mechanic and the machine shop we had who also tried to remove it, is that the crank was not honed for the install. Be careful!

spoke to Keith at FM and he said they have never had to do any machining work to fit an ATI damper. maybe yours was fitted dry?? the dimensions should defo be checked though to obtain the correct interference fit.

There are clearance specs that ATI states. Measure measure measure.

Luke..... How do you "hone" a crank????

I know you can polish a crank, I know you can Grind a crank.

But to hone a crank is a new one on me.

But what I would take away is that ATI did not finish hone the ID of the balancer to have a proper press fit that is firm but not excessive.

THAT would be a fault on the part of ATI.

Thanks for the heads up, I will be sure to measure one before install.

if ATI know the size of the crank snout and know what clearance they want then the part should be made the correct size. i know there are always manufacturing tolerances but these are very small. if any material needs to be removed it will be very minimal.

I couldn't tell you. Thats just what I've been told. There's a reason I am not doing this work myself :noob:

I used 600 grit sand paper, and "polished" the crank. Then I used plenty of lube, and it went on only slightly tighter than the OEM crank pulley..

Luke, We were all noobs at some point in time.

I think you confused a part and procedure.

You can hone the ID of the balancer to fit the crank would be understandable.

Keep reading! You will get there one day Grasshopper! :)

That would make more sense. Especially because it would be a giant pain in the ass if you're ever installing the damper on an installed engine.

Sean pulled my damper off my motor while it was still in the car.

We used a standard cheapo 3 bolt puller. It took a lot of heave-ho but it came off.

Sean is also a class A mechanic.

It's supposed to fit tight - extremely tight. You need to make sure you get the right lubricant on there - I think my ATI damper came with a little single serve packet. It makes it a hell of a lot easier to install if you've got the correct tool with the ball bearing on it as well. I helped my builder remove it at one point, and then reinstall it. It was definitely tight, but nothing resembling "impossible"

IIRC it's the bore in the pulley you hone to match your crank to some kind of clearance.

the balancer hub has to be honed to spec, everyone had tolorances, so measure. i took a square key and ground it to fit flush in the bore of the balancer hub, and then used a hone to get it correct, use anti seize grease, and go to a local engine machine shop and see if you can barrow or rent there balancer installer. it has a thrust bearing that sits on the balancer so there is no binding or friction when you install, and its still not easy. they are very tight....... like a tiger