Forged pistons with 1.8 engine
this **** is starting to get annoying
04-30-2011, 08:05 PM
#43
Elite Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,642
Total Cats: 36
Man, you guys are ******* ********.
OP, here is what you do:
First off, you are dead on about getting a block with low mileage. By 100K cast iron is significanly weaker due to the sheer number of heat cycles it has been through REGARDLESS of the differences between highway miles and stop and go traffic. Beyond the simple strength of a new block, it will flex less, meaning you are going to have a much more consistent tune. Honestly, I would get a new block from the factory. They are still available if you contact the right dealer.
Next, ditch the stock rods. Forged pistons will not only handle the boost better, they will also be lighter, meaning you can rev faster.
For an ECU, you should skip all the lame stuff like MegaSquirt and go strait for a MOTEC setup. More expensive and more complex maybe, but if you want to do this right, its the way to go.
T3 turbos are pretty much old news. While T3/T4s can definitely work, personal opinion is that you need a S500 series turbo to run that kind of boost consitently. Old Garret stuff is too sensitive to the ambient temp and other factors.
Finnally, what trans will you use? Thats where you will need to really do your homework on this. Some people swear by the 6 speeds, particularly later year MS units, but IMHO something along the lines of a w58 trans from a Toyo is going to be more reliable.
Keep in mind that people get all hung-up on power levels online. Ask anyone on the street actually doing some real-deal highway roll-on racing and they will tell you that a 500HP high boost car can take a car making slightly more power but a bit less boost simply because the higher boost car make more TQ. TQ matters, not some dyno plot that only measures HP.
I dont blame you for not staying on this forum. Frankly most of the really helpful, knowledgeable people are over on the Club Roadster forums and Miata.net.
Good Luck!
OP, here is what you do:
First off, you are dead on about getting a block with low mileage. By 100K cast iron is significanly weaker due to the sheer number of heat cycles it has been through REGARDLESS of the differences between highway miles and stop and go traffic. Beyond the simple strength of a new block, it will flex less, meaning you are going to have a much more consistent tune. Honestly, I would get a new block from the factory. They are still available if you contact the right dealer.
Next, ditch the stock rods. Forged pistons will not only handle the boost better, they will also be lighter, meaning you can rev faster.
For an ECU, you should skip all the lame stuff like MegaSquirt and go strait for a MOTEC setup. More expensive and more complex maybe, but if you want to do this right, its the way to go.
T3 turbos are pretty much old news. While T3/T4s can definitely work, personal opinion is that you need a S500 series turbo to run that kind of boost consitently. Old Garret stuff is too sensitive to the ambient temp and other factors.
Finnally, what trans will you use? Thats where you will need to really do your homework on this. Some people swear by the 6 speeds, particularly later year MS units, but IMHO something along the lines of a w58 trans from a Toyo is going to be more reliable.
Keep in mind that people get all hung-up on power levels online. Ask anyone on the street actually doing some real-deal highway roll-on racing and they will tell you that a 500HP high boost car can take a car making slightly more power but a bit less boost simply because the higher boost car make more TQ. TQ matters, not some dyno plot that only measures HP.
I dont blame you for not staying on this forum. Frankly most of the really helpful, knowledgeable people are over on the Club Roadster forums and Miata.net.
Good Luck!
1
04-30-2011, 09:30 PM
#44
I'm Miserable!
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: albany, ga
Posts: 1,866
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0
04-30-2011, 10:49 PM
#45
Elite Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,642
Total Cats: 36
Someone has been watching the LeMons forums 
0
04-30-2011, 11:02 PM
#46
I'm Miserable!
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: albany, ga
Posts: 1,866
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0
05-01-2011, 03:43 AM
#47
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
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0
05-01-2011, 03:52 AM
#49
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 2,826
Total Cats: 67
Sweet, i was thinking, I respect this guy here, and give props to his sig, now hes pissed off with me.. Aren't I ranting to noobs about their flaming homosexuality around here enough? I know I dont fit in when I tell noobs to shut up and listen rather than just tell them to run a 500 shot.. lol
Cheers mate,
Dann
Cheers mate,
Dann
0
05-01-2011, 12:19 PM
#51
Man, you guys are ******* ********.
OP, here is what you do:
First off, you are dead on about getting a block with low mileage. By 100K cast iron is significanly weaker due to the sheer number of heat cycles it has been through REGARDLESS of the differences between highway miles and stop and go traffic. Beyond the simple strength of a new block, it will flex less, meaning you are going to have a much more consistent tune. Honestly, I would get a new block from the factory. They are still available if you contact the right dealer....
OP, here is what you do:
First off, you are dead on about getting a block with low mileage. By 100K cast iron is significanly weaker due to the sheer number of heat cycles it has been through REGARDLESS of the differences between highway miles and stop and go traffic. Beyond the simple strength of a new block, it will flex less, meaning you are going to have a much more consistent tune. Honestly, I would get a new block from the factory. They are still available if you contact the right dealer....
Keep in mind that people get all hung-up on power levels online. Ask anyone on the street actually doing some real-deal highway roll-on racing and they will tell you that a 500HP high boost car can take a car making slightly more power but a bit less boost simply because the higher boost car make more TQ. TQ matters, not some dyno plot that only measures HP.
I dont blame you for not staying on this forum. Frankly most of the really helpful, knowledgeable people are over on the Club Roadster forums and Miata.net.
Good Luck!
I dont blame you for not staying on this forum. Frankly most of the really helpful, knowledgeable people are over on the Club Roadster forums and Miata.net.
Good Luck!
0
05-01-2011, 08:03 PM
#56
ya all you tasty danish **** are ricers. all kc is either ricer or mustangs. eat **** ***. and everyone else... wats up with all the gay ****?? you keep posting your favorites on the forum.. not the right place. and troll troll troll... idc wat the **** u call me.. u would sit there and jack off to my picture... all this gay posted stuff coming from grown men in miatas... cool real cool
I was under the impression that fighter jets that say US NAVY across the side were not rice, but I guess I was wrong. Hey can you teach me to run 20psi too? My old rx-7 only ran 14, granted it broke the tires loose in 3rd gear, but boost is what matters amirite?
0
05-01-2011, 09:00 PM
#57
I'm Miserable!
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: albany, ga
Posts: 1,866
Total Cats: 0
0
