light engine build
#1
light engine build
I recently inherited a short block for free and want to do a light build on the side. I want something that's good for 300whp, not really much more. I'm thinking for the bottom end go with m-tuned rods, ACL bearings and (new) stock pistons. Along with the billet oil pump, anything else I should look into doing?
As for the head, I have a fully ported head with some valve work going in. Keeping the stock cams and just some adjustable gears. I'm looking into doing a bit more with the valvetrain so I can rev it up to 8k without much worry.
The plan is to max the GReddy turbo out with some water injection. See what I can get out of it before the turbo ***** itself.
I recently ran a Hill Climb and realize I need more power to compete in my class.
Or the other option is run the stock engine up until it blows
Comments?
As for the head, I have a fully ported head with some valve work going in. Keeping the stock cams and just some adjustable gears. I'm looking into doing a bit more with the valvetrain so I can rev it up to 8k without much worry.
The plan is to max the GReddy turbo out with some water injection. See what I can get out of it before the turbo ***** itself.
I recently ran a Hill Climb and realize I need more power to compete in my class.
Or the other option is run the stock engine up until it blows
Comments?
#2
I would put eagle rods in it with some npr pistons or w/e they are stock replacements. then i would run your current motor up until it blows and have your backup ready to go in. only thing is its quite possible that if you throw a rod you will bend valves but that could be an opportunity to port it and go with bigger valves and such.
#3
That's basically the plan.
What about these pistons?
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carc...HC_Piston.html
I have a spare head with a full port job sitting on the side waiting to go in.
What about these pistons?
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carc...HC_Piston.html
I have a spare head with a full port job sitting on the side waiting to go in.
#4
Those should do good. Just know that with stock pistons theres no room for error when tuning it has to be spot on or your gonna melt them. if your planning on tunning it yourself and have lil or no previous tunning experience get a good feel for how its done with your stock motor before attempting it with the new one.
#5
If you are planning to run it at that RPM, there is a strong argument for lighter piston. I don't have the specs in front of me, but I believe that forged pistons are in genreal lighter than stock cast pistons. Every bit of weight helps at that RPM and that much power. I would seriously look into a set of forged pistons. While you're in there, go with an overbore for a bit more displacement.
I also get a sense of "budget" in your writing, but a lot of guys who run the ATI dampner swear by them.
Adjustable camgears are cheap and gives you an extra variable for tuning.
But seriously, you're talking about $2k for a mild motor rebuild no matter how cheap you go... if that's the case, might as well start with a 1.8 block. Get the ETD manifold swap, pick up a ton of power and not have to run the Greddy at it's max limits. In the end, the difference between building your 1.6 vs. building your 1.8 is the cost of the manifold and a blown 1.8... but the results will be more power on less boost and more overhead.
I also get a sense of "budget" in your writing, but a lot of guys who run the ATI dampner swear by them.
Adjustable camgears are cheap and gives you an extra variable for tuning.
But seriously, you're talking about $2k for a mild motor rebuild no matter how cheap you go... if that's the case, might as well start with a 1.8 block. Get the ETD manifold swap, pick up a ton of power and not have to run the Greddy at it's max limits. In the end, the difference between building your 1.6 vs. building your 1.8 is the cost of the manifold and a blown 1.8... but the results will be more power on less boost and more overhead.
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