Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.
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Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats. (https://www.miataturbo.net/)
-   Engine Performance (https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/)
-   -   Glittery Oil (https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/glittery-oil-96293/)

pmhellings 03-06-2018 08:00 AM
Glittery Oil
 
My last two oil changes have shown some "glitter" in the oil. The first time I assumed ( hoped) it was just dirt or something in the catch pan. Last oil change I cleaned the pan out thoroughly before draining the engine. Still had glitter. I checked with a magnet and it seems that the glitter is not magnetic, although it was hard to tell for sure given the oil sort of coated the magnet.

The engine has 110k, oil changed every 5k miles with synthetic. Boosted at 12# and not tracked and not really beaten on much. Uses no oil or coolant, plugs are uniformly clean and tan and engine runs well. Tune is pretty conservative but a few degrees of timing hotter than the FM base tune on the Hydra. Data logs show no knocking, so all should be good. Except there's glitter in the oil.

Any guesses as as to what is going on? Wouldn't any piston damage to detonation go out the tailpipe? Beating down the valves? VVT head is stock, but I ususally shift before 7k rpm. No valve train noise is evident.

Suggestions?

Paul

4strings 03-06-2018 08:18 AM
Send it to Blackstone labs? It's fairly cheap.

x_25 03-06-2018 08:35 AM
Might be bearings. Send a sample to blackstone.

You can also cut open the oil filter and see just how much is in there.

ryansmoneypit 03-06-2018 09:11 AM
or just kep driving it till something happens. If you send the oil off and it comes back bad, you are possibly looking at a rebuild. If you drive it and it actually begins to knock, then you know it was a problem and needs to be rebuilt. Its not like you can remedy the situation with magic aditives after a Blackstone analysis. if its dying, its dying.

pmhellings 03-06-2018 09:26 AM
Plan for a while has been to build a new engine to swap in. I probably need to push that forward. A little bit. Maybe turn the boost down a little too.

Paul

tyhackman15 03-06-2018 10:09 AM
Glitter that isn't magnetic makes me think bearings. Run a little thicker oil and keep your fingers crossed. What oil have you been running previously?

pdexta 03-06-2018 10:43 AM
Originally Posted by pmhellings (Post 1470266)
Maybe turn the boost down a little too.
Oh now don't you even talk like that!

Your bearings don't care how much boost your running (within reason and on a safe tune). If it's going to die, it's going to die, better to send it off in a blaze of glory than to send it to it's deathbed prematurely.

pmhellings 03-06-2018 12:10 PM
Originally Posted by tyhackman15 (Post 1470273)
Glitter that isn't magnetic makes me think bearings. Run a little thicker oil and keep your fingers crossed. What oil have you been running previously?
I've been running Mobil 1 10w-30. Change every 5k. In Florida so could go a little thicker. So, I'm at least 12k miles into this issue. I was going to next, forged motor myself, even bought a block that had been "rebuilt" with forged rods and pistons and I was going to go thru itand verify/ upgrade. Turns out it had forged rods but everything else stock and the engine was filthy inside with gunk and the cylinder walls had never even been honed. Sold the engine for what I paid ( and told the buyer what I found).

A little gun shy on the build now after reading that you have to calculate bolt stretch, not torque stuff. My last engine build was a small block Chevy about 45 years ago. Maybe a new turbo engine needs a finer touch than I've got. Anyone have a recommendation for a good builder in Northeast or Central Florida?

Paul

SpartanSV 03-06-2018 12:52 PM
What fasteners require measuring bolt stretch? I assembled a bp this winter and didn't see anything that didn't list an actual torque number.

These are simple engines. If you have any prior engine assembly experience then you're more than qualified to do it yourself IMO.

hi_im_sean 03-06-2018 12:58 PM
Originally Posted by SpartanSV (Post 1470313)
What fasteners require measuring bolt stretch? I assembled a bp this winter and didn't see anything that didn't list an actual torque number.

These are simple engines. If you have any prior engine assembly experience then you're more than qualified to do it yourself IMO.
The rod bolts. Not that they require it, but its the best way to do it. Some might even say its the only proper way to do it. And I agree with them.

SpartanSV 03-06-2018 01:25 PM
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean (Post 1470316)
The rod bolts. Not that they require it, but its the best way to do it. Some might even say its the only proper way to do it. And I agree with them.
I used ebay rods with ARP bolts. They list a stretch method and give a torque spec for those without a stretch gauge.

You're right, measuring stretch would be best, but If that is what is keeping OP from assembling himself then I feel he should be aware that isn't the only option.

sixshooter 03-06-2018 02:18 PM
Mazworx in Orlando is highly competent as an engine builder. The owner is a friend. He also CNC machines SR20 and 2JZ engine blocks out of billet aluminum, lol. He built my engine and Tony Montana's engine.

He built an SR20 motor that makes over 1400whp for a customer, FWIW.

http://www.mazworx.com/

pmhellings 03-06-2018 02:38 PM
Originally Posted by sixshooter (Post 1470333)
Mazworx in Orlando is highly competent as an engine builder. The owner is a friend. He also CNC machines SR20 and 2JZ engine blocks out of billet aluminum, lol. He built my engine and Tony Montana's engine.

He built an SR20 motor that makes over 1400whp for a customer, FWIW.

Mazworx
Thanks, I'll check it out.

Paul

Savington 03-06-2018 02:54 PM
Originally Posted by SpartanSV (Post 1470323)
I used ebay rods with ARP bolts. They list a stretch method and give a torque spec for those without a stretch gauge.
The deviation from the published spec required to achieve the listed stretch on ARP rod bolts would surprise you.

Neilv 03-06-2018 03:03 PM
Originally Posted by pmhellings (Post 1470306)


I've been running Mobil 1 10w-30. Change every 5k.
Has no one seen this? Every time I hear a bad engine story from not pushing it its 75% Mobil 1 and 25% royal purple.

hi_im_sean 03-06-2018 03:11 PM
Geez, can we please not go there?

sixshooter 03-06-2018 03:31 PM
Originally Posted by Neilv (Post 1470343)
Has no one seen this? Every time I hear a bad engine story from not pushing it its 75% Mobil 1 and 25% royal purple.
I thought it but I didn't say it.

Blkbrd69 03-06-2018 03:55 PM
Blackstone

ryansmoneypit 03-06-2018 04:09 PM
waste of time^^^

pmhellings 03-06-2018 06:53 PM
So what's the problem with that?
 
Originally Posted by Neilv (Post 1470343)
Has no one seen this? Every time I hear a bad engine story from not pushing it its 75% Mobil 1 and 25% royal purple.
Please let me in on the joke....what's wrong with Mobile 1 Synthetic? Or what was it that I wrote that is amusing? As far as "not pushing it" I'm talking about RPM. I find the car is quicker shifting at about 6800 and since I'm on a stock damper and stock head revving over 7k is not only not productive but inviting oil pump failure.

So....what???

Paul


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