Did you fuck with the timing at all?

I haven't looked at too many 2871 dynos, but it seemed like it took a while to spool then once it got there, it dropped off. It looked as if the turbo was too big for the engine, but without the peak numbers, which would indicate a lack of flow.

It sounds like the first thing to do will be to get your exhaust flowing better, then maybe an intake manifold followed by larger valves

I dont know if this is my best plot, but this is my set up. 1.8 built. BEGI cast mani. +1mm valves, 3" DP and exhaust.
This is about 1.5yrs old. I also have a gutted 99 intake. Thats not helping my spool.
gt2871r.

My point is, I believe you can do better. Esp with it being a 1.9??

Dynos make what they make. Any dyno operator can fuck with the numbers as he pleases and one of them leave their baseline as is. I've been on dynojets that are spot on with a fairly close drivetrain loss estimate and I've seen Mustang dynos that were jacked up from their "heartbreaker" numbers.

You get a baseline, you get it tuned, you get a final number, you compare the difference. That's what dynos are for.

I'd much rather have a dyno operator that knows what the fuck he's doing than some moron on the "most accurate dyno in the world".

And BTW, any good tuner knows the tuning differences from Dynojets that most owners don't set up for load (though they can), and a street tune. If you think you need a load bearing dyno to properly tune a car you really need more tuning time to know what the hell you're doing.

gj wes

BEGI cast mani is ambiguous, but I'm assuming you mean the turbo/exhaust manifold. I'm not super experienced with this stuff, but your torque curve doesn't look too much better than his. Torque (minus velocity-based losses) is directly related to acceleration, so a flat torque curve will yield a nice, smooth "close-to-constant" acceleration. I don't imagine that weird mountain looking thing going on in there is very smooth to drive.

I think a good intake manifold like the honda skunk w/ BP flange welded on, should prevent the torque curve from going limp like that without taking away too much low/mid-range.

Damn guys quit gangbanging the frikken intake manifold wagon. There are lots of 350+ hp miatas out there with stock intake manis.

There's lots of other shit in the car that affects the numbers not to mention the frikken tune, the damn boost control system, heatsoak etc...

You know for all the cheering about intakes I haven't seen -one- real back to back same day pull with the ONLY change being the intake swap out.

Show us ALL THE examples.
If he's holding a pre-set pressure level all the way to redline what the fuck else would you IMPROVE on in the boost control system?

There are many here that have shown before and after dyno sheets. The numbers don't lie.

If you're going to go against the majority of members on here in your way of thought you better provide some damn good examples to validate your reasoning.

So far only thing you've shown is how badly someone could fuck up a frame rail with a hack saw.

Not the same day, but the same dyno. Only other change is VVT, but I have another dyno graph proving that doesn't make more than 5-10whp difference.

Attachment 195706

So yeah, only like a ~30whp difference.

Allright, here's a few:

http://flyinmiata.com/tech/dyno.php

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=342323

And here, Jay's done it.

And that's just FM charts and you know there's many "FM cars" more out there which aren't on that website.

Sav, I saw your graph and I "believe" but for the $, when it comes time for me to try one out I will do a same day back to back.

18psi if you really believe that having an IM is a prerequisite 300+whp that's asanine. If your turbo can handle it, moar boost will get you there. Don't be obtuse. As I said before, have you considered the frikken map? He didn't reply to my question about timing. Maybe his map is fucked, maybe the timing is untuned. Regardless, he can easily see over 300 with bigger injectors and more fuel. BTW it was a sawzall...

I also don't like this shit too much because while the intake is not a closed system, it seems like the forum (collectively) is forgoing engineering. Does anyone know what the volume of a stock intake + runners is? What is the volume of X replacement? With the runner length, what power band should we expect to improve? What's the volume of the plenum and how does it compare to a stocker?

I understand strapping one on and seeing what kind of difference it makes but who knows, maybe the results would be much more dramatic if it was sized properly and most of the intakes I've seen out there are smaller than what the maths tell me they should be.

If you say BEGi cast mani, it's known what you're talking about.

So your argument is that because we cannot spend the money to fully optimize the intake manifold, we shouldn't bother at all? I've gotten a quote for the kind of engineering work you're talking about, and it goes way, way beyond plenum size and runner length. Throat angles, cross-sectional area at several points down the runner, portmatching, etc, etc. Just the design quote was more than I have into my current IM, and then they wanted like 2-3x that for sheetmetal fabrication. It might get me 60whp instead of 30, and it might get me 35. Someday when I shit gold I'll go have that done, but in the meantime I'll put my money into other places.

You can raise pressure or increase flow. Or both.
Reason people on here get bigger turbo's, head work, cams, tubular exhaust manifolds, and free flowing exhausts is why?
FLOW.
More flow = less heat = more power at less pressure.


I get your point about no one REALLY doing thorough tests on stock im vs the sheetmetal ones, but then no one REALLY did any tests on the absurdflow and other tubular exhaust manifolds either to prove that they flow better than the BEGi log, yet everyone and their mother will agree that they flow more.

Still ambiguous ;) despite context clues and assumption through understanding of general forum dialect, I still dislike that I thought he may have had a BEGi cast intake manifold when I first read it ^_^

Exactly. Intake manifolds can get real expensive, real quick. Not only is proper design expensive but also the fabrication.

The honda skunk manifold is popular and therefore "gangbanged" because it is cheap and proven to be effective on a similar engine.

levnubin is in florida

Ok this is the shit that bugs me. Just because everyone thinks a part is better doesn't mean that it is better part. What's missing is the quantification. That is the distinction between theory and practice right? And since we're spending our $ on it we should take the time to find out what the specific improvements are (if any).

I will paypal anyone who has a NB mani the $ for a back to back dyno on the hybrid and stock mani, with fueling adjust for the same AFR targets.

Ok this is the shit that bugs me. Just because everyone thinks a part is better doesn't mean that it is better part. What's missing is the quantification. That is the distinction between theory and practice right? And since we're spending our $ on it we should take the time to find out what the specific improvements are (if any).

I will paypal anyone who has a NB mani the $ for a back to back dyno on the hybrid and stock mani, with fueling adjust for the same AFR targets

We aren't fools, we think the parts are better because people have seen specific results that show it. Trey picked up 800rpm of spool going from a BEGi cast manifold to his AF setup with no other changes. Same turbo, same catback exhaust, same intake manifold, same AFR targets. Sure, nobody bolted each one to a flowbench, but most of us don't have the resources to make those measurements.

Can you provide an example of a part that everyone assumes is better without any evidence at all?

How about some more details here. Are you looking for the only change to be just an intake manifold? If so, good luck because most people also change out the throttle body as well as alter the cold side intercooler piping. All of these items make a difference. Are you also willing to cover the entire dyno cost, not just the one money pull?

stock vs modified Intake + TB + intake piping makes sense. I'd pay $100 for the comparison. That would be worth the r&d time to me. Preferably on a larger frame higher boost setup like yours.