has anyone made "big-power" on belfab/etd/probe/CAT rods yet?
 

I'm about to give the boost controller a twist with my gt2860rs, but don't want to be the first guy to push the limits with these rods. I played with a 240whp car yesterday, and it was a pretty close race all the way up, and I slightly pulled at 10psi, lol.

This turbo is supposed to be really happy at 18psi...so maybe I'll put down 300+whp in the near future. One step at a time of course, and I don't want to bend up rods.

Time for 15psi?

Those rods will not bend. Period. /thread.

Is your fuel map set up to twist the boost controller?

I will have my belfab setup running in the couple of weeks so I am also curious of this. My research so far has shown 20-22psi is safe with good tune.

I have no experience, but I would not hesitate to run 20psi.

So you're not worried about shredding you transmission anymore?

No issues at all.. I ran the same (supplier) rods that we sell, but a B18 Honda version in the 650+hp range without an issue. That was 30psi on a GT4088r.

I put in the Walbro 255 and after retuning my max duty went from 100% to 64%. What's max reasonable duty?

I think I heard like 85% or something like that a while back

I have a sixer lined up.

conservative max is 80%. given your serious anxiety, you should run below that.

or less than 300 rwhp on 550 cc injectors.

I'm running high 70s, wouldn't hesitate to go up to 85% but not beyond it. I have 460s though.

Around 80-85, the injectors don't close. I wouldn't "not hesitate" to run 85%. Because at that level, it's VERY close to going over. You will have hell tuning around that duty cycle. I'd stay below 80% as y8s suggested. If you need more fuel, adjust base pressure. Much better solution IMO.

I would get bigger injectors and turn that bitch up.
I ran 18lbs several times for an entire season on stock rods.
It failed because of a stock rod bolt. Not because the rods gave up. So I think you should go for it ;)

I dont see why you cant run 18psi with your setup. raise it slowly 2-3 psi at a time and log...keep an eye on afr and knock sensor as you do.

I cant even imagine how fucking badass 18psi on your setup would feel.....cant wait to start my build.

Interesting. I seem to get decent resolution up there. 81.5% DC, 11.2ish:1, 14psi. I wonder if I need a fuel pump.

dont know about miata's, but with subaru's/evo's people run 80-90-95-and even 100% idc's and I have not seen a problem yet. Sure its not good and pushing them way too much, but that doesnt automatically mean they will shit themselves right away. Mellon tuning owner has been running his evo at 117% idc's before actually started to run out of fuel. the car drove like that for a month before one of the injectors started tweaking.

anyways: over 80 is pushing it.

ummm...

117% duty cycle?

you know thats impossible, right?

100% = open all the time. you cant make the thing stay open more than all the time... lol

Stephen Hawking tuned this car and opened a worm-hole into a new quantum where duty cycles defy convention.

Glad to see your balls are dropping.

You're just glad to see his balls.

:riaa: true

Do you guys want me to post up the logs or something? I have tons and tons of logs for subaru wrx's, sti's, and evo's with over 100% duty cycles. I KNOW that its impossible to go over 100%, but the logs/software showed what they showed, and I am not lying or exhaggerating at all. I think maybe the ecu shows them a good bit higher than they actually are to keep things safe? I dont know the reason behind the higher readings but I do know that on my own subaru with 565's I was at 107% idc's before the car truly started to run out of fuel.

My 550 rx7's tested at 580 to 590. Add to that higher than stock fuel pressure I can see a set of 550's actually running closer to 600-625. I'd guess that's how you can get past 100% duty cycle.

You can't go over 100% of anything...

If the computer showed 110% duty cycle, that just means it's saying you NEED that much fuel to run the AFR it's trying to do at a given RPM and load. A fuel injector is only going to operate from zero to around 85 percent duty cycle, then it will jump straight to 100%.

I think the confusion is about the 100%. That means they're open all the time and not closing, right? So you can't get more open then open hence the confusion about duty cycles greater than 100%.

can we please not gay-up my thread with this dividing by zero bullshit?

look at my duty here:
http://i40.tinypic.com/av23c6.png
yes, I've fixed the map problem since, but don't have the newest log at work.

Does Since I'm at 70% duty, does that mean I need more fuel pressure?

Your wastegate sucks. If you're below 80%, you're fine. More fuel pressure won't hurt anything though, but would require you do to something simple like install an adjustable regulator.

whipple-wastegate. I plan on raising boost until the wastegate can cope. If I need an external gate...then I'll just get the checkbook out again.

I love my $70 shipped 38mm knockoff tial external WG. Fucking gets the job done like a champ. It's nice. And consider I'm running an even bigger turbo than you, and I can run 8 pounds to redline if I want.

Is there a cheap, stock replacement, higher pressure FPR, or do I have to buy the Aeromotive piece?

you're afrs are like 11:1, lean them out and then see what your duty cycles are

11.5 is target for a track car like mine.

11.5 is my target at full boost too. Reliability>10 more hp. I'll run 11.5:1 and run an extra pound of boost, make the same power, and have a more reliable setup.

What'd you end up doing to fix it?

inline fuel filter

recent log:
http://i42.tinypic.com/2jbn09y.png
now I'm fixing the spikey AFR signal.

in your log it looks more like 11.0:1 towards redline, i didn't suggest leaning it out for more power but if you're getting towards the safetly limits of your injectors, going to 11.8:1 could lower your duty cycle 10%

my car went from like 75% to 60% going from like 10.5:1 to 11.8:1