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I agree with 18psi, just get the flywheel resurfaced and get the fm stage 2 clutch, it's way cheaper and will be perfect for your power levels. I fucked around with a couple clutches and eventually got the fm stage 1 and have 0 regrets, the fm clutches are awesome.
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 732663)
Guess the clutch is DONE-zo.
Definitely not supposed to just drop down like that. I guess all the bolts came out. Do yourself a favor: if this one ends up needing replacement, DO NOT get another pucked clutch. That is about the only thing I regretted doing on this car. Its just way to aggressive for daily driving. |
I ordered the FMII earlier today, should be at my door step sometime Friday. I really didn't like the 6 puck for every day driving, and in the summer, thats what this car is. People seem to like the FMII for this purpose so I figured I would give it a shot.
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Pretty sure the clunking noises I heard we from inside the tranny lol. I think maybe it didn't like the flat shifting I was doing 5 minutes prior to the incident? Unless it was a direct result of the pilot bearing slipping out of place and the input shaft flopping around just enough to upset the internals of the tranny? Should have spun the input shaft by hand when I got the damn thing out of the car. It doesn't sound normal at all, there is a lot of clunking around in there. I'm about to do a search but any input on which trannys I can use would be helpful. I really doubt I can get a 6-speed locally and I need the car running this week!
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Any box from 89 through to 2004? (basically MK1 - MK2.5), will fit. Later boxes have stronger synchros IIRC.
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*cells
*phew *through *taping *loctite *too *were *trannies MT is slacking. If I were you I'd pull the transmission again, and take a good look at the input shaft and the throwout bearing. But especially the input shaft. |
Was the fluid level good before you drained it. Also, hook a drill or something to the input shaft and turn the trans while it is out of the car in each gear and see if there is clunking. If not, a new 5 speed is like 100 bucks.
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I know the fluid level was good because I checked it a week before I sold it to him. And changed it a couple months before that.
I guess 300whp + flat foot shifting = trans decided to call it quits? Like mentioned already, you can use any manual trans 89-05 but I'd urge you to try to get a 99+ because they're much nicer IMO (synchros and shift feel). Otherwise just like you said: if you plan on staying at this power level or turning it up more, you WILL need something aside from a stock miata 5speed. This is THE EXACT reason why I babied that car so much: I knew if I drove it hard at that power level the transmission would shit the bed. Everyone kept telling me to turn up the boost and drive it like a man, etc. LOL this is why I played it safe. Even had a spare 5sp sitting in the garage the whole time for this exact reason. But the one on there never broke because I hardly ever abused it. But hey, the 5 speeds are dirt cheap, slap one in there for a hundred bux and start looking for a 6 speed. Then when you have a 6speed turn up the boost and LET ER RIP:D |
Originally Posted by kotomile
(Post 734039)
*cells
*phew *through *taping *loctite *too *were *trannies MT is slacking. If I were you I'd pull the transmission again, and take a good look at the input shaft and the throwout bearing. But especially the input shaft.
Originally Posted by chicksdigmiatas
(Post 734060)
Was the fluid level good before you drained it. Also, hook a drill or something to the input shaft and turn the trans while it is out of the car in each gear and see if there is clunking. If not, a new 5 speed is like 100 bucks.
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 734089)
But hey, the 5 speeds are dirt cheap, slap one in there for a hundred bux and start looking for a 6 speed. Then when you have a 6speed turn up the boost and LET ER RIP:D |
So I bought that trans from the yard, going to run some cheap fluid for a week or two just as a break in for the trans before I put motorcraft fluid in there. All I can find is use gl-4 not gl-5 in the tranny.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...___#fragment-2 Will this oil be ok for the couple weeks it will be used for? I will be putting some miles on the car next weekend, going to Syracuse for my cousins wedding "2 hours from here", than driving back home and than to niagara falls canada for a mazda meet and maybe a BMW meet that same day back in the states about an hour from the border. Car will probably see some wot pulls but I won't be to harsh on it. Will said oil be ok, or is there something better on the cheap that I can use for the time being? I did some reading last night and found some good info on 5 and 6 speeds, still going threw it all. But with the new 5 speed I have now, it will give me time to piece together a beefy 6 speed. I still have to learn about gear ratios and what not. I would like to go faster than 130 which for my car is at 7k in 5th gear. Actually, I completely forgot about this gearing calculator that I was using when I was looking at an LSD for my E36. http://www.diffsonline.com/techinfo/index.shtml Just download the excel file and key in your gear ratios. Couldn't be any simpler :D |
Originally Posted by Snowboardinwny
(Post 734371)
Actually, I completely forgot about this gearing calculator that I was using when I was looking at an LSD for my E36.
http://www.diffsonline.com/techinfo/index.shtml Just download the excel file and key in your gear ratios. Couldn't be any simpler :D |
No problem!
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Ok, tranny is in and everything, almost everything, is back on the car. Car is still on stands and I turned it on and put it in first. The clutch engages practically at the bottom of the floor. And this is after I adjusted the adjustment bolt down by the pedal. The bolt is out as far as I trusted it. It is only being held on by a couple threads. This doesn't seem normal at all, thinking it's related to the flywheel being resurfaced, not sure how much they took off. I should have measured it before hand. Is there any other way to adjust the travel other than the bolt by the peddle. Also, there is no less than an inch of freeplay at the top.
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did you bleed the clutch line/slave cylinder?
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I did not, But I wouldn't think that would be the cause as I did not disconnect the line.
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You disconnected the slave when pulling the tranny though, right? Its possible the little piston/rod type thing inside popped out and let some air into the slave.
Just a thought. Not sure if that's your issue, but I had the EXACT same problem when I installed the ACT on there back in the day. Bled the slave and all was well |
Originally Posted by Snowboardinwny
(Post 734797)
-Car is still on stands and I turned it on and put it in first.
-The clutch engages practically at the bottom of the floor. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 734845)
You disconnected the slave when pulling the tranny though, right? Its possible the little piston/rod type thing inside popped out and let some air into the slave.
Just a thought. Not sure if that's your issue, but I had the EXACT same problem when I installed the ACT on there back in the day. Bled the slave and all was well
Originally Posted by MartinezA92
(Post 734848)
Are you guessing that its engaging because the wheels are moving? Because my wheels move even in neutral. Had to ask.
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Originally Posted by Snowboardinwny
(Post 734860)
Good point, I'll bleed it when put the good shit in the trans in a week or so.
No guessing here lol. It just engages way way to low. Hopefully bleeding it will help fix the problem. |
i would not go plucked get a heavy full disk
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