Highest hp 1.6?
Did a search, couldn't turn anything up. Curious who has the highest horse power 1.6 out there. Or the fastest (1/4 mile time) out of a 1.6. Thanks!
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Heard you were going to be shooting for some big numbers...can't wait to see what you come up with
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We'll see... Ive got a radiator and and fans if you want it. Carl told me you might need it.
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HAH! I was watching video's on Matt Farah's (of Garage 419 fame) new site, The Smoking Tire, and knew I had seen that white Miata with red wheels somewhere before. You're famous now. ;)
The Smoking Tire - Part 3 C |
Originally Posted by FastColt
(Post 471016)
We'll see... Ive got a radiator and and fans if you want it. Carl told me you might need it.
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Corksport hit 400rwhp with a 1.6L...didnt last very long, it was a stock motor.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 471280)
Corksport hit 400rwhp with a 1.6L...didnt last very long, it was a stock motor.
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yeah 1.6's are good for 300-400 just like anything else. They are strong the only limits are on your cashpool
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Is there a write up anywhere about the corksport build?
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Originally Posted by levnubhin
(Post 471347)
It's never personal, it's the interweb. Dont correct my spelling ever again; I could write a book regarding your bad grammar. lol
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Stock motor holding 400whp?
This tells me that 300whp can be done and done reliably with the right tuning. I have a hunch that the bent and broken rods are due to the wasted spark setup on our cars, the dsm guys have the same issue at a lil higher power levels at 400whp they bend and break stock rods and at 550-600 or even less on e85 they are throwing eagles all day. I speculate that when you miss fire with wasted spark the fuel/air that is still in the cylinder gets ignited when the plug fires at bdc, the pistons is trying to come up against expanding gasses and the rod is at a terrible ratio with thew piston only half way up in the cylinder. Basically the same effect as detonation but at a point in the stroke where the force is put on the rod while it is at a sharp angle causing it to bend or break much easier then when it is nearly straight up and down. Once my custom manifold is done i will post up some numbers and see if i can change some peoples minds about the integrity of the stock rods. <all speculation, until i have done it or someone else has done it who knows maybe these rods really are only good for 250whp> |
Ummm, funny how that kid thinks his non-lightened Miata with roughly 40-60lbs of extra turbo parts weighs just over 2k lbs. A full interior Miata with hardtop and a full turbo setup will weigh closer to 2340lbs. And that Kurt guy was the idiot who was always bragging up his rear mount setup on a few forums, yet never raced anyone.
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Originally Posted by zoomin
(Post 471399)
Ummm, funny how that kid thinks his non-lightened Miata with roughly 40-60lbs of extra turbo parts weighs just over 2k lbs. A full interior Miata with hardtop and a full turbo setup will weigh closer to 2340lbs. And that Kurt guy was the idiot who was always bragging up his rear mount setup on a few forums, yet never raced anyone.
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Originally Posted by zoomin
(Post 471399)
Ummm, funny how that kid thinks his non-lightened Miata with roughly 40-60lbs of extra turbo parts weighs just over 2k lbs. A full interior Miata with hardtop and a full turbo setup will weigh closer to 2340lbs. And that Kurt guy was the idiot who was always bragging up his rear mount setup on a few forums, yet never raced anyone.
1slowna great explanation, but i was talking about the 1.6 as a fully built engine, not stock rods. I guess i should have asked a different question. Built bottom, fully built head with big cams...seems like theres not a lot of info out there.:confused: |
Why don't you do it and then we'll have a benchmark for the future:)
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I suppose you have seen this recent thread?
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t40385/ |
Originally Posted by FastColt
(Post 471438)
What makes you think my miata is non-lightend? I dont just say shit for no reason.....and since you've never seen my car....assumptions make and ass of ume?
1slowna great explanation, but i was talking about the 1.6 as a fully built engine, not stock rods. I guess i should have asked a different question. Built bottom, fully built head with big cams...seems like theres not a lot of info out there.:confused: |
Originally Posted by zoomin
(Post 471498)
I have put together 3 of these and do sometimes have a clue of what I talk about. How about you show me where you got it down to a bit over 2000lbs and prove my assumption incorrect?? Thanks!
Good find Sentic, thank you very much! |
Originally Posted by 1slowna
(Post 471377)
Stock motor holding 400whp?
This tells me that 300whp can be done and done reliably with the right tuning. I have a hunch that the bent and broken rods are due to the wasted spark setup on our cars, the dsm guys have the same issue at a lil higher power levels at 400whp they bend and break stock rods and at 550-600 or even less on e85 they are throwing eagles all day. I speculate that when you miss fire with wasted spark the fuel/air that is still in the cylinder gets ignited when the plug fires at bdc, the pistons is trying to come up against expanding gasses and the rod is at a terrible ratio with thew piston only half way up in the cylinder. Basically the same effect as detonation but at a point in the stroke where the force is put on the rod while it is at a sharp angle causing it to bend or break much easier then when it is nearly straight up and down. Once my custom manifold is done i will post up some numbers and see if i can change some peoples minds about the integrity of the stock rods. <all speculation, until i have done it or someone else has done it who knows maybe these rods really are only good for 250whp> |
A forged 1.6 can hold power just as well as the next engine. Its just less capable in the long run for more reasons than I feel like explaining.
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