JasonC SBB

No discussion yet of this?:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...e/88114/page1/

I really like the concept.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

What does the J35 do thats worth the extra weight over the K series?

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

Whats the advantage of this? The LS1 is lighter then the J35 series by at least 150 lbs. It weighs in at 5550-575 according to Honda Tuning.
J35/J37 Engine Weight - Honda-Tech

asmasm

iTrader: (1)

Ouch- I'll take a 240 whp k24 over that engine any day.

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

It sticks out of the hood of a civic and "makes so much power and torque stock, no need for mods bro, its stock, ****** stock and ****** fast, bro."

glade

iTrader: (2)

And in that article it said that the weight includes transmission, drive axles, all accessories, ect.

Even cast iron v6's with superchargers (l67) are under 500 pounds

codrus

My understanding is that the vendor says:

- More tq/power than NA K series. 50-100 pounds more weight, but that's similar to what you'd gain with a turbo on the K series.
- Much cheaper and more available than K24 in junkyard. (claim is sub $500 for complete motor)

Compared to moderate turbo BP (2560 with FM kit or the like):

- Similar power/torque
- Uses factory tranny, so no expense/hassle with the tranny, PPF, etc.
- Supposedly more reliable on track (no backing out studs, fewer cooling issues, etc).

Basically it's an alternative to a moderate turbo BP that costs less and delivers NA power rather than boost for less cost than an FM2. Harder to smog if you live in a **** state like CA, though.

Kits aren't shipping yet, so this could all be vaporware.

--Ian

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I thought the J35 only made like 10 more hp than a the good stock K24, and the k24 can hit 300hp N/A pretty easily. I'm still not seeing it.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Seriously? I mean are you even trying here?

WHICH k24? WHICH J35? The work you'd do to the K24 to get to 300 whp would get you a long ways on a J motor.

Not that i'm interested in the swap. But come on.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

needs more h22!

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

The normal K24A2 once its swapped into a car should be around 240hp (200 stock) The common J35Ax seems to make about 255 with bolt ons like a swap would have and has about 210hp stock. Now there are some J35Zs that make 271hp stock but they are only 08+ and arent in minivans so they're going to cost a bunch more money to get and you're going to have to do more work to deal with the drive by wire.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

the comment "get you a long ways on a J motor" is silly, because the J is a turd not worth polishing. its not revvy, its not high flowing, its not uber reliable, its not light.....its not........anything
this swap is probably for those that want to be different

Maybe I'm missing something.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

J35 at 7200 rpms with a proper exhaust is teh secks...

Behind k powered cars, the other cars I've raced the most are/were j-powered. The TL-S I raced made 260whp on NASA's dyno with an intake, exhaust, and reflash. 100% internally stocked, revved to 7500rpm for literally years. The motor currently in the car (and still being raced) has done two NASA 25 hours, three or four VIR 13 hour races , plus ~ 6 years of sprint racing. And I zinged the sh*t out of it more than once.

I think this swap could be amaze ballz

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Someone bought this out of the junkyard on Friday for $175. Just sayin'.

KMiata

Cool idea for a swap, obviously I’m a big fan of Honda engines. We’re biased to the K series obviously, but more options are always good

Can anyone point me to some details about the trans and diff they used?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

They're using Miata stuff like you are.

Sparetire

Except that it does not make near the TQ, so it does not need a massive T-56 or 4L80/4L60 and a Ford 8.8, which is why it ends up about 100 LBs lighter than an LS1 and costs a ton less to do. The LSX is god, but it requires a ton of relatively heavy, relatively expensive stuff to work in a Miata. T-56s are fricken expensive and probably always will be.

If I was pricing this out and I was not fabbing my own parts, I think I could live with ~100LbFt less TQ if it saved me many thousands and a lot of work. If I wanted a 450WHP car on the other hand, yeah, I would not be going with this.

tl;dr Swaps like this make sense if you don't want to replace the whole driveline because they are lighter and they cost many thousands less. Personally I think for me the only ways I would go would be turbo BP , LSX, or maybe K. But a 3.5L making mid to high 200s HP for 6 grand or so is far from the worst value proposition I have seen with these cars. Frankly an LSX Miata makes less and less sense as C5s in good shape get more and more attainable.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I still dont understand the OMG NEED for super crazy diff with the LSx how many of them are really making more torque than soviet's EFR setup or bundy? I'm willing to bet that 90% of the LS swaps would be perfectly fine with an MSM diff and axles. And if you really want to be a weight weenie there's always the gforce geasets for the T5 that should handle the power that most LS swaps put out, sure it ends up costing a grand more than the T56, but you are saving that much by not running an 8.8 or 7.5 rear end.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

soviet and bundy are not popping diffs cause they're popping transmissions. at least bundy is, as is anyone else driving like a man in a 350+ car

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

Once TurboTim gets into serious boost we'll see, he's got a T5 with the stock diff IIRC.