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I recently install a flyin miata custom turbo kit on my 2003 miata. Below is a list of everything currently on the car. Initially I started at 4.5 pounds of boost and made 140whp. After I tuned the fuel table at 4.5 pounds I decided to turn the boost up. Now the car is running 8.5 pounds of boost but is making less then 160whp according to virtual dyno??? This is 20HP short of my 180WHP goal. The car pulls smooth it just isnt making the power I want. Also I think the spark plugs are showing signs of detonation? I have been running datalogs and my AFRs look fine, around 11.5-12.5 under WOT. The engine is in good condition and compression test showed 160 psi across all four cylinders. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks
List of mods:
Flyin Miata Turbo manifold and downpipe
Flyin Miata Intercooler
Garret GT2560R Turbo
AEM FIC6 ECU
AEM X series wideband sensor
Cobalt Dual Tip Muffler
Flyin Miata Sway Bars
NGK BKR7E gapped to 0.032"
The Clutch and Cat are still stock. Below are images of my ignition retard map and also one of my spark plugs I pulled out today.
I am sure you know this, but your clutch will start slipping if it hasn't already. The added torque from the turbo isn't helping it hold, not sure if that's why you are short of your goal but it could be part of it.
Like others said your stock clutch needs to me upgraded. Also you said stock cat and Cobalt muffler. You need at the very least a full 2.5" exhaust if not a 3". You will pick up 20-30whp from a proper exhaust. The plugs look ok, those speckles on the porcelain could be light detonation but it doesn't look bad to me. I'm not super familiar with the aem fic, i would think if your total timing at 8psi is in the 20* range you should be fine.
So far my clutch is holding rock solid. Knock on wood. When I did the compression test the engine had cooled off a little but was still semi-hot, not sure how much that matters. When I put some oil down the spark plug holes my compression went up to 170. I'm pretty sure the tester wasn't sealing 100% though because I could see oil mist coming out of the spark plug hole when it was cranking. I live near Phoenix AZ so i'm at little elevation. The gas here seems pretty terrible. The highest octane is 91 and i've heard the stock engine pinging on that stuff a couple times. The timing is basically the factory map plus the FIC map. So i'm running about 16-22 degress of timing in the 160 kpa row.
So far my clutch is holding rock solid. Knock on wood. When I did the compression test the engine had cooled off a little but was still semi-hot, not sure how much that matters. When I put some oil down the spark plug holes my compression went up to 170. I'm pretty sure the tester wasn't sealing 100% though because I could see oil mist coming out of the spark plug hole when it was cranking. I live near Phoenix AZ so i'm at little elevation. The gas here seems pretty terrible. The highest octane is 91 and i've heard the stock engine pinging on that stuff a couple times. The timing is basically the factory map plus the FIC map. So i'm running about 16-22 degress of timing in the 160 kpa row.
As long as the compression is even across all cylinders you're looking good. Your clutch won't hold when you get a real mans exhaust haha
Yes, the flecks on the porcelain are likely a detonation indication.
I don't know of anyone here running the FIC on our cars.
160whp is 200whp on a Flyin Miata dyno.*
If you were running a megasquirt we would ask you to post logs of the engine running and a copy of your tune. Pretty difficult to see what's going on without more help.
With the 1.75 in stock exhaust you aren't going to make any more power. You ideally need a 3in catalytic converter and Muffler through which a golf ball can pass unimpeded.
*That's a joke but it is very close to being true.
Last edited by sixshooter; 05-10-2019 at 08:20 AM.
I would also think that you would need to upgrade your injectors. I know that isn't your problem now but if you are looking to swap out your exhaust and run near 200whp, the stock injectors won't do the job well.
Thanks for the suggestions. I couldn't find a AEM FIC spark map so I had to make the spark map myself. I have no idea what the factory spark map looks like so I had to guess when I made it. The fuel injectors are already at 100% under full boost so those will need replacing. I thought the stock NB2 injectors were good for 180-200WHP? I guess not.
I was running an MS3X for a short period before switching to the AEM FIC. I had a lot of issues with megasquirt so I gave up and switched. Currently I have closed loop AFR, open loop boost control, ignition mapping and fuel mapping with the FIC. The car runs great and the factory ECU takes care of all the other stuff I don't care about. In case you guys are interested I attached a datalog with some WOT pulls and the file can be opened with the megalog viewer.
What exhaust system do you guys recommend? I would like to keep the exhaust noise level down for highway driving.
Anyone know how much power the Tochigi-Fuji diff can hold?
I think i have the rules of thumb down correctly...but... stock clutch > stock engine > stock transmission. Thats the order at which things needs to get replaced as power goes up. Dont know much about diffs.
As far as exhaust...replace the midpipe with something at least 2.5". Make sure it has a resonator for extra silence...but the turbo should already be doing a good job at cutting decibels.
You should have figured out how to operate the megasquirt. We could have helped.
You won't make enough power with your setup to destroy the TF diff.
All stock injectors are tiny. Making much more than stock power requires raising the fuel pressure significantly and stock pumps aren't always up to the task. It is better to use stock pressure, 400-600 cc injectors, and a megasquirt for around 180-250whp.
For the exhaust a good "muffler shop" can make a 2.5" or 3" set up fairly inexpensive, throw a magnaflow muffler on the back ( don't remember the part numbers) and it won't drone or be terribly loud.
Last edited by 90LowNSlo; 05-12-2019 at 03:17 PM.
Reason: typo
Well, I put the car on jack stands today so I could track down a large oil leak that recently started. I started the car and noticed oil dripping out of the bell housing weep hole. Looks like i'm going to be replacing the clutch sooner then expected. In hindsight I should have did the clutch and rear main when I had the sub frame off. Is there any reason I should spend the extra money on a 3" over a 2.5" exhaust? I don't mind if the spool is a going to be a little slower. Also what are the limitation of 91 octane? I'm wondering if switching to E85 would be necessary to make 200+whp without access to 93?
Well, I put the car on jack stands today so I could track down a large oil leak that recently started. I started the car and noticed oil dripping out of the bell housing weep hole. Looks like i'm going to be replacing the clutch sooner then expected. In hindsight I should have did the clutch and rear main when I had the sub frame off. Is there any reason I should spend the extra money on a 3" over a 2.5" exhaust? I don't mind if the spool is a going to be a little slower. Also what are the limitation of 91 octane? I'm wondering if switching to E85 would be necessary to make 200+whp without access to 93?
More power at less boost, there's no more upgrading past 3 inches and I 100% disagree with you on the spool part. The response is fantastic.
91 octane is more than ok for 200 hp. Just make sure you don't yank someone's timing table that was built on 93 and you'll be just fine.
I haven't used it either but he way I understand it the results rely heavily on the inputted vehicle weight. To make sure as much accuracy as possible I would get the car weighed.
If there aren't any DOT scales near your house you can pay for a cat scale at a truck stop. Pull up to the scale and stop so that the front and rear tires are on different pads. Hit the button for the intercom. They will ask if it's your first weight or a re-weight. Tell them first weight. They'll ask for a truck number, them re-weight. They'll ask for truck number. Make one up (007, 69, 420 A1... What ever). Park, go in and go the the fuel desk (register in the back near truck pumps) tell them you need your scale ticket, they'll ask for the truck number. The first scale ticket is $13 after that they are a dollar each. It will give total weight and weight per axel. I have access to one at my company that is accurate to 20 lbs. My car came in at 2220 lbs with a full tank without me in the car...
Many industries use vehicle scales. Scrap metal yards and places that sell or charge to dump bulk materials like sand, rock, or construction debris often have them near the entrance. Park and go in the scale house and ask nicely if you can drive across the scale and get the weight of your car. The display should be where you can see it while sitting on the scale.
05-09-2019, 06:48 PM
Why am I only making 160WHP
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Is there any reason I should spend the extra money on a 3" over a 2.5" exhaust? I don't mind if the spool is a going to be a little slower. Also what are the limitation of 91 octane? I'm wondering if switching to E85 would be necessary to make 200+whp without access to 93?
