I has a Dremel(r) hood (was: BEGI scooper w/air dam and speed bumps = FAIL)
 

Don't bother mounting one if you need to go over ANY speed bump. My ground clearance went from 13.5cm (almost 5.5") to 8cm (little over 3").

I took one bump at an angle but the next was way out the car's league. After that I saw a 4x4 taking it at 70kmh... :jerkit:

Dremel in hood today. :fawk:

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Ouch.

The scoop was deformed some. I mounted it such that it would not take anything with it and it didn't. I'd hate it to tear my radiator open for example.

I am going this route:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3411/...43d30e71_b.jpg

you don't have to do all that. Just build a chamber in front of the heat exchangers, seal it up, build a tray that goes back to the steering-rack and you won't overheat even with stock fans. At 90* I finally had to turn on the fans and the bottom of my ducting blew out.

My friends miata racecar has a RB bumper and we only have 1"x24" sucking up air for the radiator and it cools fine with a vented hood. Increasing the mouth will not raise pressure in front of the heat exchangers...proper ducting will.

When I picked my car up from BEGI I drove it 2500 miles home. Speed bumps weren't my problem. In Boise ID they don't do speed bumps. They do the reverse. They put dips in the road and call it drainage. No signs anywhere and you can't see them coming at night. Hell you can't see them during the day if you don't know to look for them. Turbo system 2 days old and I hit one of those at 35mph vs the 10 it takes to cross it safely. HARD grounding. Bent some stuff up, thankfully didn't cut any of the lines running around it. Still have mine on though. Thankfully the aluminum is easy to get back into shape.

At 11.5" ride height I've got 4" of clearance with the scooper.

EVANs waterless cooling would be cheaper and easier. I'm probably going that direction.

Chris

I has a Dremel(r) hood
 

Now I never want to see it overheat again. Two hours work, saved weight, looks OK.

I still want to do this but can't find cheap ABS around here.

off topic: Why are you running r888s?

Because it allows me to run the car on the street, Nürburgring and track with the same wheels. I am seeing some rain at the Nürburgring this Monday - so I will be able to report how the hold up under those conditions.

I like it!

In the semi-likely event that I end up with Germany as my next duty station..you have just volunteered yourself to give me a ride on the ring ;) thanks a bunch. :laugh:

Needs more ducting and a wickerbill on the front. You want a low pressure zone above the scoop in addition to the high pressure below it.

And you don't need to use ABS sheet for ducting, although you should be able to order it online or buy it from a glass/ window shop. You could use .5mm-1mm Al sheet, or stainless in a pinch. Also, you can glue Al to the bottom of the hood with the goo that 3m sells to bond Corvette body panels together. We can buy it at auto parts stores here in the states. You might have to go to a body shop supply store or auto paint store over there. It will stick ANYTHING together and you won't have to weld/ rivet anything to the aluminum hood skin, although it's pretty nasty stuff. Don't get it on anything you ever want to use/ wear again.

sorry to thread jack, but could I get fullsize copies of the 3rd and 4th to last pictures for backgrounds?

Also looks like you did pretty good work, how much does what was removed weigh?

Sure, send me your e-mailaddress by pm and I'll attach a ZIP. Too large to put it here apparently...

Weight removal was next to nothing as you can see in the picture. I didn't weight it either.

You mean a raised edge just in front of the gap?
But ABS would be lighter, no?
If I am doing ducting, I will be sealing the bottom of the car. So no glueing to hood there I guess. Thanks for the 3M idea.

Have you tried other tires? R888's are not a fast tire on a Miata. Hell, RA-1s are faster, as are MANY other tires (including NT-01).

Based on? I remember SPEC drivers complaining about wear. My car is far from SPEC.Also, RA-1 and NT-01 are hard to get around here when I looked.

now you just need the v-mount setup to really match splitime....

(A local guy - ringmazda.com - has a V-mount and regrets it. It makes everything much more complicated)

WAT? The R888 are a faster tire than the RA-1's, they just don't last nearly as long, hence the complaints among the SM drivers.

Looks good Spookyfish, good luck at the ring.

A lip in font of the hole, yes. It doesn't have to be very tall to have a drastic effect. Google 'wicker bill' or 'Gurney flap'. The Autoconexion(sp?) hood has a really exaggerated version of what you're looking for.

ABS probably wouldn't be lighter in the kind of thickness you would want to use. It's pretty floppy in sheet form. .040" (1 mm) Aluminum sheet would probably serve you better and be easier to work with.

I meant that you could use the 3M googe to seal ducting to the bottom of the hood. I mentioned this to a body guy friend, and he said that they also sell some spray that goes with it that cures it instantly like super glue accelerator. I've always just let it air dry, but that can take days. I didn't realize that you're supposed to be using the spray stuff. That would make it much less messy.

get a 1/2" "L" shaped piece of metal and rivet it on. It will move a lot of air. Also, look at the Axis Power Racing hood, it has what you want.

I will make a raised edge some day. I did pull the flap down further and that actually makes the air through the radiator want to go out there.

Just bolt this to your hood

Attachment 205037

18x10 Carbon Fiber Hood Vent - $119.00 : Carbontrix, Composites Design and Production
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^^ Word. For quick and relatively cheap I think that is a good route. I almost pulled the trigger on that, but now I am going this way:
ClubRoadster.net