I just bought an F1 Racing 11.7 lb CroMo flywheel
 

I'll be the guinea pig.

awesome. price?

I see it at 195 shipped from ebay. Let us know how it holds up.

I'm thinking about the 8.8 XTD here shortly. Hopefully yours holds good

I already ordered the 9.9 lb one and have been testing it around the neighborhood this week. It will get abused at MSR-H next weekend. I'll post up the results, but so far so good...ubber light for under $200.

Good to hear. Which brand did you go with jacob?

Lol. I ordered the 9lb XTD prolite for 1.6ls today.

I'll let people now how it works in a few months :p

Oh and it was for sale on ebay for 189 + 14shipped. Offered them 170 and a few minutes later I paid for it for 184 to our door.

Some of the flywheels will have the wrong thread 8x1.25mm instead of 8x1.0mm for the bolts that hold the pressure plate down. Just go to the hardware store and pick up new bolts. I would use some medium strength loctite too and possibly lockwashers if the factory uses em too.

I'd suggest being a little careful about picking up pressure plate bolts at the hardware store. Grade 8 bolts are typically used in inch sizes for clutches and flywheels in high performance applications. Metric grade 8.8 is well BELOW inch grade 8 in strength (116K psi vs. 150K psi tensile strength). A metric 10.9 grade bolt has slightly higher tensile and yield strength than a inch grade 8 bolt. No problem if your hardware store stocks 10.9 grade metric bolts but please don't risk grenading your pressure plate through your aluminum bell housing using run of the mill ungraded metric bolts to hold things together at 7,000 rpm.

And I thought I had done well by reducing my stocker to 16lbs....need to make one out of aluminium now. :vash:

I don't think the pp bolts are actually that high of grade hardware- they only torque to 20ftlbs. and only need to manage the torque force of the springs and pedal/slave. Maybe you're thinking of the flywheel bolts? I know the bolts that came with my aluminum fidanza flywheel were nothing exceptional.

I have a friend telling me to get everything balanced if I get that flywheel. Anyone have any trouble without getting theirs balanced?

I'd definitely put a machinist's straight edge on it before installing.

The 1.6 and 1.8 Miata motors are internally balanced, which means the flywheel assembly (flywheel, pressure plate, friction disk) and the dampener are neutral balanced. In "theory", one should have the flywheel assembly neutral balanced as a unit when replacing/swapping parts. I'm kind of struggling with whether or not I should do this when I replace my 1.6 assembly with a 1.8 stock flywheel and an ACT clutch setup. I think I can get away without doing it (stock flywheel and ACT clutch "should" both be neutral balanced) but I'll probably price out the balancing too. I'd really hate to get everything buttoned back up and then discover some "new" engine/driveline vibration.

Oh ok. I didn't know that

Ordered the same one.

Just ordered my XTD pro lite $189 shipped

Xtd prolite ftw! I'm rocking it. Cromo is cromo.

Just got my XTD prolite in. Looks great. Checked one of the old clutch to flywheel bolts and it threads in with 0 issues. The thread issue mentioned above as a possibility... they wouldn't thread into each other right? Having a brain fart moment.

Any updates on guys that have been running it?