I think i need a rebuild
 

So i was seeing some oil smoke coming from the exhaust. I thought that it was coming from the turbo from that time that i accidental kinked the drain line. No such luck, here are the number from my compression test: 166,159,156,167

then i put a tbsp of oil in each cylinder and i got this: 186,177,175,190

I think the rings are just about shot.
So, how much have i screwed up this 78k mile engine?
Is this now a ticking time bomb?
How much longer will this thing last?
Should i just drive at super low boost (WG wired open)till i can afford a new bottom end?

Suggestions?

I don't know, those numbers don't look super horrible to me. Like how much smoke are we talking about? Are you 100% sure it's not your turbo letting oil through?

Yes that sounds like rings but as a machinist I know always says, you never know the whole story till you open it up.

Those aren't terribly "out of spec" numbers and they are fairly consistent. I know new is ~190psi but I recall acceptable being as low as 140psi (correct me if I'm wrong). Is there much oil burned? It's only going to get worse and you'll rapidly accelerate the problem with the application of boost.

it is roughly 1/4 to 1/2 qt every thousand miles. I noticed it today quite a bit when decelerating off of the interstate. The smoke might be a combination of rings and turbo. How would you suggest i go about checking to see if the turbo is the issue?

I doubt its the rings. I had a freind with 90 psi comp on all cylinders and it still did not smoke. I test drove a NA last July and it had 110-138 on all and it did not smoke.

My guess is valve train related. I would not tear it down just yet.

i see gray puffs in the mirror now and again. sometimes it happens at idle. but definitely not consistent.

How can the oil be coming from the valvetrain? Would a catchcan help?

Worn valve stem seals/valve guides will make the car smoke. A catch can is never a bad idea. I ditch the PCV system entirely on all of my cars.

tell us about the oil restrictor for your journal bearing turbo. I don't know what size you need for a journal bearing turbo, but you probably need one. PM Jkav and post the answer.

unless one is designed into the turbo, i don't have one. I would have thought that BEGI would have already thought this one through?

So, are we in agreement that my compression numbers are not too bad. Or should i take it easy and plan a rebuild in the near future?

Was that hot or cold, and with the throttle wide open or shut?

Even if the motor was warm, and throttle wide open, then those numbers are still decent, low side to me, but nothing drastic.

The engine definitely has wear but is acceptable. I'm my experience valve guides only show their leakage after sitting for a while (overnight) not constantly, you never know though.

If you have a complete begi kit installed it should have any required restrictor included. This is not to say the turbo isn't leaking oil.

I'm on the stock pcv system and have had 0 oil burn in 3000km, I'm planning to make a catch can but haven't gotten around to it.

If you have the means and a spare car or engine I'd look into a rebuild but that's me not wanting to possibly destroy a rebuildable engine. People do drive Chrysler's and Honda's with them smoking, I just don't know for how long.

this test was with the motor just below operating temp and with the throttle open. And i did each cylinder twice before recording the number.

And no, i do not have a spare car or motor. this is also my only vehicle. Yes, i know i am an idiot...

It'd be worrisome if the numbers were high at first and then stayed the same with oil. since they all went up more or less evenly across the board, I'd say they are okay.

I'd say drive it then, as long as your not being an asshat all the time you should be fine.

Stupid is me having to pass emissions, think they'll care if I swap ecu's and injectors in the parking lot?:jerkit:

Ya, that is the problem. When i autox, i do drive like a hooligan. Mysterious oil leak aside, can this motor handle a couple autocross sessions?

JKav responded that he doesn't know...

I wouldn't, but 5-6 years ago I blew a couple bp's running at the ragged edge so I'm more cautious now.

Unless someone, who knows what their doing, can drive it and see the engine operate they are just giving an opinion. Even seeing it run it's an opinion (better than over the internet though), I don't think it's ever a good idea to beat on / drive an (shall we say) injured engine but it's your car.

Anyone you know that could take a look?

what would be a good way to trace this oil leak?

Pull a/the ic pipe(s) and check for oil, if so it's turbo or the pcv spitting it in pre turbo thus check there (turbo inlet pipe). If that comes up with nothing it's going to be in the engine and you never know 100% but it would likely be oil rings or valve seals.

Valve seals generally show burning at start up then not much after that, oil rings while the engine's running but there can be exceptions to this.

This is, of course, if by oil leak you are referring to your aforementioned oil burning issue. If not clean everything, drive it for a while then look for the highest oily point.

There is a small amount of oily film in the cold side pipes. The car does not smoke at all on cold starts.

He's jacking with you.

I'm not really sure if you need a restrictor in the journal turbo, but I think I used a .060 to stop the smoke in my old VW.

Worn exhaust stem seals can also puff smoke after letting off on a hard acceleration run. The sudden deep vaccum after letting off the gas will suck it through the seals. I've got 190ish across all cylinders but puff badly when I let off the throttle... as long as you're not blowing smoke on acceleration I'd say roll with it. A worn or over-(oil)pressured turbo journal bearing (as Hustler mentions above) will do the same thing too...

With oil in the pipes (that was pre turbo right?) then it sounds like pvc is one issue. At the very least buy a 323 gtx turbo pcv valve. Contact begi ask about the need for a restrictor and see if you have one. Try cleaning out the ic pipes a bit and check them again after driving to find the leak. As said above decel oil burn can be from the valve seals as well.

If the valve seals are failing they can be replaced without more than removing the cams and lifters, I just did this on my dad's Goldwing. I can't think of a test for them that wouldn't involve doing 90% of the work to replace them, maybe someone else?

Just pointing out the exception, I agree with you, not correcting anything you said...
My 1.6 smokes bad when I let off the throttle, but I also have 190 across all cylinders...

i am working on making a catch can setup. we will see if this makes any difference.

i am also working on contacting BEGI about a restrictor.

A bit old, but did you ever solve this?

Could you please explain to a noob how one would go about compressing the valve springs? I cant see an easy way without pulling the head...

thanks.

Oil restrictor...I forgot, I currently use a pop rivet. I've been using the rivet method on my turbo for the past 34,000 miles. It stupid cheap and so easy. My compression numbers are way lower than yours, and I'm sure my valve seals are shot...my turbo seals may even leak a bit? Moral of the story, keep the boost under 10 psi and just drive the F*ckin thing!

You need compressed air forced in through the spark plug hole to keep the valves from falling in and a spring tool (search). Here is a vid about one tool out there. There are different tools that work different ways, check out a few, there are often vids about how to use them.

If you have doubts about this at all please get some help. I take no responsibility for you causing damage to your engine or making your car undrivable.

X2 my compression on my civic was still good, but my car was blowing smoke from the turbo and the stem seals