p51hellfire

iTrader: (28)

I've read everything about them, however when I'm hand tightening them into the block even with a little extra push with an allen wrench there all uneven as far as how deep they go in, Is this normal or should they all be 100% level? I've read that they should be tightened to the base of the blocks' thread, is this correct?


Note: I've chased the threads with an old stud grinded on one side, (to clean the threads) and I've made sure there is no debris.. thoughts?

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

I'll be doing this in about 7 hours. This thread is relevant to my interests.

Aricjm15

When I installed mine the two at the front of the block sat higher then the rest. I was still able to TQ everything down.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I am pretty sure my head studs were not all the same height either.

Aricjm15

It should look something like this.

baron340

iTrader: (5)

I tightened mine down into the block with a wrench. Not really tight or anything, but I just wasn't comfortable with how high they sat only finger tight.

240_to_miata

iTrader: (2)

I bought a tap and cleaned out each hole prior to my install. I recommend doing the same. I forget the tap size, i can look it up later.

We are rebuilding my friends '99 tonight (haha i left the tap at home..crap) . I will probably just thread them in once and then remove them, re-oil, and re-install (hand tight)

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Mine were all roughly even when I installed them. All had about one or 2 threads left once I had torqued down the head to proper spec.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

They are all the same length but they won't all be the same height. The threads in the block are set at different heights. It will look funky before you put the head on, but once the head goes on it looks normal.

Underway

The front two will stand higher from the block without the head. The mounting surfaces in the head are just a bit higher/thicker at the front. (See Pics) I don't remember if there were two that were actually longer or if the block holes just weren't as deep.

When I did mine, I hand tightened them till they bottomed out then backed them off a quarter turn. Make sure you use the included torquing goop and also there is a tighter torque spec included with the studs.(80vs60lbs IIRC) Also that torque goop seemed really abrasive so I wiped the extra out of the cam valley when I was done, rather then letting the oil circulate it.

p51hellfire

iTrader: (28)

Thanks Everyone!!! all is well now!

BoostedTrixx

What was the tap size by chance, would like to do this myself.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

You mean ARP Assembly Lube? You're supposed to coat a LOT of stuff with it while assembling an engine. Everything that has a bearing surface, cam journals, main and rod bearings, tops and bottoms of the head stud washers, the head nuts themselves, the threads on the head studs, etc. It's not abrasive at all, it's the exact opposite of abrasive.

baron340

iTrader: (5)

I thought assembly lube was formulated a different way. It's thick and goopy, but it breaks down and washes out with an oil change. That moly assembly lube ARP provides doesn't break down like normal assembly lube in oil, I found little blobs of it in my first oil change. Or maybe that was just a freak occurance.. dunno.

Underway

Nope, this stuff came in a little single serving package, maybe double a ketchup packet, in the ARP box. It might have been part moly but it definitely had course grains in it. You coat the threads with it before you install them. Just didn't seem like something you'd want running around everything that has a bearing surface, cam journals, main and rod bearings, etc.

Underway

Here's a link to it. Definitely NOT something you want on bearing surfaces.

http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/arpultratorque.shtml

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Interesting. When I did mine a couple of years ago they didn't included that stuff, only the moly lube.

webby459

iTrader: (8)

Sorry to derail the thread, but is that aluminum paint, ie they call the color aluminum? I got paint from NAPA for my block that is called aluminum, yours looks good, but I'd prefer less metallic/shiny and more a glossy gray color instead.

Looks clean, though, kudos. Can't wait to start assembling my longblock.

Aricjm15

It is Titanium Silver Blue made by VHT.
http://www.brandsport.com/vhtp-sp403.html

twpipe

iTrader: (4)

ARP Head studs. I see both out there 218-5401 and more often 218-4701. What is the difference ?