Any plans to boost the K24? Although I have a feeling neither the 5 or 6 speed tranny will hold up with that amount of torque.

None

Do the math. Way easier/cheaper to boost a BP and you're still way over the torque capacity of the AZ-6. Sweet spot of a K swap is a junkyard K24, N/A on pump gas with a few bolt ons. Anything past that and it's akin to trying to build a 190whp N/A BP, rapidly diminishing returns.

I wouldn't say diminishing returns at all, if NA power is what your after. I looked at the swap as having the best platform to build on. A great chassis with a great motor, i didn't nickel and dime my swap and compare it to a boosted BP because i know that the purpose of the swap was to upgrade the ultimate potential of the car boosted or NA. After having the car running for over a year now I can say that i would go this route over a boosted BP any day.

Now i have a car that can be 300 whp NA and not over power the miata drivetrain. Or i can have a 500 whp boosted car and i would be in the same boat as the big turbo BP guys. But the cost of the swap sometimes needs to be a wash. We all spend money on these cars because we love these cars. There are much better options out the for HP per dollar.

If you can forget what you spent to get the motor into the car and look at the cost of a motor build vs motor build, the K wins every time. Its 10k for a supermiata whammy engine with all the bells and whistles for maybe 200whp, for that same amount 4piston racing can give you a 340whp K24. Bolt on a turbo kit to a BP for 5k and you get 250 whp Bolt on a turbo kit on a k24 for 5k and you get 450 whp.

Well sure, if you can just forget the $6-7k you have to spend to get to the baseline......

Ooooh I like this game, I'll just forget the 30k I spent swapping my engine I can get like 600whp for a few thousand with a supercharger. That's how things work right?

Anyone able to match 600whp for 5-6 grand?

I think you've got us there.

ANYWAY... A lot of it is preference. You can get 500 whp for $15k (conservatively, realistically more like $20k with a beefy drivetrain needed to hold it) and a turbo'd KSwap doing all the work yourself. Or, you can get a little less than that for about the same money with an LS swap. Different strokes.

I Should probably stop promoting the thread drift though. This is a beautiful build.

Forget about the $20k it takes to put an LSx into a Miata chassis and the $500-700 for the HPTuners license and dyno retune is the cheapest 400whp you'll ever buy :)

right, it's a wash. it's only money, you'll make more. Cars are no investment, you do it cause it makes you happy.

I can't see any of the pictures anymore and this thread needs an update anyways...

well, I've been driving the car basically every day since the last update here.

Once I get my other car and can have this laid up again, I might start planning a ground up engine build, get it prepped and ready to drop in, then spend a weekend doing the swap. I'd love to have another 40 or so WHP at least.

I always feel it's necessary to plug my own solution when I see this. (PS, ignore the flats on the road bike, my dad borrowed it)

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a6d03b7d8e.jpg

First KMiata with a bicycle attached to the back? I think so!

A superb creation and definitely the way to go.However us poor devils on this side of the pond have a steering column in the wrong position for the inlet..
Will have to look into clearances and freight cost for a full install kit.

Apologies for the mild thread-jack - what did you use for fuel safe heat shrink on your in-tank rewire? I tried some PTFE heat shrink I found on Amazon, but it's not sealing completely. Given the intended environment, it's not work taking any risks.

TIA

Fuel is not conductive. You just don't want bare metal touching. I used PTFE heatshrink with good results.

Well sheeeiiiiiit. Thanks for the confirmation Aidan, I'll put it back together with the PTFE. Hopefully this will be useful to someone else as well.

Definitely don't use unrated heat shrink. I used rubber fuel hose and slid it over the crimp. Then I used the coiled stuff that goes over the wires from the factory to keep the fuel hose in place. You can also stagger the crimps to ensure they won't touch. If there's no possible way for metal to metal contact to happen, you technically don't need heat shrink, as long as the crimp is good enough that you don't feel you need strain relief. Gasoline is an insulator, and there is no concern of current traveling through it.

K24 for a DD Miata?
 

I realize this thread is over 2 1/2 years old...
I'm just checking in to see how this K24 swap is working out for Kaustic as a DD.... I did send Kaustic a PM but have yet to hear back.

I have access to a very low mileage (32k) '08 TSX of known providence (my aunt's car was rear ended, thus totaled by her insurance co.).
Considering this swap for my 10AE with it's oem six speed and Torsen. Calif. CARB laws are a non issue, no worries there.
Now that David has worked out the a/c solution makes this swap feasible for me as I live in the hot toasty desert and a/c is a must have.
Andy Hollis recommended a manual rack as opposed a converted p/s rack. Andy thought the K swap was a great solution for a DD. When Andy speaks, God listens.
I have reviewed all the K24/Miata swaps I could find but I do have some questions.
This will be a 90% street 10% track driven DD. No autocross. Track is Chuckwalla in SoCal a relatively short track.
1) How are the K swap motor mounts for NVH on a DD? Comparable to the harder Mazda Speed competition mounts?
2) How are the under hood temps? I'll plan on a Swain coated (white lightening) street header, should I plan on hood vents?
3) I have a 32mm Koyo radiator with shroud and mishimoto fans, will that be enough?
4) ECU: Hondadata Kpro4 vs K24 reflashed....I'm leaning towards the reflashed ECU.
5) My existing 3.909 rear Torsen vs a 3.636?

Anything you K24 swap folks would do different for a street DD? I realize many K24 swaps are for dedicated track cars, but not in my case.

Thanks folks....

Pat Conlon, Palm Desert, CA.

Half street, half track K swap here.

1) I don't think it's bad but everyone has different limits for NVH. I had stock non-MS mounts before the swap.
2) Haven't had any issues with underhood temps. Currently using the race header with ceramic coating. I do have the closest harness to the exhaust wrapped though as well.
3) I have the Koyo Hyper V and stock fan and do fine. I'd get rid of the garbage Mishimoto fans.
4) I use Ktuner. Cheaper but uglier than Kpro. Would recommend against just a reflash. Too many variables.
5) Keep the 3.9. These motors rev a little more than the stock BP.