Zaphod

Hi at the VVT swap crew,

after finally getting my swap running (see vids below) - how is you solution for the too long throttle cable at you cars.
Please show me you solutions! (Custom brackets, or whatever else you did...)

Here is the promised vids:

First start attempt - no start because of a probable broken wire between the Crank sensor and the MS



Second start attempt - starts but runs very poorly - oh wait, the fuel gauge reads a tad low... :-))))



Third start attempt - now thats what I call a sound... (ignore the squeal of the power steering pump at startup, needs some more hydraulic fluid)

GraemeD

iTrader: (1)

Welded additional steel to the mounting area and drilled new holes.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

99 05 Mazda Miata Throttle Cable | eBay

what do I win?

TurboRoach

iTrader: (3)

This is what I went with too.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

OEM NB throttle cable here. No reason to waste time trying to fabricate a bracket.

Zaphod

Thanks, so I am going the OEM NB cable route.

Problem is - over here in Europe Mazda MX-5(Miata) spare parts are traded like gold nuggets. There are 2 on ebay-Germany atm for ~30€ (40$)...
Eventually a local pick and pull has one from the car I got some other parts for my VVT swap..

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I just dealt with the tiny amount of slack with the adjustment all the way out. Then I put the skunk 2 throttle body in and the slack went away.

Dunning Kruger Affect

Yeah, +1 on the NB cable.

Getting the NA cable out is a bit of a pain because of the way that it attaches to the firewall, but just hit it with a screwdriver + mallet, and it'll come right out.

krispe

Custom bracket made from a piece of stainless bit like the flyinmiata one... Flyin' Miata : Engine conversions : 1.8 conversion : Throttle cable adaptor

noname4me

I used the NB throttle cable bracket, NA cable, and NB throttle body. Had to enlarge the hole in the throttle body a bit for the end of the NA cable. I did have an issue with the cable coming out of the groove in the throttle body, but was easily solved with a small hose clamp.

NB cable makes more sense, but you can make the above combination work. Only down side is that the pedal/throttle is on the sensitive side.

Good luck.

curly

iTrader: (25)

My friend had a fairly innovative solution for his VICs head in his '96 car. Pulled the slack out at the throttle pedal, put a plastic spacer on it (looked to be about 1-2" long) and then a clamp at the back. I'll see if he'll send me a picture.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

Where's the problem in cutting the NA cable and one of these at the end instead?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Just one more thing to go wrong. The NB cable works, it's OEM, it fits perfectly, it's just as reliable as the original '94 cable.

Do it once, do it right

Dunning Kruger Affect

The cable is kind of pricey; however, designing a plate in CAD and running it on a CNC machine is definitely cheaper.

If you don't value your time and just happen to have a mill and CAD.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Dont you think thats kind of over kill for a simple bent and drilled sheet metal part?

Theres a bunch of solutions to this
1. Just use the NA cable, deal with the little bit of extra pedal slack
2. Use the NA cable with the skunk tb, less pedal slack than with the NB throttle body
3. Use the NB cable, works like OEM
4. Cut the NA cable and use a new cable narp
5. Bend up a new bracket and use the NA cable

The only one of those I wouldnt recommend is #4, because those damn cable narps always seem to slip out eventually, even if you green loctite them together. I guess the braze on type would be acceptable.

Dunning Kruger Affect

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