So is this normal seeing as they are solid lifters? I am using Mobil1 synthetic. Just swapped the motor into my 91. I haven't had the chance to hear another BP4W so I can't tell if this is a normal characteristic.

It isn't loud and maybe not even noticeable if I had the hood on (I haven't put the hood back on the car yet).

It isn't just one or two, which leads me to believe this might be normal.

 

My valvetrain made noises when the clearances were all over the place. After measuring and ordering the correct shims it's super quiet. If you have a set of feelers, go in there and have a look.

Someone might have an easier solution than me

 

On cold start they all tick pretty much. if they keep ticking after its been fully warmed up, then they're outa spec. You can either go in there and re-lash or just ignore it lol

 

Lifter tick after driving with a BP4W isn't really a thing. It either ticks all the time, or it doesn't.

Check your shims.

 

False.

 

Oh, you waiting for your solid lifters to pump up, bro?

I mean, i know there's thermal expansion and all that, but that number is soooooo small it shouldn't be causing a marked difference in noise before vs. after.


Source: On my third BP4W, and this is the third one that's dead quiet cold and hot. The injectors on all cars were/are louder than the valvetrain.

In fact, out of the 3 running and driving Miatas i've had... turns out they were all 4Ws. I know what BP lifter tick sounds like, i had a tired shitty BP in the Escort.

Either i'm doing something "wrong" that makes the motors dead quiet, or....? <3

 

You want me to make you a video cutie pie?
Noisy on a cold start. Completely quiet after about 10 seconds.
You're wrong, plain and simple. I woulnd't argue this if I didn't get to experience it firsthand.

 

I figured they were quiet upon startup because the oil being thicker. Just for future reference, is there anyone in specific I could send my head to have it rebuilt and shimmer without costing an arm and a leg?

 

Ok well here's the thing(s):

1) OP says it ticks after driving. As in... doesn't before, but drive it, it's hot now, now ticking.

2) I'm telling you point blank that none of the BP4W cars we've had had lifter tick at any temperature. Not open for debate, Pooky.

You can make a video, but i'm still going to recommend that OP check his shims, ESPECIALLY since it's ticking when hot. And your video isn't going to make my cars tick.

 

We have a dozen BP4W's at the shop, and I don't even want to count how many BP's I've gone through, the bottom line is some of them tick only when cold, and some tick always. The difference is probably "a little bit out" vs "a lot out" on the lash.

Go post in an AIDZ thread

Its not gonna be cheap. Its gonna be at least 250.
And that's weird that it doesn't tick when cold but does when hot. That defies everything I've ever seen before, and common sense/logic too lol

 

My car ticks for a few seconds when I start it, especially if it sat a few days. My D16 honda does the same. I always just assumed it was just waiting for oil to come up to the top of the motor. It's quiet after that though

 

The third option is "not out."



It just means his **** is out.

 

Lifter adjustment or reshimming is a normal maintenance procedure on solid lifter engines. You do not have to pull your head to have it rebuilt to accomplish this. Set of feeler gauges, a pad, a pencil, and (if you can't do math in your head) a calculator app. The shims (if you need them) are cheap.

Seriously, lots of how-tos out there.

 

In another thread someone posted that really helpful list of part numbers from Rosenthal Mazda too, and I think they're like $3 each.

 

(Existing shim thickness + existing clearance) - desired clearance = new shim thickness.

Do this for all of your shims, sharpie their measurements on them, see what you can re-use in other places, and buy the rest. I ended up needing to buy only 8 of 16 total shims needed to be in spec.

Hint, you need to check your lash before removing the shims and lay them out so you know which one came from which spot.

 

I know there are how-tos on this, but I'll have the motor apart to build the bottom end for boost, so why not new valve seals and a valve job and reshimming....

 

in that case, yes absolutely, do it.
have it milled flat too

 

You didn't tell us that.

Even after rebuild, you need to check them periodically.

Also, stop using that Mobil 1 water. You'll be a lot better off if you use oil.

 

Try Rotella T6 5w40, make those BP4W head happier but check clearance in first place as everyone told you...

 

Perhaps its not the shims?

OP: do you by chance have a real oil pressure gauge? I'd be curious to see what you pressures are dead cold and super hot.

Props for both of these guys. My BP sounds a lot better on the T6 than it does on M1.