Maf cleaned throttle body cleaned now surging idle
 

OK so in all of my searching on forums what I can find is either an issue with how I clean the throttlebody or a dead map sensor, when I cleaned the math center with Mac cleaner I did not touch any of the electrodes or electronics with the straw, and I let it dry. I clean the throttlebody stupidly with the mass airflow cleaner and reattached everything, now my engine starts up at 2500 to 3000 RPMs than idols down to 15 to 2000 RPMs and stays that way. OK so in all of my searching on farms what I can find is either an issue with how I clean the throttlebody or a dead map sensor, when I cleaned the math center with Mac cleaner I did not touch any of the electrodes or electronics with the straw, and I let it dry. Clean the throttlebody stupidly with mass airflow cleaner and reattached everything, now my engine starts up at 2500 to 3000 RPMs then idols down to 15 to 2000 RPMs and stays that way , When I disconnect the mass airflow sensor it idols consistently at 2000 RPM’s. My question is would I need a new mass airflow sensor or is there a way to fix this because originally before I cleaned it it was idling fine at 1000 RPMs, it has a begi s4 turbo kit and I cleaned it because I got CEL engine too rich. I currently took it back off and resprayed the shi* out of it and will let it dry overnight, I saw some dust on part of the connector. It idles around 6-8 grams/s when scanning. Any ideas or anyone who has been through this? Again MAF was fine before cleaning. When I disconnect MAF it idles high but stays constant so I don’t think it’s TB or tps

You need another TB. You ruined it with the throttle body cleaner. There is a coating on it and now you wiped it off and is not sealing.

Rest in peace teflon coating

if that’s true then why can it hold a consistent idle when I disconnect the maf?

I find it far more likely that OP failed to reassemble the intake and has a leak post MAF sensor.

Only question I have is whats a Math Sensor?

We have a winner
 

retuned the map and it idles fine but after buying new maf (faulty one) I put the old one in and it idles back to 900-1100k rpm. Saw the pipe going from intake to turbo housing was slanted up and it changed rpm as I pushed it down. Fairly confident this will fix it once I reseat that pipe. Throttle body is fine boys, although I did shear off the idle screw connecting to the throttle cable... ._. But I’ll just jb lock that into place since I’m never touching that again. Will update tom

also would like advice on maf and stft since I’m new. Are these okay? Or bad..
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dce76cee9.jpeg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...338a14d9ea.png
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...936c930239.png
orrow

That is not the idle screw you sheared off, but the butterfly adjustment screw.

Now good luck setting correct butterfly position with that screw broken.

That is one of the things you should never ever adjust.

The actual idle screw is indented on the side of the throttle body. Its a big Phillip's head

Which screw is this? The tiny one with a jam nut that's on the linkage? The nut fell off mid this weekend, and had backed out enough to hold idle at 5k..

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c4ebf16870.jpg

Yep, that's the one you never want to touch. There us a very specific adjustment position that needs to be done with a feeler gauge.

Idle adjustment screw is at 10 o'clock above it

Shiiiiit, do you know the proper way to adjust it? I drove it about a mile home with it removed, it kept vibrating out and holding open the throttle

Edit: we are talking about the one I circled right? That seems to be different from the one your describing thst needs a feeler gauge, the one I circled I'm still trying to find info on.