Miata LFX Swap (Singular Motorsports & Good-Win Racing)
#621
Man, that answer can vary a TON.
Not trying to do many of the extra things you see here, a simple street build would probably add up to ~$11-12k when it's all done, and I've got hours for essential items logged at about 150 man hours. Obviously, there's a million elective things that could change that. Few people do a full drivetrain swap and don't spring for some extras, or clean up and upgrade other things while they're in there.
Not trying to do many of the extra things you see here, a simple street build would probably add up to ~$11-12k when it's all done, and I've got hours for essential items logged at about 150 man hours. Obviously, there's a million elective things that could change that. Few people do a full drivetrain swap and don't spring for some extras, or clean up and upgrade other things while they're in there.
Last edited by LukeG; 08-04-2017 at 03:37 PM.
#622
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 3,303
Total Cats: 1,216
#623
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 3,303
Total Cats: 1,216
Interesting discovery while swapping parts over from the old motor to new...
2012 valve covers - plastic, 3.45 lbs each
2013+ valve covers - aluminum, 6.40 lbs each
So the newer engines have 6 more pounds up high. The plastic valve covers are now on the new engine.
2012 valve covers - plastic, 3.45 lbs each
2013+ valve covers - aluminum, 6.40 lbs each
So the newer engines have 6 more pounds up high. The plastic valve covers are now on the new engine.
#627
hummm we should bring our cars to Cota and do a little V8 vs V6 - V8raodsers comparison laps.
__________________
OG Racing
Your Source For Motorsports Safety Equipment
WWW.OGRACING.COM
800.934.9112
703.430.3303
info@ogracing.com
OG Racing
Your Source For Motorsports Safety Equipment
WWW.OGRACING.COM
800.934.9112
703.430.3303
info@ogracing.com
#629
I'm in Atlanta. Goodwin is in So-cal. i figure cota is in the middle.
__________________
OG Racing
Your Source For Motorsports Safety Equipment
WWW.OGRACING.COM
800.934.9112
703.430.3303
info@ogracing.com
OG Racing
Your Source For Motorsports Safety Equipment
WWW.OGRACING.COM
800.934.9112
703.430.3303
info@ogracing.com
#632
oh no... not calling out. Ryan and I get along professionally, both cars have the same tires, same brakes, side piped, are outfitted with all the singular, and V8roadster catalogs. It would be cool to see what the outcome is of the two paths. naturally, we would need a stig, because I'm a crap driver. Ryan is all Mr triathlon.... and I'm a Mr jelly donut.
__________________
OG Racing
Your Source For Motorsports Safety Equipment
WWW.OGRACING.COM
800.934.9112
703.430.3303
info@ogracing.com
OG Racing
Your Source For Motorsports Safety Equipment
WWW.OGRACING.COM
800.934.9112
703.430.3303
info@ogracing.com
#638
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 3,303
Total Cats: 1,216
Engine is in and fires up. Tying up loose ends right now.
Top of that list is some frustration with the Racepak stuff. Bottom line is it simply cannot read any PIDs from the 2012 ECU I have. Not with the OBDII adapter cable or with the CAN hi and low hardwired directly to the dash, despite the fact we can view live data streaming via that same diagnostic connector with either a scan tool or HP Tuners. Racepak themselves have no idea why it can't read this ECU, and I've verified this particular dash will pull PIDs via the adapter cable to diagnostic connector on other cars such as an ND that was here in the shop.
SO... I'm bypassing the 'read the ECU' plan. Wired in a temp sensor for coolant and adding the Racepak GPS module for speed. RPM is a bit of a puzzle because these ECUs have no tach signal output, but I have an MSD signal converter on the way that should take signal from the coil wire and output something the dash can understand.
Only thing I'm stuck on at this point is my oil pressure sensor... using a second factory GM OP sensor to feed signal to the Racepak. Problem is in configuring the dash to read it. Configured for a standard 0-150 psi sensor (0.5v=0psi, 4.5v=150psi) the scaling is funky. Sensor is outputting 0.43v with engine off (0-psi) which would be -2psi. I can't find any info for this sensor online or in the GM database to use for a custom calibration, so now I'm considering changing to a sensor for which the scaling is known..
Top of that list is some frustration with the Racepak stuff. Bottom line is it simply cannot read any PIDs from the 2012 ECU I have. Not with the OBDII adapter cable or with the CAN hi and low hardwired directly to the dash, despite the fact we can view live data streaming via that same diagnostic connector with either a scan tool or HP Tuners. Racepak themselves have no idea why it can't read this ECU, and I've verified this particular dash will pull PIDs via the adapter cable to diagnostic connector on other cars such as an ND that was here in the shop.
SO... I'm bypassing the 'read the ECU' plan. Wired in a temp sensor for coolant and adding the Racepak GPS module for speed. RPM is a bit of a puzzle because these ECUs have no tach signal output, but I have an MSD signal converter on the way that should take signal from the coil wire and output something the dash can understand.
Only thing I'm stuck on at this point is my oil pressure sensor... using a second factory GM OP sensor to feed signal to the Racepak. Problem is in configuring the dash to read it. Configured for a standard 0-150 psi sensor (0.5v=0psi, 4.5v=150psi) the scaling is funky. Sensor is outputting 0.43v with engine off (0-psi) which would be -2psi. I can't find any info for this sensor online or in the GM database to use for a custom calibration, so now I'm considering changing to a sensor for which the scaling is known..
#639
Engine is in and fires up. Tying up loose ends right now.
Top of that list is some frustration with the Racepak stuff. Bottom line is it simply cannot read any PIDs from the 2012 ECU I have. Not with the OBDII adapter cable or with the CAN hi and low hardwired directly to the dash, despite the fact we can view live data streaming via that same diagnostic connector with either a scan tool or HP Tuners. Racepak themselves have no idea why it can't read this ECU, and I've verified this particular dash will pull PIDs via the adapter cable to diagnostic connector on other cars such as an ND that was here in the shop.
Only thing I'm stuck on at this point is my oil pressure sensor... using a second factory GM OP sensor to feed signal to the Racepak. Problem is in configuring the dash to read it. Configured for a standard 0-150 psi sensor (0.5v=0psi, 4.5v=150psi) the scaling is funky. Sensor is outputting 0.43v with engine off (0-psi) which would be -2psi. I can't find any info for this sensor online or in the GM database to use for a custom calibration, so now I'm considering changing to a sensor for which the scaling is known..
Top of that list is some frustration with the Racepak stuff. Bottom line is it simply cannot read any PIDs from the 2012 ECU I have. Not with the OBDII adapter cable or with the CAN hi and low hardwired directly to the dash, despite the fact we can view live data streaming via that same diagnostic connector with either a scan tool or HP Tuners. Racepak themselves have no idea why it can't read this ECU, and I've verified this particular dash will pull PIDs via the adapter cable to diagnostic connector on other cars such as an ND that was here in the shop.
Only thing I'm stuck on at this point is my oil pressure sensor... using a second factory GM OP sensor to feed signal to the Racepak. Problem is in configuring the dash to read it. Configured for a standard 0-150 psi sensor (0.5v=0psi, 4.5v=150psi) the scaling is funky. Sensor is outputting 0.43v with engine off (0-psi) which would be -2psi. I can't find any info for this sensor online or in the GM database to use for a custom calibration, so now I'm considering changing to a sensor for which the scaling is known..
Regarding the pressure sensor, what is the PN and/or wht is the year, make, model, engine the sensor came from? It's possible you have a ground offset. Is the sensor 5v & ground coming directly from the Racepak? Pretty typical on the GM sensors is ratiometric 0-130psi.
0.5V = 0 psi
4.5V = 130 psi
As far as error goes and the level of effort you want to dump into this, 2psi is not a big error on the low end. I'd still validate the high end with ~100psi from a compressor. You can check it with a tire gauge, then just put a rubber tipped air blow to the sensor at that pressure and check it. Most shops have those tools.
We keep some pretty inexpensive pressure sensors in stock, SNSR-03098 is a good match:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/in.../cPath/129_143
#640
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 3,303
Total Cats: 1,216
Sometimes issues like this are as simple as a missing or extra termination resistor in the CAN lines. You should be able to pull CAN lines directly from the ECU as well instead of an OBDII adapter cable. Shield & twist the lines.
Regarding the pressure sensor, what is the PN and/or wht is the year, make, model, engine the sensor came from? It's possible you have a ground offset. Is the sensor 5v & ground coming directly from the Racepak? Pretty typical on the GM sensors is ratiometric 0-130psi.
0.5V = 0 psi
4.5V = 130 psi
As far as error goes and the level of effort you want to dump into this, 2psi is not a big error on the low end. I'd still validate the high end with ~100psi from a compressor. You can check it with a tire gauge, then just put a rubber tipped air blow to the sensor at that pressure and check it. Most shops have those tools.
We keep some pretty inexpensive pressure sensors in stock, SNSR-03098 is a good match:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/in.../cPath/129_143
Regarding the pressure sensor, what is the PN and/or wht is the year, make, model, engine the sensor came from? It's possible you have a ground offset. Is the sensor 5v & ground coming directly from the Racepak? Pretty typical on the GM sensors is ratiometric 0-130psi.
0.5V = 0 psi
4.5V = 130 psi
As far as error goes and the level of effort you want to dump into this, 2psi is not a big error on the low end. I'd still validate the high end with ~100psi from a compressor. You can check it with a tire gauge, then just put a rubber tipped air blow to the sensor at that pressure and check it. Most shops have those tools.
We keep some pretty inexpensive pressure sensors in stock, SNSR-03098 is a good match:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/in.../cPath/129_143
Re: CAN
I believe the issue is down to something on the Racepak's end. I've hardwired the CAN lines from the ECU directly to the CAN inputs on the display and it still can't recognize any PIDs. Again, both a scan tool and HP Tuner software on the laptop can pull a full array of PIDs so I know they are being transmitted correctly. That seems to rule out the ECU, wiring, and connectors. In speaking with the techs at RP they did admit that there are some ECUs it can't read and on ECUs it can read, there are still many PIDs that the Racepak can't see. I'm beginning to think this is just one specific ECU it just can't read at all...
Re: Pressure sensor
Ground and 5V are direct to/from the Racepak USM.
Sensor is ACDelco D1800C, it's the correct sensor for the 2012 Camaro V6. I chose this because this one sits right beside the oil pressure sensor that the ECU is wired to, so this way it wouldn't matter which one the ECU was connected to and which one the Racepak was connected to as they are the same sensors. Seems like a bit of a silly reason for choosing a sensor now looking back on it.
Good idea to just do a bench test on the sensor. I have an idea for a little handheld pressure testing unit that would be handy to have any time one wanted to validate a sensor or gauge, probably going to make that after hours tomorrow.
Last edited by ThePass; 08-14-2017 at 07:29 PM.