Windows95

Getting ready to install my DIYPNP and I'm curious what the preferred method is these days for modifying the stock intake to accommodate an IAT sensor. I came across this post and that seemed like a good way to handle it.

Does anyone make a straight pipe with an IAT bung to bypass the MAF and go to the stock airbox? Assuming that would work. Or is the cone style a better option?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

add a turbo.

Windows95

That's the long-term plan. I'm hoping to get some tuning experience on N/A first. Looking for a clean and simple solution in the meantime.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I'd want the AIT within the airflow, not just near it.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

silicone intakes?

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/holse...er/-p-500.html

though you'd need 3/8NPT for a GM IAT

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I'd want that same thing but as an aluminium pipe. Clamp the stock crossover to one side, and the cone filter to the other.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

are you talking long term or short term?

*edit: I type slow.

just put it into the airbox. Works fine short term

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

IAT Sensor Adapter Tube

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yeah that.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I literally stuck mine into the snorkel and let it sit on the filter, that's about as much "in the airflow" as you need

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I like this solution too. Dont use a cone filter and just tape/screw it--prefilter-- inside the airbox.

Windows95

This is probably the most elegant way to do it. Do you know offhand if the tube adapter would need to be 2.75" or 3.0"? If not, I can measure the stock tube where it meets the MAF next time I get a chance.

I really like this solution
I'm leaning toward this route. The only thing stopping me is being realistic about how long "short-term" will actually be.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

if nb then 2.75
don't remember na size

the other up-side to my solution is that the whole sensor is inside the airbox, and in the path of airflow, thus significantly helping reduce or prevent ait heat soak

cyotani

iTrader: (8)

If you know someone with a 3D printer I can send you this file. I have one with the proper IACV port location for the 1.6 and the 1.8

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

that's properly the worst possible spot for an AIT.

cyotani

iTrader: (8)

Due to radiator heat soak? I can move it to the outside top of the elbow. Or draw up an inline adapter to be 3D printed similar to the metal one so you can put it wherever your heart desires.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

It's rare that I agree with Scott, but this is, in fact, not an especially good spot despite the fact that both Bell and FM put theirs there.

Placing an IAT sensor directly behind the radiator exposes it to a hell of a lot of hot air, and even though the fancy GM-style "open element" IAT sensors aren't supposed to heat-soak externally, they always seem to. The result is artificially elevated IAT readings.

I had reasonably good success drilling and tapping the cold-side end tank of my intercooler, and placing the sensor there. It would obviously heak-soak just a tad after you parked the car hot, but once you re-started it and got moving, the sensor seemed to cool off and give believable readings while in off-boost cruise.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Changing topic slightly, I find this extremely interesting, and am curious as to both the material from which that part is made as well as its long-term durability.

cyotani

iTrader: (8)

I'll revist my IAT location and try to figure out a better solution.

Material is 3d printed ABS then acetone vapor bath which helps smooth the part, seal it, and bond the layers together better. I printed this at 0.12" wall. Replicating the 1.6L OEM tabs and rubber mounting style did not work well. The tabs were too thin. I switched it to the traditional hose bead and silicone coupler mounting style. I want to start experimenting with nylon which is less brittle than ABS and might be a better material choice for parts like this.

I design aftermarket intake for a living and we run 3D printed prototypes for 2-3 months on vehicle while the production tooling is being made. I have not seen any failure or degradation in the 3D printed ABS parts. We usually use 0.15" wall thickness. However, these are street vehicles that don't see the extreme abuse of track cars. I've run that intake at 1 track event so far without any issues. I'll be keeping a close eye on it and always take the spare stock tube with me.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

ShmoozerJoe has one of those things (one of those cobra looking intake tubes), and (correc me if I'm wrong, Joe) it's ABS plastic.
And his cracked last wednesday. Right down the middle