Reset ring gap before turbo?
#1
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Reset ring gap before turbo?
Over the next few months I'll be installing a BEGI S4 set up on my '99. As the kit is currently winging it's way toward me from California I'm in the planning stages for the build.
After reading here about setting ring gaps for turbo applications, one question comes up about installing a turbo an otherwise stock engine.
I'm going to be pulling the motor to install a stage 2 clutch set. While it's on the stand I'll be dropping on a rebuilt head and gasket (current #3 plug hole is stripped). Should I just go ahead drop the pan and re-bearing/re-ring the bottom end while I'm at it. This would give me a chance to check/set ring gaps to for a turbo application. Worth the extra time? The bottom end work isn't budgeted this time around as I need to send Reverent some build money for an MS. However, since I'm in there....
Thanks in advance for any words of advice.
After reading here about setting ring gaps for turbo applications, one question comes up about installing a turbo an otherwise stock engine.
I'm going to be pulling the motor to install a stage 2 clutch set. While it's on the stand I'll be dropping on a rebuilt head and gasket (current #3 plug hole is stripped). Should I just go ahead drop the pan and re-bearing/re-ring the bottom end while I'm at it. This would give me a chance to check/set ring gaps to for a turbo application. Worth the extra time? The bottom end work isn't budgeted this time around as I need to send Reverent some build money for an MS. However, since I'm in there....
Thanks in advance for any words of advice.
#11
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Kludge (n): a workaround, a quick-and-dirty solution, a clumsy, inelegant, difficult to extend, hard to maintain yet effective and quick solution to a problem.
"Kludgy" describes my wardrobe, not my wrenching.
Bearings, rings, seals, H. gasket, t.belt, h20 pump, oil pump, etc. will all be replaced with new. Head is rebuilt, match ported and mildly polished. etc. etc.
"Kludgy" describes my wardrobe, not my wrenching.
Bearings, rings, seals, H. gasket, t.belt, h20 pump, oil pump, etc. will all be replaced with new. Head is rebuilt, match ported and mildly polished. etc. etc.
#13
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Unfortunately, unless I can find a used 99-00 MS2 to run this system rather than ordering a new Reverent unit, a piston upgrade will have to wait until either OEM piston failure or the next rebuild.
Though I've heard I don't need BOTH kidneys...hmmm...
Though I've heard I don't need BOTH kidneys...hmmm...
#14
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Hmm, alright. Id go for a budget rebuild in that case, but I'm also crazy.
I'd do OEM bearings, egay rods, stock pistons with fresh rings, a hone and slap it together on a budget. If you are having any machine work done you may as well go for the pistons.
I'd do OEM bearings, egay rods, stock pistons with fresh rings, a hone and slap it together on a budget. If you are having any machine work done you may as well go for the pistons.
#20
i fell victim to their reasoning recently :-/.. except for the s366. gross.
it's no big deal it's only ~1000 for rods and pistons, 200 for arp bolts, 140 for bearings, 300 for oil pump, few more hundread for your gaskets, timing belt kit, etc... lol. enjoy the rabbit hole.
or just put it back in get a short block and have fun raggin on your motor.
it's no big deal it's only ~1000 for rods and pistons, 200 for arp bolts, 140 for bearings, 300 for oil pump, few more hundread for your gaskets, timing belt kit, etc... lol. enjoy the rabbit hole.
or just put it back in get a short block and have fun raggin on your motor.