Oil had 1700 miles or so on it, engine has about 2100 at that point. Here are the results. Blackstone didn't give me anything to be concerned about but maybe you guys can elaborate. Not sure where the metals would even come from and the low flashpoint is probably due to the oil having 1.5% fuel

 

He said the metals likely came from the major internal work "as new parts get acquainted with one another."

Is this the first oil change, break in oil, or have you done one change before this?

 

Had one change before this, I believe at around 300 miles. Came out good, little metal particles on the plug, less the second time around.

 

I can't quite put my finger on it, but the Blackstone reports are always written in a very particular, pleasing style. It makes me wonder how many different people write them.

 

You're looking good. Doing final break-in on the motor. Might want to do some fuel tuning and lean things out a bit.

Look at the levels of Magnesium, Phosphorus and Zinc!! Those are your oil additives. God, I love Rotella T-6.

 

Thanks for explaining that. I'm taking nutrition and was wondering why all these seemingly food related items are in my oil

Tune tweaks are in order for this Summer. Need to add a few other parts, fix some things, and then I can up the boost with CONFIDENCE.

 

I get the same impression. I've seen ones which have used humour to good effect, too. Blackstone is either training their people well, or hiring ones who like what they do. Either way, I'm glad to see it.

Edit to add: On this particular report, I like the method they use to apparently indicate that they're not concerned with the "Unit ID" field.

 

LOL I was wondering if someone would notice that. We nicknamed my car the Honey Badger because it just doesn't give a

 

My main concerns with this are the Lead and Copper. According to Blackstone, the Lead comes from engine bearings. I know the motor is still kind of new, but shouldn't any bearing break-in be done at this point? My lead content is about 6x higher than normal. I guess I can't make any assumptions until the next oil change, but I don't have any knocks or noises in the bottom end (just some from the valvetrain).

Any comments? Anyone else have Blackstone do analysis on a similar mileage engine? I called and they recommended doing an oil change around 1700-2000 miles. I guess as long as the content is decreasing it's good.

I have an oil cooler on the car as well. Should we drain that at each oil change?

 

The answer to this is relevant to my interests. Though I would think it drains into the pan?

 

It truly is an amazing oil for a motor that spends next to no time above 5k rpms.

 

The cooler is mounted to the steering rack and has a sandwich plate between the block and oil filter. I can't imagine how it would drain itself into the motor up a 2 foot AN hose.

 

Amazing street oil you say?

 

Based on . . . what?

Oil analyses done on track cars I know of using T-6 show excellent results. Hustler's, mine, Neal B's to name just a few. Came back better than Motul, quite a bit better in fact. And the price is definitely right.

Do you have contrary results?

 

I feel a pissing match coming on. Just looking for someone to give some insight on metal contents in a newer engine for THIS analysis, not what oil is better or worse.

Thank you

 

If I remember correctly, T6 has a super low film strength at higher temperatures that can easily be achieved on the track but not on the street. T6's film strength is around 60,000psi when at 230°F because it is by design a diesel oil which is not designed for high revs or track abuse. Most other racing oils are at or above 100,000psi at the same temperature. This could potentially cause problems with sustained use. I have no idea how this actually translate to real life. I, however, am planning to try out some Schaeffer 9000 series synthetic racing oil once I switch from break in oil on my engine because it is designed for the harsh conditions and has a great additives package.

 

Its not really the temperature, just the bearing loads skyrocketing at high rpms, its not like the film strength is miraculously better at 200°F. Remember T6 has gone through at least 1 confirmed and maybe a second reformulation since hustlers mega analcyst thread. I still run T6 in the wrx motor because its perfect for it, I shift like every shift at 3k rpms. I dont argue oil, way too much dumb and group think to overcome.

 

So I got a second blackstone done on the car, ~4,000 on the build. Looks like things are improving, but some metals are still present like Silver. Where is silver used in the engine? I thought it might be the ACL Race bearings wearing down, but after some googling, they don't appear to have Silver in them.

Big upside is everything at the bottom. After changing the catch-can to one that pulls the vapors back to combustion vs a ventilated one, fuel content went down, and the health of the oil went up even after a higher mileage interval. Flashpoint is up, just wondering about the metals. What do you guys think? Thanks as always!

 

Did you get any custom hardlines made or repairs? Maybe some silver solder on pipes involved, but thats a huge stretch.

 

I think your car is an alchemist and is converting iron into silver.

--Ian