I'm putting a MS3Pro PnP in my 05.
I'm staying N/A for the forseeable future.
The engine is fairly stock except for RB headers and Roadstersport 3 full exhaust. Mazdacomp motor mounts, and poly diff bushings.
Stage "0" is done. The car isn't about to fall apart.
Car otherwise will have an FM1 clutch, FF 380cc injectors and an NB1 intake manifold.

I used to have an NB1 with a SR20 T25, I tuned that myself (DIYPnP and then RusEFI) , but I really didn't pay much attention to what I was doing. Other than keeping AFRs in check.

The car dyno'd at 147 whp at ECS tuning down in CT with just bolt ons and no ECU. I'm not about to debate the dyno's accuracy, but if I go back to the same dyno I can use it for comparison.


Where should I pay the most attention when tuning? Rather, if I pay to have someone tune my car, should I emphasize that the engine will gain the most by tuning VVT?
I understand from hearsay that NBs run very rich at anything about 3/4k (unsure). So there should be gains from better fueling.
I'm just trying to get my money's worth when I take it to the tuner.

 

Are you doing the tuning or is someone else tuning it for you?

If you're paying someone to tune the car, let them tune it. If you believe you need to tell the tuner what to tune to make power, you've definitely selected the wrong tuner.

 

The plan is to get the car 70% there with fueling, idling and accessories. I'm not sure how much I trust myself to knock tune timing on the road.
I'll be clear and say that I'm not expecting 20,30 or even 10 horsepower from this tune.

I guess I felt like I was being thorough by thinking of things I could tell the tuner to help them along.

 

As above, the tuner will tune it for power anyway.

The only things they'll usually need to know are things like:

What fuel you'll most often use.
How safe you need the tune (ie: do you want every last hp, or do you want some headroom if **** goes bad)

That's about it really, the rest a decent tuner will do themself.
(still expect to have to make a few return visits for cold starts and other stuff)

 

Fueling doesn't matter N/A as long as you put good gas in it.
Just set it at 14.7 everywhere, and scaling to 13.5 at WOT.
Cruise at 15.5.

 

You like smoking valves and pistons? 13.5 is lean for WOT

I like 12.6-12.8

 

Good starting point for max power is 0.86 lambda in WOT, 1.05 lambda for maximum fuel economy in cruise, 0.78 lambda for maximum WOT cooling (aka turbo)...all on good quality gasoline

That around 12.6:1 AFR, 15.4:1 AFR, and 11.5:1 AFR respectively on a good quality gas. Sometimes you can make more non-FI power and/or get better WOT fuel economy by leaning out, which puts you between 0.86-0.90 lambda, which is 12.6-13.2 AFR. So 13.2 is typically around the *highest* you ever want to go in WOT. 13.5:1? That's like 0.92 lambda.

This completely ignores emissions, which is a big deal for OEMs on automobile engines. Piston airplane engines and DIY tuners don't worry about such things .

 

Oops, sorry, I replied to the wrong thread.
Don't mind me, nothing to see here...