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New Harmonic Balancer from SuperMiata

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Old 10-29-2012, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Race oil?
Zinc eats cats. Race engines like zinc. Race oil has zinc.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by emilio700
I don't think the damper will make that much of a difference that you can notice it from the driver's seat. I have driven BP's with the ATI damper and not noticed anything. The BP's I have driven that were fully balanced however, felt far smoother than any other BP. The best were like a long rod ratio Honda inline 4 in smoothness.

The two things we seen broken the most from mechanical over revs are bent valves and dead main bearings. Mostly the valves. In one instance, a cracked main cap. ST single springs shimmed for another 10# or so of seat pressure good to high 8's. Above 8700-8900, you need the dual valve springs. You pay a price in seat wear, cam wear and heat with the monster valve springs though.

For mains, just run lots oil pressure, race oil with lotsa zinc and King or ACL race bearings. We try to configure things to keep oil temps below 240 and ideally in the 220~230° range. That takes a 10-15 row Setrab and -10 lines. If the oil system is dialed it should still be close to 30psi idling hot and 70+ on top.
Stocker without a cooler will see 10-15psi at idle and barely 55psi on top when the oil is cooking at 280°. That kills mains.

I need to get off my butt and put together an oil cooler kit for the site.
I assume my engine was balanced, since it had 8lb taken off the crank.


Did you ever look at my baller oil cooler set-up? I never went above 230*f at 250whp in 105*f Texas heat, tucked behind a Panoz. I use a 13-row. No cat, no care.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
I assume my engine was balanced, since it had 8lb taken off the crank.


Did you ever look at my baller oil cooler set-up? I never went above 230*f at 250whp in 105*f Texas heat, tucked behind a Panoz. I use a 13-row. No cat, no care.
Don't assume that lighter is better balanced. A full counterweighted crank does a better job of offsetting what it's designed to offset. We hurt stuff with super light cranks more often than well balanced but near stock weight cranks.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by emilio700
Don't assume that lighter is better balanced. A full counterweighted crank does a better job of offsetting what it's designed to offset. We hurt stuff with super light cranks more often than well balanced but near stock weight cranks.
More reason to keep it under 7200.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
More reason to keep it under 7200.
Yeah but 8200 sounds so bitchin
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by emilio700
Yeah but 8200 sounds so bitchin
When the lights flash in Crusher, you're supposed to immediately shift, lol.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
When the lights flash in Crusher, you're supposed to immediately shift, lol.
I'm lazy and don't always reset the shift lights for every different engine. I also set them far apart for enduros. When we're in cruise mode, we shift at the first light which is like 1000rpm early. In sprint races of course, we blow way past that before even looking at the lights.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:42 PM
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Race oil

Joe Gibbs Driven - Synthetic Racing Oils

I like XP5

Joe Gibbs Driven - XP5
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:47 PM
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inb4RotellaT6
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:10 PM
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How bad would it be to remove/install the damper twice each year? Any potential issues with the press-fit loosening up?

I'd need to do this to return to stock for obd2/emissions testing.
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Race oil?
Walmart Racing Rotella T6. High zinc content.
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by czubaka
How bad would it be to remove/install the damper twice each year? Any potential issues with the press-fit loosening up?

I'd need to do this to return to stock for obd2/emissions testing.
Car will burn.

If a shop in Houston cars about your pulley, go somewhere else. You can run the stock crap off the Super-duper-Miater pullerz.
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:58 AM
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It has more to do with changing the crank trigger wheel. I'm considering the AEM EMS-4, but it seems to need the 12+1, but I'd need the 4 tooth wheel for the stock ecu.

Gaaaa! Stupid plug-in test!
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by czubaka
It has more to do with changing the crank trigger wheel. I'm considering the AEM EMS-4, but it seems to need the 12+1, but I'd need the 4 tooth wheel for the stock ecu.
One option would be to use one of the members of the Megasquirt family.

If your car is a 2000 or older, plug-and-play models of the MS2 are available in either turnkey (MSPnP2) or semi-finished (DIYPnP) form, and for later cars, the traditional MS3 will work with the addition of a wiring harness. Either way, they'll run off of all your stock sensors.

The Adaptronic E440 is also available in plug-n-play form from Boundary Engineering for all years including '01-'05.
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:38 PM
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2001. Yeah, probably MS3 is the best bet. I'm trying to minimize my workload when going for testing. I guess that means I can use the super damper with the 4-tooth option, and I won't have to change it back and forth.
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:58 PM
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I believe the AEM can use the stock 4 point trigger wheel. Savington went with a 12 point just for better resolution and it is the max that AEM will read.

AEM is PNP I believe for an 01, while an MS3X would need an adapter harness for it. Both will work for you and it just comes down to personal preference for which to use.
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by czubaka
2001. Yeah, probably MS3 is the best bet. I'm trying to minimize my workload when going for testing. I guess that means I can use the super damper with the 4-tooth option, and I won't have to change it back and forth.
I'm obviously biased, but one of the MS3 variants would be my first choice. It'll run off all the stock sensors, and the VVT system seems to be pretty well sorted on it from what I understand.

You'll have to supply your own wiring harness, as (to the best of my knowledge) nobody has PnP harnii available for the '01-'05 Miatas (they have a really odd ECU connector which differs greatly from the '90-'00 cars) however you can greatly simplify the task by starting with a Boomslang extension harness (the car side) and adapting it to the MS's connectors on the ECU side. For all I know, Boomslang might even be able to build you the whole harness- the list PnP harnesses for a number of other applications.
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:28 PM
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Joe Gibbs XP-1 Joe Gibbs XP-1
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Ski_Lover
It is prime eligable. Only an extra $8.99 and I can have Saturday delivery on them.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:53 PM
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Ugly snapshot from my phone. We start shipping today. yay

Attached Thumbnails New Harmonic Balancer from SuperMiata-178221_10151118654867749_1338306076_o.jpg  
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