Oil filter Cut away- Fram and Wix
04-16-2012, 10:43 PM
#102
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4. Most of us are good people with a significant level of technical skill and understanding.
List is quoted for truth.
And for what its worth Dave, arguing with Blaen99 is always pointless, lol.
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04-17-2012, 02:17 PM
#105
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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FRAM Lab Tour
They lab is located in Perrysburg Ohio, 60 miles south of Detroit. I would be more than happy to host a group there from this forum or any other anytime you have time to visit. Or, I will even pick you up at the airport and show you our enineering labs one on one as well. The doors are open and we invite you in.
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04-17-2012, 02:21 PM
#106
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Just find some curves. Nobody will keep up with you.
I dig the green Dart though. Have a '66 Sport Fury in the garage.
We crave real data here. Of course, that stuff tends to be proprietary, but I would love a repository of real test data.
The other thing I'd like to know . . . does anyone make their filters in the USA? It would be worth extra to me to buy those -- all else being equal.
I dig the green Dart though. Have a '66 Sport Fury in the garage.
We crave real data here. Of course, that stuff tends to be proprietary, but I would love a repository of real test data.
The other thing I'd like to know . . . does anyone make their filters in the USA? It would be worth extra to me to buy those -- all else being equal.
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04-17-2012, 03:33 PM
#109
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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The brembo brakes and magna ride shocks make the cts-v very different than the G8. That said, I love watching the Miata's smoke the much more expensive cars at the local track, they are awesome. They remind me of my race kart, speed on the str8's just doesnt matter if you can't carry that speed through the corners. Love seeing them get passes on the straightaways only to see the Miata's show them taillights on the corner exit.
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04-18-2012, 01:10 AM
#110
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The brembo brakes and magna ride shocks make the cts-v very different than the G8. That said, I love watching the Miata's smoke the much more expensive cars at the local track, they are awesome. They remind me of my race kart, speed on the str8's just doesnt matter if you can't carry that speed through the corners. Love seeing them get passes on the straightaways only to see the Miata's show them taillights on the corner exit.
All jokes aside a used 04-07 V is a pretty nice car.
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04-21-2012, 06:18 PM
#112
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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If you are running coil packs I'd suggest .028-.030, you may be able to get away with .032-.033 with COP coils as they should have a bit more saturation time depending on the circuit that's controlling them. I'm sure you know this but be careful when gapping to not put any pressure on the small diameter centerwire if you need to open the gap. Finewire plug designs weld the Iridium rivet to a nickel center conductor and side pressure can damage the rivet. So you want to gently pry the sidewire with the "gap opener" feature on your gapping tool vs. some guys who wedge something in between the center and side electrode. To tighten the gap you can rap the sidewire on a hard surface like a butcher block work bench. FWIW, I suggest using a roundwire gauge for accuracy if you have one.
If your setup is big boost, (>20psi), and you need a "racier plug" we have our wild AR3910X's we can send you to try but those are non suppressor and may give you some unwanted EMI.
Dave
Opening gap with cheapie tool. We suggest not using it for too much else as it can give inaccurate readings
Last edited by superdve; 04-21-2012 at 06:28 PM. Reason: Added gap opener picture
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04-23-2012, 06:35 PM
#116
Blaen,
If you are running coil packs I'd suggest .028-.030, you may be able to get away with .032-.033 with COP coils as they should have a bit more saturation time depending on the circuit that's controlling them. I'm sure you know this but be careful when gapping to not put any pressure on the small diameter centerwire if you need to open the gap. Finewire plug designs weld the Iridium rivet to a nickel center conductor and side pressure can damage the rivet. So you want to gently pry the sidewire with the "gap opener" feature on your gapping tool vs. some guys who wedge something in between the center and side electrode. To tighten the gap you can rap the sidewire on a hard surface like a butcher block work bench. FWIW, I suggest using a roundwire gauge for accuracy if you have one.
If your setup is big boost, (>20psi), and you need a "racier plug" we have our wild AR3910X's we can send you to try but those are non suppressor and may give you some unwanted EMI.
If you are running coil packs I'd suggest .028-.030, you may be able to get away with .032-.033 with COP coils as they should have a bit more saturation time depending on the circuit that's controlling them. I'm sure you know this but be careful when gapping to not put any pressure on the small diameter centerwire if you need to open the gap. Finewire plug designs weld the Iridium rivet to a nickel center conductor and side pressure can damage the rivet. So you want to gently pry the sidewire with the "gap opener" feature on your gapping tool vs. some guys who wedge something in between the center and side electrode. To tighten the gap you can rap the sidewire on a hard surface like a butcher block work bench. FWIW, I suggest using a roundwire gauge for accuracy if you have one.
If your setup is big boost, (>20psi), and you need a "racier plug" we have our wild AR3910X's we can send you to try but those are non suppressor and may give you some unwanted EMI.
My AFR's leaned out by close to 1 point with the change in back to back tests (BRK6E vs. your plug). Is this intended?
Color me impressed if so. Granted, this is just idle, but still. Color me impressed.
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04-23-2012, 07:48 PM
#117
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How to cut open an oil filter.
I bought a inexpensive oil filter cutter from Ebay ($38 Shipped)
It is a decent enough tool, simple solid design, with rollers.
Twisted 3 times and the filter can was cut.
It will leave a sharp edge on both the can and the filter mount.
I cut the oil filter that came on a 1.8L BP Mazda engine
Mighty M4612
It has a rubber anti drain back.
I lifted the filter cartridge from the mounting plate.
Nasty as all get out.
Looking around it, I noticed a large rip to the core, This allowed unfiltered oil through the engine.
Also looking into the folds I saw metal flake
Taking my pocketknife, I cut the filter media to remove the tin end caps.
Now the tear on both sides of the crimp.
It also has a tin perforated core.
Now, unrolling the filter media, and looking at the bottom of the pleats, I can see just how much metal flake there is.
At this point bearing damage would be a concern.
The whole engine should be pulled down and all oil galleys plugs and jets cleaned and inspected for metal debris in the oil galleys.
I bought a inexpensive oil filter cutter from Ebay ($38 Shipped)
It is a decent enough tool, simple solid design, with rollers.
Twisted 3 times and the filter can was cut.
It will leave a sharp edge on both the can and the filter mount.
I cut the oil filter that came on a 1.8L BP Mazda engine
Mighty M4612
It has a rubber anti drain back.
I lifted the filter cartridge from the mounting plate.
Nasty as all get out.
Looking around it, I noticed a large rip to the core, This allowed unfiltered oil through the engine.
Also looking into the folds I saw metal flake
Taking my pocketknife, I cut the filter media to remove the tin end caps.
Now the tear on both sides of the crimp.
It also has a tin perforated core.
Now, unrolling the filter media, and looking at the bottom of the pleats, I can see just how much metal flake there is.
At this point bearing damage would be a concern.
The whole engine should be pulled down and all oil galleys plugs and jets cleaned and inspected for metal debris in the oil galleys.
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04-24-2012, 09:26 AM
#118
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Bogus - I really do appreciate your photo-taking efforts but am compelled to offer some constructive criticism. 
Check the setting on your camera and make sure it's in the "auto" mode when the camera is more than 6" away from the subject and in "macro" mode when the camera is closer than 6" from the subject.
I think that will help with the out of focus pictures.
Check the setting on your camera and make sure it's in the "auto" mode when the camera is more than 6" away from the subject and in "macro" mode when the camera is closer than 6" from the subject. I think that will help with the out of focus pictures.
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