hmmm. if the oil drainback valve is pre filter then the drainback valve wouldn't do anything for it.
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Huh? What do you mean? I thought the drainback valve was inside the filter? The stock filter inlet line goes directly to the inlet of my filter. After the filter it goes on to the thermostat/cooler/engine.
Engine filter orifice]----->[oil filter]---->[thermostat]------->[oil cooler] Engine filter orifice]<---------------------[thermostat]<-------[oil cooler] |
From my experience with oil filters, not all have equally well functioning internal check valves. Might want to take a shot at a different brand oil filter. A lot easier to try before dropping the frame. I've never noticed with my Miata, but have with some other vehicles / motors I've owned in the past that were sensitive to the how well the check valve / anti drain back valve worked. Maybe the amount of extra path you've added to the circuit is just enough to be noticeable? Might want to remove the oil cooler while you're at changing the filter out and see how things change?
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I did it this weekend. Supported the engine/trans with a crane, dropped the subframe, dropped the oil pan, installed a pickup gasket and then put it all back together again with AWR motor mounts.
Lessons learned:
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PROTIP: the dipstick tube has a little tab on it with a threaded bit.... it has the strength of a cheap wire hanger and will bend if you look at it funny.
I just spend two fucking Also, I broke off the plastic tip of my dipstick again. Why the fuck isn't there an aftermarket metal version of the dipstick? |
Originally Posted by AlwaysBroken
(Post 1425164)
Also, I broke off the plastic tip of my dipstick again. Why the fuck isn't there an aftermarket metal version of the dipstick? |
Dipstick aside, any difference?
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Originally Posted by albumleaf
(Post 1425231)
Dipstick aside, any difference?
So far, the first time I started after doing the gasket, it took like 2 seconds to pressurize everything (my filter is downhill from the thermostat/filter). I shut down, waited and started again... 50 psi oil pressure within half a second. So in conclusion, that gasket is important, don't leave it out when you assemble your car. All glory and all cats to m2cupcar.
Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 1422197)
I have a very similar oiling setup (stock pump) and see full cold oil pressure (after sitting for a week) in about a second after the engine starts running (counting one one thousand two one thousand three one thousand). Did the builder install a gasket between the pickup flange and pump? I originally did not and had severely lagging oil pressure on cold start. Installed the gasket and it was fixed.
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Driven the car a few more times after letting it sit for over a day and on the initial startup, it still takes a couple of seconds to build full pressure (but it's like 1-2 seconds after sitting instead of 2-3 seconds every time). Subsequent startups under an hour apart seem to get instant pressure.
So I think the gasket is important but it looks like the extra post-filter volume of my oil cooler/thermo/lines is overwhelming the ability of the drainback valve in the filter over time. Or the oil pressure is escaping some other way. I'm going to continue switching filters at each oil change and see if I find one that gives the results I desire. |
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