oil pump and manifold studs on 1.6 2560 turbo kit
 

after over a year of researching, planning and buying stuff, i am a few things away from finishing putting my build together.

what the set up looks like: 1.6 snc, 2560 Kraken low mount, 3" exhaust, 2.5" intercooler piping, 960cc flowforce injectors, dw200 pump, r8 coils, 7psi spring, ebc, ms3pro, mostly track use and aiming for 250~whp/230~wtq.

would an upgraded oil pump be recommended? i know of the the bad stories with boundary, but they're the only ones i see offering an upgraded pump for snc 1.6s. i'm just not sure if i would need it or if it would be beneficial/add peace of mind for my car and what im doing with it. any input on this is appreciated

also, would reusing the manifold studs and nuts be a good idea? or should i replace studs, nuts, or both? i haven't seen much about this other than a few threads, but nothing that puts my mind at ease with one or the other.

any advice or input is appreciated

I have reused my exhaust manifold studs and nuts many times without issue. I have even reused my exhaust manifold gasket many times without leaks or issue FWIW.

At your desired power levels an oem oil pump is just fine especially on a 1.6. The main benefit of the boundary oil pumps are the gear set is physically stronger to handle sustained track time under higher load/torque.

my logic is if you are running a stock short block than the rods will be your limit long before anything else. If you're bothering to go forged rods then it may be worth exploring an upgraded oil pump.

gotcha. seems i'll just reuse my studs and nuts then - i have a spare set so if i run into any badly rusted or damaged ones, i'll just replace them with a spare. Have you used any type of threadlock or locking washers (my buddy uses nord-lock washers with his nuts) when reinstalling your studs and nuts?

so the upgraded billet gear set in those is mainly just for added thermal resistance? my car will see around four 30 minute sessions for each event, i figure maybe 1 event every 1 or 2 months.. not exactly racing conditions but pretty close to it. i'll probably send 5X racing an email and see what they think and post their response here

generally ill swap out any studs that are corroded wildly.

I don't think many have issues with manifold studs breaking/loosening but it is extremely common for the manifold to turbo bolts/studs to come loose. From what ive read many like the nordlock washers and many use resbond to hold the studs into the manifold as the studs themselves will rattle and spin out rather than the hardware/locknuts sometimes. Personally on my setup i use a few stage 8 locking washers where they fit on the EFR and it seems to work fine. I had significantly worse issues with them loosening on standard garret t25 style turbos.

I believe the boundary gearset is mostly intended to handle the increased torque from power adders. That being said If money is not an issue an upgraded oil pump is NEVER a bad thing for a sustained track use car. I run the Boundary VVT pump on my now bp4w setup and it make just over 60 on the stock dash gauge above 3500rpm w/ synthetic 20w-50 VR1.

I'm sure there are many others more qualified to speak for track specific issues and fixes. I had a stock block turbo 1.6 setup originally that made about 220hp/190wtq and was beat on mercilessly for years until i swapped it for a 1.8.

yeah ive heard about the turbo to manifold stud issues, which is why i have a stage 8 locking hardware set on the way from fab9. i'll probably still put a drop of blue loctite on both sides of all the manifold to head and turbo to manifold studs for added peace of mind.

i'm thinking i will probably skip the billet oil pump then and run my stock pump currently on the car, but i'll still post what 5x has to say when they respond. thanks for the input iroll

Blue loctite works to ~350*, your studs will be easily double that. Search “resbond”, that’s what you need. 907TS if I recall correctly.

good catch. i google'd resbond threadlocker following iroll's comment and found the 907TS you're referencing. i just saw that it was blue and assumed it comparable to blue loctite lol :facepalm: