Only looking for 5-7 PSI.
 

Hey there, I need a little help but not sure where I am heading. I plan on just running a 5-6 PSI turbocharger from the BEGi S-Turbo System. I don't plan on going over 180 horsepower. I will be getting a 1990 Miata NA soon.

Well here is the thing, not too sure what else to buy besides the kit itself. May look into an intercooler later on as well. Well first things, I plan on running on stock injectors, if anything, no bigger than 1.8l 265cc injectors. I heard Bipes ACU with the Walbro190lph fuel pump will get me up to 8 PSI, but I want to stay in the 5-7 range hopefully without knock. I don't plan on buying an ECU or EMS, if I need to, I will buy like an MSD box just to help with timing from knock if thats correct. And I think that's about it, I can go more into detail but don't want to make it too long.

You will want more, nobody stays at 5-6 psi. Save your money for a Mega squirt, 550's and an IC.
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I think the most I'll go is 8 PSI. Still any ideas? Will get intercooler though. Not ready for an MS.

It's true no one stays at 5 psi. I have the begi-s only been running 5-6psi non-intercooled timing set to6* BTDC with no knock. I just bought an intercooler and am looking to get a megasquirt.

NO ONE STAYS A 5 PSI!!!

Do it once and do it right. As for the car, I suggest you perform all maintenance on the car before boosting it.
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heh, ok, but what did you use with your setup? Did you use the BEGi FMU, and did you buy a fuel pump as well? As for the timing, what device did you use?

The basic begi kit with an fmu and bipes will be enough for you for 5psi. Hell even 8psi if you throw in 1.8 injectors. Trust these guys though man: don't take the bandaids route. With the money you will save by not getting an fmu+bipes+1.8 injectors+pump you can buy a MS+rx7 injectors and ALWAYS have headroom if you ever want to bigger.

I never understand people that don't want ems on cars like the older miatas where it is readily and not too expensively available to them. DIY ms is pretty damn cheap.

It will be hard for me though, I don't have my car yet. To be honest i'm only 17, almost 18 and I just started reading forums not too long ago. My mechanic aptitude aint quite up to par. And I still need to get a job as soon as my dad gets me my car. =)

ban?

When you get your car, go get yourself a Chilton manual. Perform all required maintenance, then save your money and do it right. You can get an MS built for around $400 if not less and Rx7 injectors for around $100.

Do it once, do it right.
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I did some maintenance before on my 1994 318is BMW, my dad let me change a lot of stuff when he wanted me to help him out. Plus I helped my friend install his turbo kit on his Ricer Honda Civic. Lol.

Nah, he has been courteous, has obvisously been doing some reading and wants to be conservative. Definitely one to keep around. He's obviously trying to spend his money wisely, but unfortunately running out of money with basic needs before getting to wants.

When I was his age, the big decision was whether to flip over the air cleaner lid or splurge $24 on the triangle-shaped foam air cleaner for the quadrajet.:loser: Both did the same thing-more noise, no more powah.:loser:

I can't even imagine how boring a miata is below 13psi. I've never run any less.... Anything less than 200whp is unacceptable.

+1
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I said the same exact thing, and now im sitting at 16 psi on a T25.

Ah, anyways, thanks for the replies.

Hey Sam, doesn't the SR20 T25 run out of steam at 14psi?

Some people have self control.

I found this on a Skyline GTR Canada website, some good information on the T25 Nissan used

GARRETT T25
They are from the small series of turbochargers specifically engineered for original-equipment small-capacity engines, have their roots in the ET Pulsar, and culminate in a 'twin' application on the 300ZX twin-turbo VG30DETT. In single form, they are not recommended for performance applications.

Car of Origin: Nissan S13 Silvia/180SX
Engine: CA18DET
Flange: Four-bolt; it fits most Nissan four-cylinder turbo engines
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 130kW
Max. Boost: 1.0bar (14.5psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.48 AR, compressor 0.49 AR
Comments: A small and reasonably ineffiecient turbocharger that should only really be used as a straight fit for an existing CA18DET engine to replace a failed unit. It's not recommended as a bolt-on for a normally aspirated engine of more than 1600cc.
Cost: Normally quite expensive, $450+ due to the replacement demand in the normal service industry for these turbocharger
Rating: One out of five.

Car of Origin: Nissan PS13 Silvia/180SX
Engine: SR20DET
Flange: Same as above
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 160kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.64 AR, compressor 0.60 AR
Comments: Improved flowing version of the CA18DET turbo makes it a great straight-fit bolt-on to the CA series, but becomes borderline on even a lightly modified SR20 engine. That the S14 series of cars moved to using a bigger T28-style unit is testimony to this.
Cost: Again, being a straight fit for all of the 2-litre turbo imports makes them an in-demand unit and pushes their cost through the roof. $550+ makes them expensive, but they are a great fit-up for a lightly tuned S13 CA18DET
Rating: Two out of five.


GARRETT T28
The next size up from the T25, the T28 series of turbochargers are more serious items. They are used in twin form on the Nissan Skyline GT-R and singularly on the Pulsar GTi-R, S14 and S15 series Silva/200SX. They make a decent upgrade for the S13 series of cars when more than 150kW are reliably expected to be produced.


Car of Origin: Nissan S14 200SX pre-1996
Engine: SR20DET
Flange: Four-bolt, same as the T25 series.
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 170kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.64 AR, compressor 0.60 AR
Comments: The ultimate OE bolt-up to the S13 series of cars, the best part is that it bolts straight on. A good little all-round mid-range turbocharger that has proven itself to be extremely reliable in service.
Cost: Expensive due to their fitment to an Australian-delivered car. Their price starts at $650 for a second-hand unit.
Rating: Three out of five

JDM Vehicles only, not relevean to the UK S14a
Car of Origin: Nissan S14 200SX post-1996, S15
Engine: SR20DET
Flange: Four-bolt, the same as the T25 series
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 170kW or slightly more
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.64 AR, compressor 0.60 AR
Comments: While the housing are the same as the earlier S14 turbocharger, the latter item has sophisticated Garrett ball-bearing internals, which guarantee a faster ramp-up to boost than the previous model. This is the pick of the T28 series.
Cost: They're hard to find second hand due to the relative scarcity of the S14 black rocker cover engines. Normally, you are best off to buy these new from a turbo supplier.
Rating: Four out of five

Car of Origin: Nissan Skyline R32, R33 GT-R
Engine: RB26DETT
Flange: Four-bolt, the same as the T25 series
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 150kW
Max. Boost: 1.3bar (18.8psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.48 AR, compressor 0.60 AR
Comments: They are really only good for use on stock GT-R engines due to their relatively small exhaust housing. For some reason, they seem to be able to handle more boost before turbine failure, but there are still plenty that have let go.
Cost: Anything with a GT-R part number is expensive!
Rating: Two out of five


GARRETT RB20/25 SERIES
Even though many tuners refer to the RB20 and VG30 (single) turbochargers as being a T3, this is not the case. Being a Nissan-branded item and having only Nissan identification markings on them (no AR markings etc.) can make identification difficult. All of the ball-bearing turbos have a telltale 'fatter' centre core section, as well as a bolt through the centre housing, which looks as though it has an effect on the thrust bearing pre-load. Overall, these turbos are very good performers.


Car of Origin: Nissan Skyline R31 GTS
Engine: RB20DET NICS (ribbed rocker cover)
Flange: Four bolt T3 style
Max. Power Rating: 140kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: AR not identified
Comments: A poor-performing turbocharger that was only used on a handful of engines by Nisan before being replaced with the newer technology ball-bearing units. Top-end power is far from good, and the actual response (boost-response time) is also quite poor. It's one to steer away from.
Cost: Dirt-cheap, as they are not in any demand. They have been seen to be as low as $100.
Rating: One out of five

Car of Origin: Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-t
Engine: RB20DET ECCS (silver rocker cover)
Flange: Four bolt T3 style
Max. Power Rating: 160kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: AR not identified
Comments: A big step in the right direction from both Nissan and Garrett. A truely nice turbocharger, complete with modern aerodynamics and ball bearing construction. It's a perfect choice to get the best from an internally stock, standard injector/management set-up. On a CA18 with a custom manifold, they are really good things.
Cost: Reasonable, with some examples floating around the importers for as little as $400. You have to be quick thoughm as they tend to sell fairly quickly.
Rating: Four out of five.

Car of Origin: Nissan Skyline R33 GT25-T
Engine: RB25DET
Flange: Four bolt T3 style
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 185kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: AR not identified
Comments: The big daddy of the range makes the RB25 turbocharger good for almost any mild six-cylinder application. Sparkling boost response in the low-rpm range and a reasonably hard-hitting top end make this the most common upgrade found on the RB20DET. It's highly recommended.
Cost: Being very difficult to get hold of makes them highly variable in price. Sometimes about $700, sometimes more.
Rating: Five out of five.

Car of Origin: Nissan Gloria, 300ZX
Engine: VG30DET
Flange: Four-bolt T3 style
Max. Power Rating: 190kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: AR not identified
Comments: Apparently, these are slightly larger in exhaust housing size than the RB25, but have a fractionally smaller and different trim compressor. Information on these is sketchy, but due to their almost unknown application they are easier to find than the RB25 roller. A good choice, particularly if you put the RB25 compressor and cover straight on. In excess of 200kW have been produced with this combination.
Cost: Fractionally cheaper than the RB25 turbo and not as hard to get. They have been advertised at $650.
Rating: Four out of five
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Like everyone else is saying, a megasquirt and injectors can be purchased for pretty close to the price of a FPR and a bipes/MSD box. Definitely go with the Megasquirt, take a little time to play with it and learn to tune while you're NA, then boost it.