Part numbers for a 475whp 2.0L stroker
 

I've figured out part numbers for the 2.0 motor that MikeF85 used to make 474whp.

Pistons:
JE Pistons
PN: 185918
http://www.jepistons.com/Products/185918.aspx
Intended for a Honda B20B4 with a B16A3 head.
Bore: 3.346" ~85mm
Stroke: 3.504
Rod Length: 5.394"
Comp Height: 1.181
Weight: 297
Inverted dome volume 11.9
Attachment 195223


Rods:
Manufactured by Pauter.
The rods don't have part numbers on them, but they do have a job number of 0702s. By using the specs listed for the piston, and the Pauter website, it would point us to HON-210-480-1370F found here.
Pin dia .827”
B E bore 1.890”
Length 5.394”
B E width .935”
Weight 560g

I've sent an email to them asking to confirm this detail. Do yall know if the listed rods will work? I'm not 100% sure on these.

The ones used here aren't cheap, but that doesn't mean there aren't other vendors making decent quality pistons and rods for this application IE: supertech, belfab.
Couple this with the correct offset crank grind and you have yourself a very potent 2 liter.

wow i hope this info is true, it maybe but the build price, does the crank need to be machine to accept different rod bearings? i would imagine they would be different...

You'd need an offset grind on the crank to achieve the extra stroke. Coolest part is that you can still use an OEM head gasket. I don't know the details on that, but a crank shop would. I know the piston is correct. I had to replace one in this motor. Still waiting on confirmation for the rods.

This is the first i've heard of grinding the stock crank to get two liters. Any technical information on that, such as... what would i tell a machine shop to get that? Any other information about it? Is it still as strong?

How does the stock 1.8L crank do with an offset grind of this size on it? Has anyone had issues with it?

Very interesting

I meant to check the specs on the rods when they had that motor apart so we could have this info public. Thanks for not being as lazy as I was. More than likely those will be some honda rods so you can get some cheaper Eagle rods instead of pauters.

Hopefully we can figure out exactly where to grind the offest of the crank to get it perfect. I don't know if it is all the way out or not. Let me know what you find.

I've looked into this awhile back and the biggest holdup is finding a good place to do the offset grind as not that many places are well versed at doing it with a miata crank. Sure, I found a few places willing to give it a go, but didn't really want to be a test dummy. At one of the better shops in CA that does race cranks, it was a 12-18 month wait. YMMV.

Hell, I'll try it all out. As long as I get some part numbers and exactly what the crank needs. My machine shop says they know where they can get it done by someone competant.

I think John Day built that motor.
http://www.daycustomengine.com/DCE/
Tell him Trey sent you. :)

If It was Automotive machine in Arlington, stay away. If it was Brian Stoid, run away (history of selling "built motors" with stock internals or milling the deck enough to hit the head.

Ric Stevens built it. If I ever take it apart again I'll definitely get more details on the crank.

I know that guy, cool dude with a good record of making huge power.

From Pauter:
I guess we won't know until I pull the motor apart again.

Ask him about the crank and rods if and when you see him again.

so is there a link or a contact to the guy building the stroker motor? maybe if we can find a shop thats compatint enough we can do a group buy and have a bunch of cranks done at once, if we had info i bet Travis may have some connections, doesnt anyone work from FM on here? they need to give up the ghost, no one can afford 4k for a stroker unless you got deep pockets then you might as well do a ls1 swap ect

They spent a fair amount of r&d to just give that up. Plus those stroker kits still sell pretty well from what I understand.

His R&D could really pay off if more people start buying them here. Contacting the person who has already done it for more sounds win win to me.

OK Compared the Honda rods you listed to the stock miata rods. Pretty interesting:

Honda
HON-210-480-1370F
Pin dia .827”
B E bore 1.890”
Length 5.394”
B E width .935”
Weight 560g

Mazda
MAZ-200-480-1328F
Pin dia .787”
B E bore 1.890””
Length 5.228”
B E width .860”

The crank bore is exactly the same on the mazda vs the honda rods. The length is just a hair longer on the honda units but maybe that is where they are getting the extra displacement from with a shorter piston but a longer rod.

The only problem I see is the width of the big end at .935 instead of .860, but the rods could just be machined slimmer right?

I do remeber that machine shop saying that the rod bearings he got for that engine were from a honda, so maybe there is space to have the whole rod big end in there.

Didn't Randy "dynra rockets" Stocker do just that--machine the width of the big end of a honda rod down to the mazda width?

I know little about rod bearings, but even if you had the rod machined down, would the mazda bearing work in it?

I am trying to source some stock b18a honda rods and some pistons on the cheap so i can test this all out. If it does work, then I will probably redo the motor I am building now to this setup.

A shorter piston and longer rod does not give you more displacement because it does not create more stroke, unless you mean when combined with a stroker crank.

That's what I was thinking and couldn't justify it in my mind how it would do that. I read the article above wrong and thought it was saying that it as possible with a shorter piston and long rod. Seems to me that you would have the same travel either way.

i have seen people do the short piston/long rod before to get more optimal rod:stroke ratio.... aka be happier revving higher.

but there wouild be no displacement from that.

Any updates to this info?

Bump

Update: This motor uses Scat rods.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G...0/DSC_0688.JPG

I measure 1.874" on the big end bore.

I was searching for rod bearings. The markings I see on the bearing are "TAE 0.25 RBH30 4B". Google led me to built Civic motors using Scat rods. I checked, and whaddyaknowit, the ARP rod bolts have Scat inscribed on them.

Bryce,
This is an amazing thread. Over 2100 people have viewed this. I'm sure there are many people who are willing to try this. Could you please do a recap on the parts to assemble this? It would be great to list this as a build sheet that we can print out and start our own builds. Thanks for your time and effort.

If there are part #s and the exact info on the crank I would have this in my car and tuned before the end of the year. Hoping to slap a vvt head on.. See some sweetness..

Sub'd for final parts list. Bryce: Thanks for keeping the thread updated!

Like rharris and brgracer said, it would be nice to find out who exactly has the experience to do the offset grinds. It's not like OEM cranks are hard to find, but I don't want to be a test mule either :(

Sounds like win & awesome

Hmm. OEM crank is like $150. I want to build another motor for when I sexplode this one up.

Question is though, are these pistons and rods 750hp pistons and rods?

in for part numbers......please :drool:

I'm going with Pauter rod's and JE piston at stock displacement for my '99 build up but have not yet decided on what cam's I will use.

Are you talking about 1.6,1.8 or 2.0 crank's? I have a friend with a shop and he does everything all the way down to making custom billet part's. He made his reputation back in the '70's building all sort's of racing engines, he is a engine master and walking encyclopedia of knowledge. Just wanted to put that out there.

1.8 cranks. Its getting harder to find people who have real experience with this. Back in the day, offset ground OEM crank was really the only option. Its only been relatively recently that the aftermarket has made things like quality offset cranks available to the enthusiast. Offsetting is getting to be one of those 'lost art' things, kinda like guys who know how to pour babbitt bearings for flathead Fords.

With the appropriate crank measurements I will have no problem finding someone to grind it.
Its not that difficult. Socal has many shops that can make it happen.
I have cranks and blocks ready for this.

i THOUGHt I mean I thought you sold your setup?

OK, so what do we know at this point?
Get B20B4 rod (from junk yard maybe)
Get B16A3 piston (from junk yard also) Compression may be important, but the point is to see if it is a short piston.
When you machine the big end of the rod to fit the Miata crank, which bearing would work best- Miata or Honda>(machined down also)
I would think installing this into one of the Miata cylinders would give you how much more the Honda set-up is sticking up in comparison to the stock Miata set-up. This distance, would be how much you would regrind the crank to achieve the correct height.
Then, couldn't you just order the forged rods and pistons at the compression ratio you want . I would run this idea buy the machine shop and see if we're on the right track.
I'm sure there's stuff I haven't thought of, but the point is to try to think of ways to solve the problem.
-Jeff

I didnt sell anything. The crazy ass set up is still for sale.
I have a block though regardless or turbo. i hope that Garrett picks me up for next season too.
So a turbo shouldnt be a problem for me.

Anyway, I am think I may just try and do this on my end. I will have the shop measure everything and have JE make custom psitons, get approptiate and /or custom rods and have the crank welded and reground for a stroker.

Shouldnt be too pricey.

You could just have the machine shop measure it and then order everything and it will be correct. Its simple math to figure this out. Call the piston company and figure out exactly what they can do. Find a rod that works with the amount of rod angle you shop is OK with and then just have the crank reground to fill the rest.

bamm. I kinda want to do this now..

If you are going to try this out, can I attend your party? I need parts for another motor.

You can yell at me for not looking at my spelling on that LOL.

You can attend anytime man. This is simple stuff for a machinist and crank tooler.

I figure I might as well make it happen...

I just need the piston and rod companies to jump on board for the support...