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is it just me or is the divider thing not supposed to be knife edged like that?
I thought I read somewhere that you want it to have a similar shape as an airplane wing, and not knife edged like /\ |
I don't think he's done just yet.
I'll wait right here for more pics to come by. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 963379)
is it just me or is the divider thing not supposed to be knife edged like that?
I thought I read somewhere that you want it to have a similar shape as an airplane wing, and not knife edged like /\ https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1356817217 Yes I read it too
Originally Posted by Miater
(Post 963380)
I don't think he's done just yet.
I'll wait right here for more pics to come by. What I find intresting, is no one has asked about the valve guides..... |
Originally Posted by BogusSVO
(Post 963439)
What I find intresting, is no one has asked about the valve guides.....
You have remove them for the port work and plan to put unmodified (old/new) guides back in there. The trade-off of poorer valve guidance is not worth it for the slightly increased flow. |
Originally Posted by NiklasFalk
(Post 963446)
It's "obvious" :)
You have remove them for the port work and plan to put unmodified (old/new) guides back in there. The trade-off of poorer valve guidance is not worth it for the slightly increased flow. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 963285)
If I can find a cheap head, I may give this a go myself. I have some junk valves to work on the chamber too.
Sorry for the threadjack but, Would something like this kit from Eastwood get it done for a DIYer? |
can you please flow a stock port on that head, i never got to do it on my head and would like to know gains over factory, i would also like to compare my flow number vs yours, nice write up and looks real nice. i know what you mean about flow bench bores and actuators. our superflow was set up for v8's i had to make a dohc actuator and a 85mm bore stand
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Originally Posted by NiklasFalk
(Post 963446)
It's "obvious" :)
You have remove them for the port work and plan to put unmodified (old/new) guides back in there. The trade-off of poorer valve guidance is not worth it for the slightly increased flow.
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 963522)
+1 That kills valve guides.
Originally Posted by doward
(Post 964188)
MT.net head porting for dummies?
Sorry for the threadjack but, Would something like this kit from Eastwood get it done for a DIYer?
Originally Posted by ctdrftna
(Post 964193)
can you please flow a stock port on that head, i never got to do it on my head and would like to know gains over factory, i would also like to compare my flow number vs yours, nice write up and looks real nice. i know what you mean about flow bench bores and actuators. our superflow was set up for v8's i had to make a dohc actuator and a 85mm bore stand
I have started to gather some of the parts for the stand. Superflow is just a bit expensive on the stands they sell. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 963522)
+1 That kills valve guides.
dont hate. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1357139997 |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 964366)
dont hate.
Miata heads always die from valve seat wear and the OEM springs allow float at modest RPM. Why speed that process up? It makes as much sense as razor thin zillion angle valve seats that flow like mad and are toast in 20 hours. I might cut away the valve guides for a Nationals grenade motor but not on an HPDE or DD build. |
My head still has depressions where it ate a screw in the squish area on #4.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 964392)
My head still has depressions where it ate a screw in the squish area on #4.
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exactly!
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Braineack... The port work looks good, and the guides touched at the end will have little effect on anything.
Emilio... I will agree, cutting the guides down is not the best thing to do on most heads.It does kill the support of the valve stem and wear will occure faster. Most all the time I have seen excessive seat wear on a sinter metal or powder metal seat insert is from a valve job that did not control seat run out, and the valve had to pound the run out from the seat. |
Quick question: removing/reinstalling the valve guides - is it just a matter of pressing or pushing or hammering them in/out? Or do you have to do something fancy like freeze/heat up the area like I've seen on some youtube videos of fancy shmancy engines?
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18psi.. it really comes down to the head.
But thos is the most common method. https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...er-head-64857/ Some times a guide will not just press out, then heat is used. If heat does not work, then the guide will be "shelled out" That is a PITA, the guide is reamed paper thin, then chipped out. |
got it. thanks sir
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Cleaning the combustion chambers.
8 Attachment(s)
BP combustion chamber porting.
The stock chamber. Blue lay out dye has been applied. A used HG is the template. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359164840 The main reason to do this is to remove the factory casting imperfections, along with removing potential hot spots. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359164840 Bevel the sharp edges. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359164840 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359164840 Now the head is ready to be cleaned, and have the guides installed, and the valve job done. |
HOLT SHIT! That looks nice!
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Is there a better than stock option for valve guides?
It seems head porting on BP motors doesn't make much more power. Is it worth the effort to take the guides out, port it, new (better?) guides, and reassemble. Plus the head rebuild while you're there. How much is 12% more flow help in a turbo car? Not doubting it wouldn't, but how much. |
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