A probable solution to Begi's racer reroute warmup times?
1 Attachment(s)
So my friend got around to implement the tap so he can control the warmup times. Cool on the track is not optimal for everyday drive.
fully open (reroute way) the warmup time to 190f is 13:30 minutes. Not so good. Tested my car (still with basic route) - 10:30 to 190f. A little play with the reroute's tap, around 80-85% closed, and my friend got his times pretty much identical to my warmup times. My question is, is it safe for the engine the way the tap is half-closed? I mean, is it hurting in any way that the circulation is partially blocked? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1379611842 |
1 Attachment(s)
I think a better solution would be to use a real coolant reroute.
Also, https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1379615516 |
just move the adapter from the upper to lower hose.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1055297)
just move the adapter from the upper to lower hose.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1055297)
just move the adapter from the upper to lower hose.
Not sure if trolling or if I just cant brain today. |
Boogie, thanks, but as I said, I tuned the tap so the water flow through it to the upper hose is just enough that warmup and daily driving temps are stock-like.
Braineack, But then I'm back to stock-like configuration. The reroute works in the track with the tap fully open. With the tap half-closed, the temperatures are stable just like a stock car. |
The point is, a "real" reroute would actually help with keeping the back cylinders cool.
I bet that racer reroute thing has a negligible effect. I see no reason why it should even flow. Its going from hot to hot, with the restriction of the heater core in between. |
Setup the heater return like factory, into the water pump or into the lower rad hose.
Use an oil t-stat on the heater *outlet* to block flow when hot; this will stop the heater bypassing the radiator when the coolant is hot. At the same time, if you turn on the heater to help cool the engine, it will open and coolant will through the heater. |
If my temps at the track dropped from 225f to below 212f it must have did something.
Can anyone say if the restriction of the flow by the tap can cause damage, even so the temps are just as they need to be? |
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
(Post 1055301)
Wouldnt that be the same thing as having it hooked to the mixing manifold, like from the factory?
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1055297)
just move the adapter from the upper to lower hose.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1055326)
+1
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1055297)
just move the adapter from the upper to lower hose.
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 1055333)
Which then makes it no different than stock.
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So what's the point in plumbing it into the rad hose instead of stock, at the waterpump inlet?
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 1055358)
So what's the point in plumbing it into the rad hose instead of stock, at the waterpump inlet?
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OK I'm glad this is clear.
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They did it because they wanted to remove the pipe under the manifold and the mixing manifold to better fit their turbo parts. Going back to the upper was a compromise, not a benefit.
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lol FIX your car back to stock, then if you want to actually IMPROVE go ahead and do the reroute a proper way
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Okay, sorry for the late reply to this, but I'm having the same issue with the Begi reroute kit that came with my S2 turbo kit about four years ago.
So, the fix is to remove the big T from the upper radiator hose and route the hose going around the motor into that T to the lower radiator hose? Not a lot of room around the turbo to put that hose. Guess I would need to extend the hose going around the motor to the lower hose? Sorry if Im being clear as mud, but I need to do this tomorrow. My car almost never gets up to operating temp right now. |
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