Currently having cooling problems on my 99 b/c the fan relay is toast. I'm getting the car ready to do some track duty, daily driving, and quite a bit of drift. First thing before I get to driftin and putting all the turbo stuff I have on is to keep this thing cool. Coming from a Nissan I always bought the cheapest most effective parts i.e. Ebay intercooler, mishimoto radiator. I see these are options for the Miata and I'm leaning towards getting a CXracing, maybe even there one with dual fans and shroud.

What I really want to do is run a dual pass and was wondering if anyone had run one on a miata before? I know some cars have trouble running these b/c apparently it can build more pressure than a stock or aftermarket and explode your heater core.

I was looking at getting a C&R or Griffin Nascar style as close to fitting as possible and then get out the cut off wheel and welder to get it in there snug.

Opinions, Comments, Any users?

Car that will be pulling the duty. I have lots of parts for it including a built bottom end, turbo set-up(need tuning), spare just about everything from an 03

 

So what wheels does it actually have? I see three different sets there.

Sounds like a good build. There are a bunch of guys running the CXRacing I think, though I don't have an answer regarding the dual pass.

 

I'm currently running the banana spokes. I traded the 002 for them and have the stock rims sitting on a shelf. It was like a little progression timeline since I've had the car.

 

Drifting is gay.
Your hood is gay.
You're gay.

 

You could go with the best:

PWR Racing Radiator for the 90 - 97 Mazda Miata




There are others (cheaper) that may do the same job...but this is the ONE thing I didn't cheap out on. This Miata has always had overheating problems...until I put one of these on there and NEVER looked back.

I did everything else budget, but didn't want to **** around with the radiator.














Mishimoto is just as good and half the price...but I bought this **** before I joined here, and could have used the savings for SS brake lines and some bad *** pads.

 

Hey what can I say Florida fails. The most fun I have is sliding, not a crazy amount of tracks to road race on.
I stripped the paint of the hood for weight savings.

I think I'll call the guys at Flyin Miata or something and see what they know.

 

Polish that hood up to a mirror shine. That would be wicked awesome... until you were driving into a sunset.

 

For the driftings, just get a big cheap AL radiator, stick on an oilcooler, and a set of shrouded pusher/puller fans.

 

Yup, this **** is the bomb:
Mazda Miata Performance Aluminum Radiator 1990-1997, by Mishimoto

 

Just got off the phone with FM and they are currently working on a set to run dual-pass radiators. Sound like I just need to keep the pressure in the cooling system around 20 psi. So assuming I don't have someone buy my car this week, I'm using a buddies shop this weekend to weld in a full roll cage and will probably buy a Nascar style raditor on ebay this week. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

The best radiator in the world won't be very effective when there's no airflow, because the car is sideways.

 

Weren't all of the people who track their car saying its hard to beat OEM? Especially since I've read so many people having issues with aftermarket springing leaks.

 

Buy the 22" Ford version of this rad and fab your own cradle for it. That will put the inles and outlet on the driver's side. Double pass, cross flow, twin core radiator for $212 - if you overheat with this you have other problems.

 

senor cup car speaks the truth. If I didn't get a deal on my radiator, I'd have a radiator from a sprint car and a torch.

 

Which is why I think it is import to have a large dual pass radiator even if I have to notch the frame rails. I plan to run good ducting for grip but would like the extra capacity for drift. Plus its baller to have a 3-4" radiator.

 

That 22" rad also creates a gap for access to mouth - for say IC pipes, oil cooler or air intake. Though the biggest return for effort/$ I got was putting a hole in the hood. Work wonders at speed and rest (for a boosted car).

 

The guy who I bought the car from, his s14.

 

fixed.

 

Hustler your friends with Mike Peters aren't you?

 

Another strong vote for KISS: no EBC, no MBC, just a wastegate can that is up to it's job. I run a BEGI 12-17psi piece (probably from APT too) that results in near constant 1 bar boost.

I am going to source it postIC/preTB too.

EDIT: You may see full boost 100-200rpm later, but it comes in a lot smoother and that is something my drive line will like, as do I on the track coming out of a tight corner.