Re-Torque Head after rebuild?
93 1.6 Forged internals with ARP head studs
Quick question. Once I have built the engine and its up and running will the head need to be re-torqued at any time? Cheers Barry |
The instructions say to do it, but I don't know anyone who has ever bothered to. :giggle:
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Did you use stock head bolts or ARP head studs?
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Originally Posted by BogusSVO
(Post 865637)
Did you use stock head bolts or ARP head studs?
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Well what I do with ARP head studs, is 3 step torque to spec, then loosen about 1/2 turn, then 3 step to spec, loosen, then a last 3 step to spec..
This way any movement of the block/styd/nut is made before fluids are added. It pulls the stud thread into the block thread, and "mates" the nut with the stud. |
Originally Posted by BogusSVO
(Post 865649)
Well what I do with ARP head studs, is 3 step torque to spec, then loosen about 1/2 turn, then 3 step to spec, loosen, then a last 3 step to spec..
This way any movement of the block/styd/nut is made before fluids are added. It pulls the stud thread into the block thread, and "mates" the nut with the stud. Barry |
Any and all head gaskets.
But if the engine has been run and has fluids (oil/water) DO NOT use this method Getting any fluid between a gasket and deck surface is not good. |
Cheers, the engine is not built yet, the head is ready and I should get the block back from the engine builder this week.
I take it when using this method there will be no requirement to re-torque the head once the engine (forged internals) has been run in? many thanks for your advice.... Barry |
No, Thats what I do when I build an engine and send it out the door.
Have not had one come back for a blown HG. |
Thanks Dale, I will use that method. Keep doing the 'How to's', they are are great source of information!!
Cheers.......:cool: Barry |
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