I think you guys are missing teh jokes

i try to strike a balance between lazy and environmental. that balance falls roughly at "recycle used filters".

As Joe said, it really is not a bad price. I would probably prefer one with a replaceable filter cartridge. That said, having witnessed what happens to the stock oil filter at very high pressures, I'm strongly considering a racing-type filter. With enough pressure, the think outer shell of stock-type filters balloon, and the base plate deforms to the point of going from concave to convex.

Deformed filter on the left, unused filter on the right.

http://www.miata.tv/post/oilpump/filter_compare1.jpg

http://www.miata.tv/post/oilpump/filter_compare2.jpg

http://www.miata.tv/post/oilpump/filter_compare3.jpg

exactly how much oil pressure are you running???? O.O

My guess is north of 250psi. My gauge and data system peg at 120psi.

This was with a stuck oil pressure relief valve on a brand new oil pump.

well if you would oil your pressure relief valve.....


im going to guess that the oil escaping from between the filter and the oil cooler acted as it's own pressure relief once that happened?

Fitment is the same for Honda B-series and Miata B6/BP. The filter I use on my Miata is a Mobil1 M1-104, which is the specified fitment for Civics, Integras, etc. Same basic internals (drainback, bypass, etc) with a slightly larger canister and element than the stock Miata filter.

Well, my lathe doesn't tell me spindle speed, but basically just really slow. One of my cutoff tools is extremely narrow (maybe 1/16") and IIRC that's the one I used.

I don't recall exactly how the toolpost was set up. I just loaded the tool at whatever position was already dialed up. 'Twas probably just below center, with the tool in the usual spot (pointing away from the operator) and the filter rotating CCW as viewed from the right side (top of filter moving towards the operator).

^^^This????

So...M04S75F1.0;

Gotcha.

I would have opened, checked, and greased a stock oil pump, but this was a blueprinted race pump with billet gears and pre-packed with grease.

Believe it or not, there wasn't much of an oil leak at all. The first time the car truly ran was on a dyno. At that point, someone noticed a few drops of oil on the subframe. I reached down, noticed the oil filter was loose, tightened it, and thought I was an idiot for leaving it loose to begin with.

Two days later, the car was on the track. After the first run session, I noticed that the filter was loose again. At that point, I realized it was loosening on its own, but I didn't notice that it was deforming. Checked it for the rest of the day, and it was OK.

Next morning at the track, temps were cold. Checked the filter. Started the car and just ever-so-slightly blipped the throttle, and all hell broke loose. Oil freaken' everywhere. Looked down and saw that the o-ring had blown out.

I had been lucky at the dyno and track. The car was only revved a time or two before oil temperature and pressure stabilized. I was being super cautious with the new engine, and usually let the car idle up to temp.

Thanks Joe. I haven't tried cut-off or parting operations yet so this will be a new experience. If nothing else, it'll be good for some amusing pictures of me and wall behind the lathe splattered with oil.

I thought that this was miataTURBO.net not miataCHEAPASS.net

WhyTF are you all considering this for the $ savings? I thought that we were here to talk about performance?

I think I'll put that $70 towards a filter cutter before the reusable filter.

How's this list of reasons M-tuned would give for buying that $80 filter then?

Potential savings over the life of the filter? Check.

Performance upgrade as the filter flows better? Check.

Safety and reliability by making it easy to watch for shavings and debris? Check.

Improved engine health due to finer particles being filtered out of the oil? Check.



At what point has this forum NOT been filled with cheap asses!?!