Removing crank bolt with Fluidamper installed
 

Gents,

When I installed the Fluidamper on my '99 track car a few years ago, I used my FM tool and ONE bolt into the damper (plus geometry) to get the crank bolt tightened. There was no way to use two bolts into the damper with the FM tool. I bent the bolt and there was a serious gnashing of teeth and general unhappiness.

Does anyone have any words of wit to share specifically about getting the crank bolt off with the Fluidamper 521001 installed? Anything at all would be appreciated.

Thanks,

I have a Super Damper and not a Fluidamper so I may be of limited use, but as far as I am understanding your question you just cant get the main crank bolt out? I looked up your fluidamper but I dont see any reason the damper itself should make getting the main crank bolt out any different than a stock damper, but maybe I am just misunderstanding. To get the crank bolt out I either use an impact if the engine is out of the car or I have the rad removed, or I put the car in gear and have someone (or an appropriate length rod) hold the brake pedal and use a breaker bar.

Long breaker bar set on the frame rail and tap the starter, works like magic when you cant fit an impact or 1st/R with the handbrake doesnt hold enough.

Big brain move. I have never thought of that.

Just don't try to hold it doing the starter method. If the bolt doesn't break free, it will slam your hand into whatever is in the way.

I used the starter method to remove a stuck crank bolt on my 323gtx b6t motor. Was scary tbh, but worked great with the smallest bump on the starter.

Thanks much for all the replies.

The reason I asked is the car is still up on jackstands after replacing the transmission. It was obvious she needed a cam cover gasket, and I needed to reseal the dumbass plug thingy at the back of the exhaust cam. I pulled the cam cover and found this...

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...beabb4bdbf.jpg

I was trying to avoid getting her off the jackstands to put weight-on-wheels so I could remove the crank bolt. That FM tool works like a champ on the OEM damper, and I am not opposed to buying another tool if someone had a recommendation. Bumping the starter seems like the only answer, but I have to admit I haven't done it before, and it scares me.

It should, it's a good way to damage something, but it works great. Have someone stomp on the brakes while it's in top gear. You usually have to start with a short ratchet to take up all the slop in the drivetrain, then eventually put a breaker bar on the end to break it loose.

its only what, 125 ft. lbs.???

Put it in gear, have somebody hold the brakes(as Curly says) or if your parking brake is adjusted properly it might hold, and put a breaker bar on it... not that hard...

Obviously the first thing to try...

You mention only being able to get one bolt through the FM tool, if you loosen another bolt, or replace another one using a longer one, you can orient the tool above/below the protruding bolt, and it will still provide the holding power it needs for you to break the crank bolt loose with a breaker bar. Its effectively the same as having multiple bolts in the tool.

The problem with the FM tool and the fluidamper is the fluidamper has zero bolts to hook the tool to.

I borrowed my buddies when I built my engine and I couldnt figure out a way that it would do anything when using the fluidamper. Its designed to use the stock 4 bolt crank pulley. I could also see it working with the ATI, but the fluidamper...no.

Totally my bad, my dyslexia saw fluidamper and thought superdamper (ATI). Carry on....

I was overthinking things again... I put it in Sixth, put the e-brake on, and broke it free with my huge breaker bar. I didn't even have anyone holding down the brake pedal.

Thanks for the inputs.