RB header hitting subframe
04-08-2014, 04:20 PM
#1
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RB header hitting subframe
I need some ideas on what I can do to get the downpipe of my racing beat header from rattling against the subframe. I recently had the welds at the flange rewelded and I suppose since he didn't have a jig it pushed the end outwards away from the engine and into the subframe. Obviously having it rewelded again is an option but I want to see what else I could do before it comes to that.
So this is how close it currently sits.
I've thought of loosening the bolts and pushing it back, assuming the holes are bigger than the studs. I've also wondering how malleable the metal is and if I could take a pry bar to it without damaging it too bad.
Anyone else have any suggestions?
So this is how close it currently sits.
I've thought of loosening the bolts and pushing it back, assuming the holes are bigger than the studs. I've also wondering how malleable the metal is and if I could take a pry bar to it without damaging it too bad.
Anyone else have any suggestions?
Last edited by flier129; 04-08-2014 at 05:01 PM.
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04-08-2014, 04:58 PM
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Yeah, that's close.
My RB has no flex to it at all, its a pretty stout collection of tubes. Not sure how you would manage to bend it and maintain any sense of alignment while not collapsing the tube.
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04-08-2014, 05:49 PM
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How are your motor mounts? If they are FUBARed, they will place the motor in a different position that may cause the header to hit the subframe. Another option would be to shim the mount at the cross-member to raise the engine for clearance.
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04-08-2014, 06:07 PM
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The more I think about it, the more it makes sense to just have it welded into the correct position
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04-09-2014, 05:21 PM
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Have you recently loosened and tightened the 3 bolts connecting the transmission tail housing to the power frame for any reason? (like a recent clutch or transmission change?)
If your RB header hits the frame or floor you might loosen the 3 power frame to transmission bolts (2 long and 1 short) 1 or 2 turns. Then have someone push the transmission tail housing toward the passengers side while you tighten the 3 transmission - power frame bolts.
The bolt holes in the power frame are a little large allowing some movement in assembly.
It may save you having to cut and reweld your header.
Following the above if the motor mounts (the rubber part) seem a little twisted... you could support the engine (with a floor jack under the pan) then loosen then retighten the motor mount nuts at the front subframe. Again the looseness on the mounting holes will allow some movement reducing the sideways preload on the motor mount.
good luck...
If your RB header hits the frame or floor you might loosen the 3 power frame to transmission bolts (2 long and 1 short) 1 or 2 turns. Then have someone push the transmission tail housing toward the passengers side while you tighten the 3 transmission - power frame bolts.
The bolt holes in the power frame are a little large allowing some movement in assembly.
It may save you having to cut and reweld your header.
Following the above if the motor mounts (the rubber part) seem a little twisted... you could support the engine (with a floor jack under the pan) then loosen then retighten the motor mount nuts at the front subframe. Again the looseness on the mounting holes will allow some movement reducing the sideways preload on the motor mount.
good luck...
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04-10-2014, 08:29 AM
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It's a 99-00 RB header, bought in 09 or 2010 I believe.
Put it up on a lift last night and pried on it really really hard with some big pipes. Loosened the flange nuts and then jacked up the rear of the header and then tightened them. Both of those methods helped, but it still makes contact on decell, any right turn, and at partial throttle. But it doesn't do it at over 1/2 throttle and WOT anymore
These pipes are pretty damn beefy, they didn't collapse even with some heavy pressure on them.
Going to try motor mounts next, because I think I need them anyways. I'll probably end up getting it rewelded this weekend though :-\
Put it up on a lift last night and pried on it really really hard with some big pipes. Loosened the flange nuts and then jacked up the rear of the header and then tightened them. Both of those methods helped, but it still makes contact on decell, any right turn, and at partial throttle. But it doesn't do it at over 1/2 throttle and WOT anymore
These pipes are pretty damn beefy, they didn't collapse even with some heavy pressure on them.Going to try motor mounts next, because I think I need them anyways. I'll probably end up getting it rewelded this weekend though :-\
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04-10-2014, 12:36 PM
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It's a 99-00 RB header, bought in 09 or 2010 I believe.
Put it up on a lift last night and pried on it really really hard with some big pipes. Loosened the flange nuts and then jacked up the rear of the header and then tightened them. Both of those methods helped, but it still makes contact on decell, any right turn, and at partial throttle. But it doesn't do it at over 1/2 throttle and WOT anymore These pipes are pretty damn beefy, they didn't collapse even with some heavy pressure on them.
Going to try motor mounts next, because I think I need them anyways. I'll probably end up getting it rewelded this weekend though :-\
Put it up on a lift last night and pried on it really really hard with some big pipes. Loosened the flange nuts and then jacked up the rear of the header and then tightened them. Both of those methods helped, but it still makes contact on decell, any right turn, and at partial throttle. But it doesn't do it at over 1/2 throttle and WOT anymore
These pipes are pretty damn beefy, they didn't collapse even with some heavy pressure on them.Going to try motor mounts next, because I think I need them anyways. I'll probably end up getting it rewelded this weekend though :-\
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