Reset ring gap before turbo?
 

Over the next few months I'll be installing a BEGI S4 set up on my '99. As the kit is currently winging it's way toward me from California I'm in the planning stages for the build.

After reading here about setting ring gaps for turbo applications, one question comes up about installing a turbo an otherwise stock engine.

I'm going to be pulling the motor to install a stage 2 clutch set. While it's on the stand I'll be dropping on a rebuilt head and gasket (current #3 plug hole is stripped). Should I just go ahead drop the pan and re-bearing/re-ring the bottom end while I'm at it. This would give me a chance to check/set ring gaps to for a turbo application. Worth the extra time? The bottom end work isn't budgeted this time around as I need to send Reverent some build money for an MS. However, since I'm in there....

Thanks in advance for any words of advice.

Don't touch the block unless you have h-beams to install.

Stock motor = stay under 240wtrq. As long as compression is equal across the board, you don't have to touch a stock motor.

yes get a new set of rings and gap for boost.

Due to the increased heat from boost you will have more more thermal expantion of the rings.

If the rings butt ends and flex you end up with busted ring lands on the pistons.

If you pull apart the motor it would be insanely foolish not to hone/re-ring and of course throw some h-beams in there. All of that is fairly cheap and would make your engine not hate you later.

Alright, thanks for the advice. H-beams ordered w/ARP bolts. Just means a few weeks of longer work hours...

It's all worth it when you smoke that minivan. :vash2:

We tend to smoke something else in Colorado, but if you're into Minivans...hey, who am I to judge? ;)

get some goddamn pistons too.

...And a sawzall for setting your end gap.:brain:

Order bearings too. Reusing wear items is kludgy as hell.

Kludge (n): a workaround, a quick-and-dirty solution, a clumsy, inelegant, difficult to extend, hard to maintain yet effective and quick solution to a problem.


"Kludgy" describes my wardrobe, not my wrenching. :party:

Bearings, rings, seals, H. gasket, t.belt, h20 pump, oil pump, etc. will all be replaced with new. Head is rebuilt, match ported and mildly polished. etc. etc.

If you are building the motor to that extent, get some pistons on that list.

Unfortunately, unless I can find a used 99-00 MS2 to run this system rather than ordering a new Reverent unit, a piston upgrade will have to wait until either OEM piston failure or the next rebuild.

Though I've heard I don't need BOTH kidneys...hmmm...

Hmm, alright. Id go for a budget rebuild in that case, but I'm also crazy.

I'd do OEM bearings, egay rods, stock pistons with fresh rings, a hone and slap it together on a budget. If you are having any machine work done you may as well go for the pistons.

Ppppppp p pbp p.

PIZTONS YOU FUCK GOD DAMN U

I rarely agree with :fael:, but you should try to spring for pistons if you're going that far.

If you do the H beams and new pistons, you may as well get the whole rotating assembly balanced.


Damn snowball effect..........

and billet gears....and a super damper...and

and and and

A BORG WARNER S366

i fell victim to their reasoning recently :-/.. except for the s366. gross.

it's no big deal it's only ~1000 for rods and pistons, 200 for arp bolts, 140 for bearings, 300 for oil pump, few more hundread for your gaskets, timing belt kit, etc... lol. enjoy the rabbit hole.

or just put it back in get a short block and have fun raggin on your motor. :fael: