Slipping clutch, What else is new?
 

So, I bought a Stage 2 XTR clutch kit from gripforce on ebay, And immediately it slips at 7 psi. Okay, turn it down to 5psi. No more slipping but it smells like burning clutch and will smoke! I ordered the more aggressive ceramic copper 6 puck clutch and going to be putting that back in, but is it possible my clutch is engaged a little when I let off the pedal and maybe thats why it will burn and smoke? or am I just an idiot? Your expierences with XTD or XTR or F1?

And I promise, I tried searching "ebay clutch slipping" but not much came up with ebay clutches
Thanks

Did you take it easy on the clutch after you put it in or did you automatically just floor it into 7psi and expect it to work. Clutches from what I understand have a break-in period.

And if you think your clutch is enabled while your foot is off of it, then maybe you should adjust it. Adjusting the Clutch

I have f1 racing ceramic 6 puck and it works great at 14 psi. I wish I had the stiffer pressure plate for launching the car tho.

it is possible it doesent fully disengage, where in the pedal travel does the clutch start to grab?

edit: yay artieparty linked to my write up =)

Okay im glad to hear that considering their similur products. Yeah, the pp is a little soft at pedal but will do, and I can push in the clutch a couple inches and be able to shift smoothly, is that bad lol does that mean it doesnt fully disengage? I would think if it was to the floor it wouldnt be fully disengaged.

there's a good chance you just need to adjust it properly.

http://boostedmiata.com/technical/clutch_adjustment.jpg

it should be able to hold a good bit of torque....

Why don't people just spend the money and buy a ACT clutch and not worry about the potential problems associated with the other clutches.

So,not only did you end up buying 2 clutches,you still have clutch problems.For less than the price of the 2 clutches you purchased,you could have purchased a ACT and not worry about it.

Agreed. Been there, dont that, with more than just clutches. that is one area I wouldnt never cheap out on, since its not exactly an easy thing to swap it out when it fails. ACT HD isnt THAT much more than alot of "upper end" ebay clutches.

ACT clutches can require adjustment too... its not like they are perfect.


The clutch should "grab" in the middle of the pedal travel, try adjusting it.

949 twins

Never tried an E-Bay clutch before, but have tried an organic disk with a super HD pressure plate from ACT and it started slipping 3 or 4 monthes after i put it in. Broke-in the clutch with the included instructions. The other problems with that clutch is the pedal pressure increased 100% and it cost bucks :( . I now run a HD 6-puck sprung-hub clutch for a B2200 truck. So far no problems. Had it for 7 months no slip, same pedal feel as stock, and holds 260 ftlb TQ all day long. I got mine locally at southland clutch in san diego for $280. This included everything New pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bearing, throw out bearing and alignment tool. Hopefully this answers your question. puck clutch good for holding TQ, organic is not. Unless you want to spend big bucks and get double and triple disk which is way out of my price range.

I think chatter is the reason most stay away from puck clutches.

Read up on clutches here and you'll find everything you ever wanted to know about them. As mentioned multiple times, you need to adjust the pedal. So do it.

FWIW, I'm running an ACT Extreme. In one word: Badass. Seriously, this clutch is awesome. It engages smoother than stock as it doesn't shutter. It engages low off the floor, which I like. Yeah, the pedal is stiffer, but you get used to it. I don't really notice it now. All in all, it's worth every penny. I can still shift at WOT without "banging" the gears, which you can't do with a puck clutch.

I will adjust the pedal as soon I get the new clutch in for sure. Thanks for the great info guys.

A proper gentle break-in period can't hurt anything... but more than likely you need to some adjustment and a bleed. This is the perfect time to buy the Advance-Autosports uber-line and never again have to fuck with that bullshit metal curly-Q line and and brackets.

Additionally... DID YOU INSTALL THE PP BOLTS IN EVEN INCREMENTS AND USE A TORQUE WRENCH? Put all the PP bolts on finger tight, then snug them down gently with a 3/8 ratchet. THEN put the torque wrench on them and snug them down in a cross-pattern at 10lb increments. If there is any uneven-ness in the PP mating surface to the flywheel, you will have hot-spots and slip.

Also, when you "upgrade" to a puck clutch, the transmission is the new weak link in the drivetrain. Harsh engagement coupled with a hi-mileage tranny and cheap fluid= bye-bye 3rd gear. At 7psi, there is NO WAY you need a puck clutch. Don't listen to your Honda buddies... puck clutches and rear-wheel drive with relatively low power is rice-tastic and nobody will want to ride with you when every shift is one step closer to needing a chiropractor.

Research clutches here... up to about 250whp, the clutch of choice around here is the ACT HD in 1.8 variety. Match it to a $50 Kragen OEM replacement flywheel and you'll be set forever. There is a group buy on ACT clutches right now for the cheapest prices I've ever seen. Above 250whp or if you've got a really torquey setup going, the ACT XT is the clear winner up to about 300whp. Beyond that, you're still probably fine with the XT unless you're into the GT30 20+psi builds... and then the ACT puck'd models and the Spec Stg III and a few others start becoming options.

For clarity, I'm running Mikef85's old ACT extreme. He was running a SC61 I believe and put like 450 to the wheels with it using this clutch. I'd say it's rated well beyond 300whp.

And +1 to replacing the factory curly clutch line thingy. I didn't bolt mine back in when I put the motor in cause I could tell it would be a bitch to unbolt if my slave ever fails. (stock slave on this car w/ 148K and it hasn't died yet! (I have a spare in the glove box))

EDIT: Also, when I did my clutch, I put the PP bolts in finger tight, then tightened each bolt 1/2 a turn, using a cross pattern until I drew the PP against the flywheel. Then used a torque wrench and did 10 ft*lb increments like you mentioned. Works well.

And another +1 to doing your homework before doing a clutch. There are a lot of common mistakes made when doing one. Learn ahead of time to save yourself time and trouble later on.

Update
 

Okay, so I got the clutch put in today AGAIN, this time, the 6 puck copper ceramic. It "feels" like it grabs on take off.... I left the boost off for a little bit and then when I put my WG back on for boost, it SLIPPED AGAIN at about 6-7psi WTF, after that, I pulled over, got the boost off and drove to subway, when I got back in i can smell my clutch and see the smoke in the radio area. Last time, with no boost, it was doing the same thing, I wont dump the clutch or anything, but I can smell clutch when I get out of the car. ANY input would be great, The only thing I didnt do was adjust the pedal, other then that, any ideas?
Thanks.

I said adjust the pedal like 14 times. How many times does everyone need to say that? It's MORE THAN LIKELY THE PROBLEM!

Dude are you kidding me? Its been said in the thread several times that is most likely the culprit. The first clutch you had in there was probably fine, the first thing you do after installing a clutch is adjust the pedal.

I had to adjust mine.

Newb,it's pretty obvious you don't listen to what people have to say,so instead of us helping you,your in for some flame action now.